How do i install an additional breaker to ease the load on a certain circuit

A 200 amp circuit breaker has a large spring to assist in rapid opening and closing a load of this size to minimize damaging arcing every time is it operated under electrical load

The larger the circuit breaker is and the more poles (1, 2 or 3) that are being opened / closed; the more force it will require to operate - both by hand or when tripping. Compare the tension or force you need to apply to a similar sized circuit breaker at Home Depot, etc.

The troubling issue about this for me is the fact that the 200 amp service disconnect / main is tripping. This is an indication of an overloaded panel / circuit. I usually see individual circuits that trip in a panel - but often find the that main breaker has only 20% - 60% of its rating on it at any given time. If you're tripping a 200 amp service disconnect / main breaker repeatedly - something has got to give - and eventually the circuit breaker will fail. That may be where you are now with this breaker. You may be in need of a service upgrade (if it is the service disconnect) as clearly, you have out grown the 200 amp size one you currently have or need add a new sub-panel to ease the load that this 200 amp main is trying to supply now.

Either way, you should call a reputable electrical contractor to have your service / sub-panel evaluated very soon. Good luck!

Hi - I'm an electrician and can help you with your question.

A BR2100 circuit breaker is a 2 Pole 100 Amp (for the part number "BR2100", the "2" indicates the number of poles and the "100" indicates the amperage) circuit breaker. It can be installed in a single phase or three phase 120/240 VAC system panel that specifically lists the BR series breakers as acceptable for use.

A BR260 A BR2100 circuit breaker is a 2 Pole 60 Amp (the part number BR260, the "2" indicates the number of poles and the "60" indicates the amperage) circuit breaker. It can be installed in a single phase or three phase 120/240 VAC system panel that specifically lists the BR series breakers as acceptable for use.

It is not possible to have a BR2100 rated for 60 amps, 1 or 3 poles, or a BR260 rated for 100 amps, 1 or 3 poles.

It is not permissible to install any circuit breaker brand or type in any panel that does not specifically include it on a list of acceptable circuit breakers.

Circuit breakers are designed to carry 80% of the amperage rating.
To determine the load a circuit breaker can carry, multiply the circuit breaker amp rating by 80%. This means that if you need to supply more than 80 amps, you cannot use a 100 amp circuit breaker. A higher rating is required. A BR2110 would be acceptable for loads greater than 80 amps, but less than 88 amps because the formula above says: 110 amp x 80% = 88 amps.

To determine the breaker size, determine the load (by measuring with a meter or obtaining amp rating of the load from the data plate) and multiply it by 125%. Using the same numbers in the example above; assume an 88 amp load. 88 amps x 125% = 110 amp circuit breaker. The 60 amp breaker is acceptable for up to 48 amps because 60amps x 80% = 48 amps. A 48 amp load needs a 60 amp breaker because 48 amps x 125% = 60 amps.

I hope this helps and good luck!

No - because this will cause the electrical wiring to overheat which could cause a house fire.

This may be helpful:
Basic House Wiring Circuits and Breakers

If a circuit is over loading then it may be because there are too many devices on the circuit which could be solved by removing some of the load, or an additional circuit may be installed for specific devices, such as a microwave oven etc..

I'm going to have to ask you the same question(s) that Hunter tech service will ask, if you called them.

1. Are you certain you have it wired correctly? Hunter's color coding & installation instructions are one of the worst in the business.

2. Is the wall switch ON? In addition, is the circuit breaker for the wall switch ON?

The breaker must engage TWO bus bars in the panel, in addition to the a neutral connection. If the breaker is aligned to engage only one of the bus bars, only one of the terminals will be powered at the breaker terminal screw (most likely the top).

Some electrical panels have covers that have numbers and spaces stamped for circuit breakers at the bottom; when in reality, there is no bus bar to connect. Make sure you are not attempting to install into a space that lacks both bus bars.

If unable to get 240 volts out of the breaker without the load wires connected, there may be an issue internally with it. If after connecting the load wires, one side fails again, it may be detecting a ground fault or an over current situation but due to an internal failure is unable to trip both poles of the breaker. This breaker should be replaced.

A tripping circuit breaker is an indication of an overload. You say there is no load on the breaker - how are you making this determination? Are you using an amprobe or some other meter?

A circuit breaker with NO load shouldn't ever trip. Likewise a circuit breaker carrying up to 80% of of the current it is rated for shouldn't trip either. Circuit breakers that carry more than 80% of their load will trip - if the load remains connected long enough. This is called "duty factor" or "service factor" The greater the load is in excess of 80%, the less time that the breaker will carry it before tripping.

An example of a 100 amp breaker with different loads on it (this 100 amp value was chosen for ease of doing the math):

80 amps - never trips
85 amps - trips after 48 hours
90 amps - trips after 16 hours
95 amps - trips after 8 hours
100 amps - trips after 4 hours
105 amps - trips after a few minutes
120 amps - trips after a few seconds
150 amps - trips instantly

This is only an example to show how a certain circuit breaker might trip under a load less than the rating stamped on the body or handle.

A circuit breaker that trips with no load or a load equal to or less than 80% of its rating is most likely defective. You need an amprobe or ammeter for amp readings. If the load is found to be 80% or less, there may be an issue of harmonics that is causing the tripping. You'll need to have special equipment and qualified persons to check harmonic problems. Most harmonic problems occur when the loads are not linear device (transformers). Examples of non-linear devices are "switching" (or solid state) power supplies like those in computers.

I hope this helps and good luck. Please rate my reply. Thank you.

you have 2 circuits that feed the garage , not a problem , the one that you stated tripped often is the one we are concerned with . now do you remember which one that was , if so we need to start there . the first thing to determine is the load on the circuit large enough to to justify tripping of the breaker , breakers tripping is not always an indication of a problem it simply means it is doing its job sometimes . To determine the load turn on all the devices normally on in the garage and get or borrow a amp probe a wrap around is the easiest to use open the breaker panel that feeds the garage and wrap the amp probe around the wire leaving the panel that feeds the circuit to the garage that is the one that trips see if the load is close to the rating on the breaker , if it is then the breaker is doing its job and the only solution it to split the load . now if the load needs to be split then don't forget you said you had two circuits feeding the garage so you might be able to divide the load more evenly between the two you already have before you have to run additional circuits , tripping of breakers is not always a bab thing in most cases in my 40 years of being an electrician it is a case of them doing there job and the load needs to be more evenly divided if this does not help let me know and we will dig deeper

Yes the maximum size branch circuit breaker that will fit in a residential load center is 100 amps. I would recommend that you calculate the amount of power that you need the sub panel to handle, then add any additional loads you may need in the future. Hopefully this is less than 100 amps. I would recommend that you check with your local electrical inspector to make sure your installation meets all local and national codes before proceeding with the install.

What is happening is the white wire that comes off the breaker is probably too close to another neutral or too close to a hot wire that is on one of the other circuits that will make it trip when you use a drill etc... Check to see if the coiled up white wire off of the breaker is not near a hot in the panel. I have had lots of arc fault breakers trip for that reason.

The process contain a certain degree of risk, but if you follow all safety steps, you should be just fine. Most standard electric panels have a main disconnect switch or breaker at the top of the panel or load center. It is a code requirement. If the load center doesn't have one, then look for the main disconnect at a different location possibly near the electric meter. Turn it off. You better have a flashlight handy or a caving or miner's helmet, because you are going to need a light source. Circuit breakers plug into the load center. The electricity flows into each breaker via a large metal strip inside the panel or load center. It is called a bus bar. This strip is HIGHLY dangerous. Touch this strip while it is energized and you will very likely die. If a screwdriver you are holding slips and touches it, expect nearly the same result. Keep in mind that even though the main breaker may be off, the bus bar may be energized for any number of reasons! Also, the wires leading into the top of the main disconnect are always energized and represent a life safety hazard. In other words, the inside of an electric panel or load center is ALWAYS a dangerous place to be. The black wire to a circuit attaches to one end of a standard or AFCI breaker. The location is almost always a hole that is drilled through a threaded cylinder. A screw twists into this cylinder and tightly clamps down the wire. When installing a new breaker, I always find it easier to attach the circuit wire to the breaker before I plug the breaker into the panel. When removing a breaker, I usually unplug the breaker from the bus bar and then remove the circuit wire from the end of the breaker. Make sure the breaker is in the off position. The end of the breaker where the circuit wire attaches almost always has a small notch in it. This notch fits under or slides into a metal tab strip that runs parallel with the bus bar. This is what stabilizes the breaker. Without this secondary attachment, the breakers would flap in the panel much like a sail that is not tied down to the mast or the side of a boat. Tip the end of the breaker so the notch slides into the metal tab. You then align the breaker with the bus bar and push it down onto the bar. The tension tabs on the breaker open slightly and grip the bus bar as the breaker seats itself. If you feel the breaker seated itself correctly, simply turn it on. All should be well. Remember to follow the instructions that come with the breaker. Always follow the sequence the manufacturer suggests. AFCI breakers require one additional step. You need to locate the white wire that is paired with the black wire in that circuit. The white wire actually attaches to the breaker as well. There is a coiled white wire that leads out of the breaker. This white wire attaches to the neutral bus bar in spot that is vacated when you disconnect the white wire of the circuit. If this answer scared you, call an electrician!