Why does my USB wall plate charger have a plastic prong on the back above the 3-prong plug. Is it for aligning with the ground hole in the upper outlet??? Cautious.

Wall plug--get a two prong into wall socket-- the front has the holes for three prongs also a little eye you can connect a wire to and screw into the screw on the socket plate

The National Electrical Code began requiring 4-prong receptacles for 220-volt residential circuits in 2000, but it doesn't prohibit you from using your older dryer with a 3-prong cord. Instead, it allows you to change the cord so that the dryer can be plugged into a modern receptacle, and the procedure isn't very complicated. Four-prong dryer cords, or pigtails, are available at hardware and electrical supply stores, and usually cost less than $20. To make the switch, you'll need a green ground screw to attach to the dryer body so the machine can be grounded by the ground wire.

1 Unplug the dryer and move it to an accessible spot. Unscrew the plate on the back that covers the electrical terminal with a screwdriver. You'll find the cover on the back of the dryer near the bottom of the machine at the point where the cord exits.
2 Loosen the three terminal screws holding the cord. Before you remove them and take off the cord, note the colors of the screws and the wires attached to them. The screws holding the black and red wires are brass and the one holding the white wire is silver.
3 Remove the ground strap from the silver terminal. It may be a small metal plate or a length of wire connecting the terminal to the body of the dryer. You may be able to pull it out with pliers, or you may have to loosen a screw to remove it. Its function was to ground the dryer, and that function will now be served by the ground wire on the new pigtail.
4 Insert the brass terminal screws into the ring lugs attached to the red and black wires on a replacement pigtail and the silver screw into the ring lug on the white wire. Drive the screws into the same slots from which you removed them and tighten them securely with a screwdriver.
5 Drill a 1/4-inch hole in the body of the dryer within reach of the fourth wire in the pigtail, which is green. Insert a green ground screw through the ring lug on the end of that wire, drive the screw into the hole and tighten it securely.
6 Feed the cord through the notch on the terminal cover plate and screw the cover plate to the back of the dryer.

Things You Will Need

• Screwdriver
• Pliers
• Drill
• 1/4-inch drill bit
• Ground screw
• 4-prong pigtail

Tip

• There usually isn't room behind the cover plate to install the ground screw. If not, it's acceptable to attach the screw to the back of the dryer outside the plate.
• Check the grounding with a multimeter before you plug in the dryer. Set the meter to ohms, touch one lead to the dryer body and touch the other lead to the ground prong on the plug. The meter should show less than 10 ohms of resistance.

References

• Acme How To: How to Replace a Dryer Power Cord

The National Electrical Code began requiring 4-prong receptacles for 220-volt residential circuits in 2000, but it doesn't prohibit you from using your older dryer with a 3-prong cord. Instead, it allows you to change the cord so that the dryer can be plugged into a modern receptacle, and the procedure isn't very complicated. Four-prong dryer cords, or pigtails, are available at hardware and electrical supply stores, and usually cost less than $20. To make the switch, you'll need a green ground screw to attach to the dryer body so the machine can be grounded by the ground wire.

1 Unplug the dryer and move it to an accessible spot. Unscrew the plate on the back that covers the electrical terminal with a screwdriver. You'll find the cover on the back of the dryer near the bottom of the machine at the point where the cord exits.
2 Loosen the three terminal screws holding the cord. Before you remove them and take off the cord, note the colors of the screws and the wires attached to them. The screws holding the black and red wires are brass and the one holding the white wire is silver.
3
Remove the ground strap from the silver terminal. It may be a small metal plate or a length of wire connecting the terminal to the body of the dryer. You may be able to pull it out with pliers, or you may have to loosen a screw to remove it. Its function was to ground the dryer, and that function will now be served by the ground wire on the new pigtail.
4 Insert the brass terminal screws into the ring lugs attached to the red and black wires on a replacement pigtail and the silver screw into the ring lug on the white wire. Drive the screws into the same slots from which you removed them and tighten them securely with a screwdriver.
5 Drill a 1/4-inch hole in the body of the dryer within reach of the fourth wire in the pigtail, which is green. Insert a green ground screw through the ring lug on the end of that wire, drive the screw into the hole and tighten it securely.
6 Feed the cord through the notch on the terminal cover plate and screw the cover plate to the back of the dryer.

Things You Will Need

• Screwdriver
• Pliers
• Drill
• 1/4-inch drill bit
• Ground screw
• 4-prong pigtail

Tip

• There usually isn't room behind the cover plate to install the ground screw. If not, it's acceptable to attach the screw to the back of the dryer outside the plate.
• Check the grounding with a multimeter before you plug in the dryer. Set the meter to ohms, touch one lead to the dryer body and touch the other lead to the ground prong on the plug. The meter should show less than 10 ohms of resistance.

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you with changing your dryer plug. Dryer Cord and Wiring Dryer 3 Wire or 4 Wire



heatman101

Hi, and yes you can, its done all of the time. You want to change the plug on the wall, not the cord. That is the way it is done. Very simple. Turn off breaker to the 4- prong. Go to any hardware store such as home depot and get the 3 prong 220 volt female plug, both are the same volts, just made for different cords is all. The male is on the cord. On the 4 prong female plug thats on the wall, just loosen all 4 screws. 2- wires are hot, either black in color, a black with a piece of white tape on it is the neutral, and a bare ground which is much smaller. When installing the 3 prong female, you will use all 4 wire to. 2- hot, ! neutral, and a screw for the small bare ground. There will be a drawing on how to connect the wires with the new plug if you are not sure. Normally, there are 3 black wires, 2 hot , 1 neutral. Some times there may be 2 blacks and 1 red. A black and red will be hot.I am sure they will all be black. The plug is marked on it. It will have L-1, L-2, N, and Ground. When you remove the 4 prong female, it will be marked the same. Be sure the power is off! L-1 and L-2 are hot, and the 3rd is N or neutral. Then the small ground. Very, very, simple to change and to know which is which. The terminals on the plug are colored also. The 2 that are copper colored are for the hot wires. The brass or silver is the neutral. And you will see the ground screw. I hope I haven't confused you, it is very easy. Just when removing the wires to the old plug on the wall, which should be a 4-prong female, the 2 wires on the right and left side of the plug are going to be the 2 hot wires. The other large black is the neutral goes to top or bottom, its marked like I said with a N. and a small bare ground. Always change the plug on the wall to fit the dryer from 3 to 4, or 4 to 3. They are both 30 amp plugs, 220 volt. Very easy, you can do this!! Please rate me on my help to you.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

Go to the following website to view pictures of how to hook up your four wires to the dryer.
Please rate me

http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/switch-outlet/dryer-circuit-wiring-and-hookup.php

Salty The charger detects the batteries when it is plugged into the charger port. With the older chargers you could measure the output of the charger by measuring across the two outter pins. With the newer chargers there is no output until the charger is plugged into the charger port. Now on the M51 you should have an on-board charger and the cord plugs into the back of the chair into a three pronged plug. Now if you plug the on-board charger into the wall socket and look at the rear of the chair low to the ground you should be able to see a red and yellow light (red and green when fully charged). With this charger plugged in you can take a digital voltmeter set it on 200 v dc and plug the leads into the two outter holes in the charger port under the front of the joystick you should read 27-30 volts when charging and 24-27 volts fully charged and the charger unplugged. Hope this helps you

the 1103 uses an onboard charger. Charger's life span is about 3 years; some fail in 6 months, some in 6 years keep in mind. You can charge the 1103 using an offboard charger which are available for about $50.00 on Ebay. Search for electric wheelchair charger. You want one that has a 4 to 6 amp rating.

The offboard charger has a 3-prong connector on one end and the other plugs into a grounded wall outlet. Plug the charger into an outlet and the three prong connector into the female three prong connector located at the bottom front of the joystick. Give it a good overnight charge and it should be back up to snuff in the morning.

Most Kenmore microhoods use a 3" by 10" exhaust duct. Check for correct demensions. Make sure that the existing vent is this size or that you have room to adapt to this size. There should be a damper mounted to the top of the micro which will attach to the vent duct work. You will need an outlet in the cabinet above the micohood. This should be on a circuit of it's own. The microhood should have a wall plate for the back wall. I'm going to assume there are no templates available. Hold the wall plate against the back of the micro to determine the height placement in the opening. Most install centered under and against the cabinet above. Not all do, so this will confirm. Mount the wall plate to the existing wall studs with at least 1/4" by 2-1/2" lag bolts. Bore an 1-1/4" hole in the right rear corner of the cabinet above, about 2" out from the back of the cabinet and 2" in from the side, this is not a critical measurement, it is to pass the electric cord into the upper cabinet. There are two screws that support the front of the hood. I believe they are 1/4" by 3-1/2" long. If not included, check for size. The hardwae will have them, get flat washers to fit both also. Measure from the back of the micro to the mounting holes in the top of the micro, include the wall plate in this measurement, they'll be about 10" out from the back and about 1-1/2" in from the edge, near the front, but check that measurement, they vary. Drill 3/8" holes in the bottom of the cabinet at these locations. If doing this alone, best that you move the range out. It's nice to have a helper at lifting time. With the plate on the wall and the holes in the bottom of the cabinet, your ready. Put the 1/4" screws and someting to drive them in the upper cabinet, so they'll be available. Lift the micro into the opening with the front tilted downward, hook the back of it into the bottom of the wall plate, push the cord into the upper cabinet, tilt the front of the micro up until you can start the front support screws. Start both, don't let go of the micro until you are sure that both screws are started and will support the front weight. Once you're sure, tighten both screws all the way and connect the vent. Steel tape is best for sealing up any leaks. Power up the outlet, plug in the microhood and put in the popcorn. Get a good movie and enjoy in your accomplishment. Congrats. PS: Make sure the roof vent opens when the hood is turned on, I have seen them stuck shut from grease build-up.

***This is how you fix the unfixable code 91***

Code 91 is generated by lack of conductivity between plate 1 & plate 3 of the titanium plate set. This can be caused by 3 possibilities.

1. The salt is low - easily tested
2. The Plates are covered with lime scale - easily cleaned with vinegar
3. The one or both of the connections to the plates are corroded and there is
a break in the circuit

I took a meter to my salt cell ( the tube with the plates in it). The outer 2 plates should have continuity with the plug prongs on their respective sides (where the unit plugs in to the control unit) The middle plate is not connected to either plug.
One of my prongs did not have continuity to the plate (thus the cell generated a code 91 - because there was no voltage to detect.

I took a dremel tool and cut a one inch square out of the back of the housing. I then used a round ball bit in the dremel to remove the plastic around the back of the prong. The back of the plug is conneted to the metal tab that is attached to the titanium plate via a 9/32 post and nut. What happens is that water intrudes from the seam in the front of the prong and corrodes the bolt face and the tab surface creating the break in the circuit. I removed the corrosion and applied dielectric grease (used on headlight bulbs and available at the auto parts store) to the back of the nut and the shaft of the bolt and reinstalled. I tested with the ohms/resistance setting of my multimeter and found the circuit complete.
I then applied a covering of epoxy to the post and bolt and replaced the one inch piece of plastic that I removed and epoxied over the area. I sealed the front of the prongs with epoxy- there is a small area where the metal and plastic meet where the water entered. After reinstallation and hooking the machine up it functions perfectly. Intex is sending me a new unit under warranty-- as soon as it arrives I will seal the front of the prongs with some epoxy and store just in case.