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KENNY HOWE Posted on May 20, 2019

I HAVE A NEW HOLLAND BR 7060 ROUND BALER. WHEN THE FULL BALE TRIPS, THE TWINE ARMS WILL NOT DROP AUTOMATICALLY

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Jon Rychecky

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  • Contributor 18 Answers
  • Posted on May 22, 2019
Jon Rychecky
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Check the limit switch.

4 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 10865 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 18, 2009

SOURCE: hay baler twine double knot

Your timing belt has slipped. If you have the repair manual for your baler, this is a relatively easy repair.

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Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 09, 2012

SOURCE: string tensioner and knotter on new holland baler 319

I would say first check the twine tensioners where the twine comes out of the box it's held in. They are simple spring loaded slip tensioners, make sure both have the same tension. From there check all the twine passages for rust or servos

jfhinton45

  • 3506 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 11, 2014

SOURCE: how do I fix a new holland 575 baler hydrick leak on bale chamber

You will likely have to take it off, take it apart and reseal it and if you cannot do this have someone who can do it rebuild it for you and then you can re-install it,

Terry Corrow

johnny rebel

  • 10875 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 15, 2015

SOURCE: Twine arms dont fall when time to start baling

grease them

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0helpful
1answer

Fixing net wrap slicer on 688 new holland baler

When a New Holland round baler knife doesn't cut the net wrap, there are a few possible issues. First make sure that the net wrap is correctly threaded through the baler. Check that the knife is really sharp. Next make sure that the net wrap brake is tight to the wrap; the springs that could stretch out and not hold the brake properly. Make sure that the actuator is moving properly; lubricate the hinge points of your knife mechanism. If the problem happens after you've been baling for a while, check for debris blocking the mechanism. Check for damage to the electrical system if the actuator isn't moving.

On an older NH 853 baler, we found that the operator had to throttle down the tractor RPM between wrapping and cutting to get the net wrap to cut properly.

I hope these ideas help. If not, please add a comment with more details on the problem. Is the wrap tearing and not feeding all the way across the roll? Are you getting a "Not wrapped" error? Are you seeing the net wrap continuing out the tail gate when the bale is ejected?

Cindy Wells
(I had the fun job of driving along side the baler when a new operator was learning to use the 853 baler. I caught and stopped the operation for the two errors that didn't show up on the Bale Command.)
0helpful
1answer

Twine running over end of bale

The twine arm has to be adjusted If this can't be done maybe the twine arm is bent and needs to be re-shaped so it does not go off the end. But first check the adjustment. It should be in your operators manual
May 20, 2015 • Garden
0helpful
1answer

String tensioner and knotter on new holland baler 319

I would say first check the twine tensioners where the twine comes out of the box it's held in. They are simple spring loaded slip tensioners, make sure both have the same tension. From there check all the twine passages for rust or servos
Jul 09, 2012 • Garden
1helpful
1answer

The shear pins on the rake keep breaking on a 853 NEW HOLLAND ROUND BALER. What is ?

Do you mean the driveline protection shear pin (pickup, roll the bale and wrap it) or the overfill protection shear pin?

For the driveline shear pin, check the type of pickup that you have. Make sure that you have the correct shear pin for the pickup (wide or regular). Also check the year of your baler, there are substitute shear bolts available that do not work on a range of the 853 baler. New Holland has a parts list for the baler on their site. Start at http://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/ and use the Look up parts by equipment on the left of the page or see your manual. Next check the air bag pressure. (Make sure that you are in the operating range with a regular pressure gauge. It's possible for the gauge on the baler to read low.) If the pressure is out of the operating range, the roller bars can hit other parts of the baler and cause the shear pin to break.

If your baler uses net wrap, make sure that the wrap isn't caught in the unit. (If the knife doesn't cut the net wrap, it will get caught in the tailgate and the rest of the baler. If it tears in use, it may wrap around the pickup and cause the shear pin to break.) This may apply to twine as well but I do not have experience with it happening with the twine tied 853 baler.)

For the rest of the checks, you will have to remove any bale that is in the baler. If it is large enough it may roll out even if it isn't wrapped when the tailgate is up (try driving up hill). Otherwise, you need to pull, cut or pry the bale out. Standing on the kicker can help the bale roll out if sufficient weight is added. We've found that a spare bale spear works well. Removing the hay in small sections can also work.

What is the moisture of the bale? If the bale is too wet, it will be too heavy and shear the pin before the bale chamber is full.

Next check all of the roller bars in the unit. If any are bent significantly, that one can hit another part of the baler and break the shear pin. It's possible to straighten some of the bars out depending on the damage. If the bar is S-shaped or severely bent, replace it. (Your New Holland parts store may have someone who will demonstrate the technique for bar straightening. It involves hammering the bar straight when it is securely held in a vise. If you can hold the bar safely, I've also seen a bucket on a front-loader straighten the bars.) If a rock gets past the windrow guard, the bars can get bent.

Check that the chains are centered and that none of the gears are shifted to narrow or wider paths in a spot. (There are bars that can be adjusted between two sets of gears near the top front of the baler. Loosen the four bolts and push the parts closer or pull them farther apart.) Check that none of the bearings for the apron motion are frozen or damaged. Replace or repair anything that is damaged.

Do not make the bales too large or uneven. (If you have a Bale Command unit on the baler, it is easier to control the even formation of the bale.)

For the overfill protection, make sure to reset the unit after replacing the shear pin. It can be tough to pull the trip arm fully back. Make sure that nothing is in the tailgate. If your baler has a kicker, make sure that that the two springs on the sides are undamaged and holding the kicker level.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells
(my 853 baler with the wide pickup uses Driveline shear pin 46520 and Overfill shear pin 46047. I'm not sure of the year of the unit. When we got shear pins with a different number, we broke 3 or 4 in a row before realizing that we'd gotten the wrong ones; they were noticably thinner than the required ones. Roller bars are what I call the bars between the chains and we've replaced/straightened many of them.)
0helpful
1answer

Twine coming over to far on bale of cutting side

Is this an auto wrap baler or manual warp. Most every baler I have seen that is auto-wrap has an adjustment for this. Do you have the manual. If not try to get one as I am sure it tells how to adjust this. I hope this helps some.
1helpful
1answer

Hay baler twine double knot

Your timing belt has slipped. If you have the repair manual for your baler, this is a relatively easy repair.
Jun 18, 2009 • Garden
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