I have a built-in oven from 2003 that suddenly makes a short circuit. What could be the reason? Should I fix or buy a new one? Thanks

I assume your oven is electric and not gas? If so, consider replacing the fuses on the oven, which are located in the back. THese fuses are pretty cheap, just ask around at the hardware store. This should fix your problem.

Hi heshamyg, I want to help you with your problem, but I need more information from you.
Since I could not find the electrical specs for your particular model in the user's guide, please locate the information tag (plate or decal) and tell me what the wattage and amperage ratings are.
Page 5 of your user's manual recommends that your microwave should be used on a 15 or 20 amp circuit And that a "separate circuit servicing only this appliance be provided."
I don't know if this appliance is a new install to your kitchen appliance array, or if this unit has been around and in use for awhile without any problems.
Either way, the electrical circuit is being overloaded; short circuited; or because of a ground fault.

An overloaded circuit is one primary reason for a breaker to trip. It occurs when a circuit has more connected electrical load than it is supposed to have. When more current runs through the circuit than the circuit was intended to take, the circuit breaker is designed to "break the circuit." It does so to prevent overheating of the wire in the circuit, which can cause a fire.

• The most probable reason the breaker tripped is that you simply have too much plugged into one outlet or multiple outlets connected to one circuit.
• Move lamps, heaters, irons, hair dryers and other heavy power consuming devices to a different circuit not being heavily used; or
• Turn off some of the devices on the circuit to reduce the load.
• Loose connections are another possible but less common cause. With power off, check outlets for a loose wire and the electrical service panel hot wire connected to the circuit breaker to see if it has become loose. Re-tighten the connections if necessary.
• If these suggestions do not solve the problem you may have a more serious problem such as a Short Circuit or Ground Fault

The Short Circuit is a more serious reason for a breaker to trip. A short is caused when the hot wire (black) touches another hot wire or touches a neutral wire (white). It can also be caused if there is a break in a wire in the circuit. Shorts are a bit more difficult to diagnose because they can be caused by the wiring in your home or in something you have plugged into an outlet.

• Confirm that the power is off at the outlet into which your device is plugged.
• Inspect your power cords for damage or a melted appearance.
• Check your outlets and plugs for the smell of burning- or look to see if there is any visible brown or black discoloration.
• Check the insulation on the wires to make sure that they are not cracked; and that bare (uninsulated) black and white wires aren't touching together.
• If you do not find the problem, repeat the process for all the outlets in the circuit.
• Check for a Ground Fault condition.

A Ground Fault Condition is defined as: An unintentional, electrically conducting connection between an ungrounded conductor of an electrical circuit and the normally non-current-carrying conductors, metallic enclosures, metallic raceways, metallic equipment or earth.
In simpler terms, a ground fault condition exists when the hot wire (black) touches the ground wire (bare copper) or the side of a metal outlet box (because the metal box is connected to the ground wire). The ground fault is a type of short circuit.

The fix is the same as a short circuit except check that the hot wire (black ) is not touching the side of the metal outlet box or the ground wire.

If the problem is internal to the microwave oven, have it serviced by a properly trained service technician since one could expose themselves to dangerous levels of microwave energy.

Please keep me posted. Thank-you.

Buy new.

When you close the microwave oven door, the latches operate some switches. One of them, the interlock monitor, is probably stuck closed or is out of adjustment far enough not to operate. When this happens, the circuit breaker will trip (or the fuse in the oven will blow) when you start the cook cycle. If the oven door gets slammed, this can damage the switch.

Another possibility is that the high-voltage (HV) rectifier diode is shorted. This mat be a separate part or it may be built into another piece called the HV capacitor.

The first step is determining the cause. An ohmmeter can be used to check the switch for proper operation and to see if the diode is shorted. The switch should change from very low resistance (nearly a short-circuit) with the door open to very high (open-circuit) when it's closed. If it doesn't behave like this, make sure the door latch is operating it correctly. If it is, the switch is bad. The diode should measure a very high resistance (close to infinite) with the test leads connected one way, and drop to a low value when the leads are reversed. A low reading in both directions means the diode is shorted. Then it's a matter of obtaining and installing new parts as needed.

MICROWAVE OVENS USE HAZARDOUS VOLTAGES WHICH CAN KILL YOU. Make sure the oven has been unplugged for some time before removing the cover. Then discharge the HV capacitor by momentarily touching its terminals to the microwave oven chassis using an insulated jumper lead. Some troubleshooting experience is helpful. If you aren't comfortable with your ability, be safe and let a professional repair the oven, or give an estimate for the cost of the repair. For a small countertop model, it may be more economical just to buy a new one.

If you decide to try repairing the oven yourself, be careful. Replacement parts are available from many online sources, and possibly locally if you have an appliance parts store or service shop in your area. Good luck, and thanks for using Fixya!

It sounds like the magnetron may have either failed or is not being supplied with the extremely high voltage required to run it.
Make sure the !!!!capacitor is discharged!!!!! before attempting any sort of repair.
Check the door interlock switches first then the high voltage diode with either an AVO model 8 on high resistance range for short circuit, the capacitor can fail and go short circuit, the feed fuse on the primary of the high voltage transformer and then finally, the magnetron is best checked by substitution.
Hope that helps.

There are several reasons the oven can stop heating. The most common is failure of the magnetron tube, which generates the microwaves. If you've been noticing longer cooking times, unusual humming noises or an electrical odor, these are signs of a magnetron nearing the end of life. When they finally fail, it's one of two ways. They open electrically like a fuse blowing, so that everything seems like it's working but there's no heat, like you describe. Or they can short-circuit, which causes a very loud humming or groaning noise and no heating, and may cause the main power fuse to blow so that the oven goes completely dead.

Unfortunately, the magnetron is about the most expensive part in the oven. So while it could be replaced, it's usually not economical. Between the cost of parts and labor (this kind of repair is best left to professionals because of safety concerns), it may only be a little more money to buy a new oven. In some cases, repair may even cost more than a new one.

There are other possible causes. There may be bad connections that have developed or something has gone wrong on the control circuit board. Other parts in the power supply for the magnetron may have failed. If you want to keep this oven, see what the cost is for a professional to check it over and give a repair estimate. It may turn out to be worth fixing. But if the magnetron is bad, it's probably time for a new oven.

Sorry I can't be more positive, but thanks for using Fixya!

Hi, I would not fix a 13 year old microwave...
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

I have the same problem! Did you find a solution?

I have the same problem on my oven- model JVM1640WB and called an appliance repairman who is honest and reliable (I've used him before). He said the problem is with the electrode, to fix it is roughly $300. He recommended buying a new microwave rather than fixing it.

We replaced the board behind the control panel. $130.00. If you do this make sure you can put the wires back the right way. My husband finally got it and our micro is working like brand newThanks to all who tried to help.