Iam busy with underwear making stepin type pants. I have sewn with this elastic type materail before. Will not sew it no mater what I do Viking 1250

1-get a piece of wax 2-or a bar of soap you rub the wax OR the soap on the stretch fabric that will allow the needle to go thru with no problem 3-get a piece wooly fabric wet it with sewing machine oil and set it some where on top of sewing machine UNDER THE TREAD THAT WILL ALLOW THE TREAD TO GET WET AS YOU DO THE SEWING.

Try using a Schmetz stretch needle size 11 )7015-HS)

Check with your local Viking dealer.

Hello!

There is more than one way. This is an easy way to make an elastic waistband on mid to lightweight fabric.
Begin by measuring the waist diameter and subtracting 2" from the measurement.
An easy way to make an elastic waistband is to sew the ends of the elastic together, creating a loop with the elastic. Be sure there are no twists in the elastic before sewing the ends together.
Fold the elastic in half using the seam as one edge and mark the other side with a pin. Fold the elastic in half again and mark the two other folds.
Your elastic should now have 3 pins and the seam quarting the circle.
Hopefully your pants have a center, back and two side seams, making the next step easy. If not, fold and mark the front back and sides like you just did with the elastic.
You're now ready to pin the elastic to the OUTSIDE of the pants. Line up the edges of the fabric and elastic. Match the marks on the elastic to those on the pants and pin them together.
Using a quarter inch seam, stretch the elastic between the pins/quarter marks and sew it in place.
IF your machine has a lightening stitch, use that. If not a zigzag stitch will wear better than a straight stitch, which will also work but may snap if used on a stretchy fabric.
After you have attached the elastic fold it to the "inside" of the pants taking care not to fold or bend the elastic. You have just created a nice finished top edge to your pants!
Giving the elastic a stretch so it fits the fabric, pin the front, back and sides like you did before, making sure to pin the lower edge of the elastic.
Stretching the elastic to make it fit the pants, stitch the lower edge close to the edge, again with a stretchy stitch if possible.
Next stitch the top close to the edge from the front. (I know it's already attached, but this will keep the top looking nice.) 1/8" looks nice, but just make sure your distance to the edge is consistant.
Sit back and admire your handy work! You've now got the elastic sewn on and there are no exposed raw edges.

If you are working with a heavier fabric let me know and I can explain how to make a casing for the elastic. The kind you thread the elastic through.

Are these, http://www.mysewingmachineparts.com/genuine-best-quality-plastic-sewing-machine-bobbins-4120975-45-husqvarna-viking-white/ , the bobbin you need? The part number is 4120975-45 and they are available at Amazon.com, http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/bobbins-viking-white-4120975-45-10pk.aspx and other vendors.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Set the machine to button hole and use the "C" foot. The machine sews backwards first. When it reaches the correct length push the reverse button. Then when it has sewn the left side even with the right side push reverse again.

I am assuming this is a simple stretch waist band with elastic about 2cm wide attached to a skirt or trousers. You need to measure your wist and cut elastic that length plus 2cm. Then join the two ends by overlapping them 2cm and zig zagging the elastic together with regular sewing machine. Now mark the elastic in quarters, ie hold it flat with the join in the middle and mark each edge with chalk or a fabric removable marker. Then put the marks together and mark the edges again so you have 4 marks equally spaced. Now do this for your garment too. It may be bigger in back so mark front and back, then half this to find the side quarters. Put elastic on inside of garment against raw edge and pin the quarter marks on elastic and garment together. Set up overlocker for 4 thread wide seam. Test seam and adjust tensions if necessary. Now you need to serge the edge of the fabric and elastic together, trimming the fabric but not cutting the elastic and stretch the elastic to fit the garment as you stitch. Elastic on top, fabric right side down underneath. Take out pins before you get near them! Start by lifting the front of the presser foot with your finger and placing fabric and elastic under, then start stitching on and straighten up once the seam is onto the elastic. Dont lift the pressure foot, you just stitch, stop, stretch the elastic to the fullness of the fabric, hold it and seam forward a few inches, then stop and repeat the process. Once right round go over your starting point, then turn and serge off the fabric edge and chain off. Cut, pull the chain to pull it flat and tie a hald hitch in it right up close to fabric. Now turn the elastic band to the inside of the garment. You need to secure it. Usually a straight stitch just onto the lower edge of the elastic with sewing machine from outside.

Here is the stitch selection page from your manual


I would suggest that you use the stitch called "elastic overlock" using a stretch needle, you need a ball point tip on the needle to press between the elastane fibres in lycra. A stretch needle is blue, coated with a substance that makes it easier to stitch these types of man made stretch fibres, often size 75. If you can't get one of those, then use a ball point needle, size 70 or 80.

You need a stitch with forwards and backwards movement so that the stitching doesn't break under stress. Your machine also has a stretch straight stitch and this would be a forwards and backwards straight stitch so this will work too but can look a bit 'heavy' sometimes. But even triple zig zag narrowed down will work often.

If you are sewing leg edges with lycra, shop made garments will have clear swimsuit elastic sewn into the seam using a coverstitch overlocker, you'll never get as good a result with a regular sewing machine but you can get a reasonable finish with practice. This elastic is available to buy, you might want to use the overlock stitch to attach it to the fabric edge, stretching as you go, then turn it to the inside and use a stretch twin needle and straight stitch to top stitch from the outside, stretching the fabric as you sew.

Trust this helps you a little, 4 thumbs up if so. :-)

try to unplug your machine for a few minutes and see if this helps

Hi - I think you have a Viking Designer 1, which has a slot for a floppy disk on the side of the machine. If so, you need to purchase embroidery software that supports file type .sv1, and you will need to buy floppy disks.

You can buy embroidery software from Viking that will allow you to write design files onto floppy disks, but you can find other embroidery software packages that support the D1 which cost quite a bit less - make sure that file type .sv1 is supported before you buy.

Viking does sell designs that come on a D1 floppy disk. You can just pop the floppy into the machine, select you design, and go. You can find Viking designs online from time to time, but before you buy, ask if a floppy is included - the newer Viking design packages come with a DVD but might not include the floppy for the D1.

Hope this helps, Ginny

If you have a Viking #1+, you won't be able to use floppy disks with your machine. Please repost and I'll tell you what to look for.