A defective cycle timer could cause no spin, no drain.
Bypassing safety parts like the lid switch creates potentially dangerous situations and the switch should be replaced. If the unit fills and agitates, but won't spin then the lid switch is definitely a possibility. The question: If someone unwisely bypassed a safety part (lid switch), then what else was changed? Without that information it will likely require some searching. A wiring diagram and a multi-meter are the best ways to find the problem.
This model reverses direction to go from agitate to spin. There is also a shifting (neutral) mechanism on the gearcase that might stick (requires pulling the machine apart to access.) There are several possibilities, but the lid switch is most likely.
SOURCE: Will not drain or spin
Unless you jarred the machine it's the timer. You can check this by bypassing the lid switch and seeing if it will cycle.
SOURCE: washer will not drain water or go into rinse and spin cycle
First thin I would try is to check your thermal fuse for continuity.
Its located on the tunnel that incases the heasting element.
Try putting the machine into diagnostic mode. If it won't enter
diagnostic mode, then you need to replace the main control board.
You also want to check the drain hose, the end of the hose is tapperd
and tends to collect lint. Run a coat hanger up the hose and see if you
can fish something out also check that belt.
SOURCE: Machine doesnot agitate or drain once filled with water
it sounds like a bad lid switch if it will not drain or spin,the switch controls that-mike
SOURCE: kenmore 80 series model 110 23832100 - Washer
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110+23832100&pathTaken=partSearch
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore service manuals for these washers.
WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.
See the following:
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin
gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
All told, fixing ours cost less than $30 including about 16 oz. of 80-90 weight gear oil (from an auto parts store) instead of $170 plus service for a new transmission.
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