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I need help to remove the top pin in the cylinder rod of the tilt and trim on a 2004 Johnson 50HP.

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  • 104 Answers

If under tension make strap to fit around top and bottom eye with webbing similar to truck tie down when half way extended That remains in place until you get bolt /pin out.
If rusted in you need to use tungsten drill for masonry sharpen like a metal drill. It pays to start with one about 1/3 diameter of bolt as guide then 1 mm less than bolt. drive out with small cold chisel.

Posted on Jun 03, 2019

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 94 ford aerostar tierod

yes and the new tie rod will come with a new one just cut it off with cutting pliers

Posted on Sep 12, 2008

alicantecoli
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SOURCE: freelander tilting seat

covers come off easy when your not scared of it and make your own cable with a bicycle cable

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

wyatt1582
  • 453 Answers

SOURCE: Trying to remove the key lock cylinder on a 1991 Ford F-350

Its located under the key cylinder a small hole. Use a small screw driver or pin to push up and turn key to take out.

Posted on Feb 10, 2010

  • 62 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 1990 f250

i would definately ask a ford dealership for the parts breakdown for the column if youve never been in one but the part is available in the help section at most part stores including oreillys and autozone

Posted on Jun 05, 2011

dttech
  • 4803 Answers

SOURCE: 98 lincoln town car key switch actuator rod

Fun job. I have done hundreds of those. WHY Ford put a steel pin in that cheap piece of plastic is beyond my comprehension. However, it has kept me employed :)

Anyway, did you remove the two T-30 TORX pins that go into the tilt head? They are what the tilt head pivots on.

If you have those out and it is still not coming off of the shaft. it is probably because the bearing cone is still in there.(under the spring and clip you removed) There is a stamped-steel ring that kind-of looks like a "top hat" that the spring seats on, then under that, there is a cone ring with a split that fits down into the upper bearing. (If you don't remove these, the harder you pull up on the tilt head, the tighter the cone ring will crush into the shaft and say "FORGET YOU! I AIN'T MOVIN'!!!")
These will come up and off of the shaft with a small screwdriver or pick. Then the tilt head will come off.

Then you are only halfway there. (I hope you have the column removed from the vehicle, because you will need to if you don't.) The column has to be COMPLETELY disassembled to get that !%#$ thing in there. The shaft has to ome out of the lower housing, the ignition switch, shift tube, shiftlock actuator and all that good stuff has to come off. Once all this is removed, you must fight the little pin that the lock pawl pivots on. It is pressed into the aluminum housing and can be a real bear to get out. (putting it back in is easy) Only after the lock pawl has been removed, will you be able to slide the ignition actuator up far enough to hook the little pin into the slot that it goes in. Then you have to get it all back together.

Good luck!

Posted on Jan 25, 2012

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How do I remove the pins from the top of my power trim


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How do i remove the ignition switch on a 1991 ford exployer


Hi Check out all the information below to help you out good luck


Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the steering wheel.
On vehicles equipped with tilt wheel, remove the tilt lever.
On vehicles equipped with tilt wheel, remove the steering column collar by pressing on the collar from the top and bottom while removing the collar.
Remove the instrument panel trim cover retaining screws. Remove the trim cover.
Remove the 2 screws from the bottom of the steering column shroud. Remove the bottom half of the shroud by pulling the shroud down and toward the rear of the vehicle.
Push the lock cylinder retaining pin then pull the cylinder from the column
Turn the lock cylinder with the ignition key in it to the ON position. On vehicles equipped with automatic transmission be sure that the selector lever is in the P position.
Push up on the lock cylinder retaining pin with a (3 mm) diameter wire pin or small punch. Pull the lock cylinder from the column housing. Disconnect the lock cylinder wiring plug from the horn brush wiring connector.
To install:
Prior to installation of the lock cylinder, lubricate the cylinder cavity, including the drive gear, with Lubricate or equivalent.
To install the lock cylinder, turn the lock cylinder to the ON position, depress the retaining pin. Insert the lock cylinder housing into its housing in the flange casting. Be sure that the tab at the end of the cylinder aligns with the slot in the ignition drive gear.
Turn the key to the OFF position. This action will permit the cylinder retaining pin to extend into the cylinder casting housing hole.
Using the ignition key rotate the lock cylinder to ensure correct mechanical operation in all positions. Connect the key warning wire plug.
Install the steering column lower shroud. Install the steering wheel.
Check for proper vehicle operation in P and N . Also be sure that the start circuit cannot be actuated in D or R .


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Power tilt and trim has no electric power to it?


I had the same problem with my 50HP 1998 Johnson outboard trim and tilt. What I found, after removing the trim and tilt electric motor, was that the brush holders and brushes had gummed up to the point where the brushes were seized up and no longer making contact with the armature's commutator. Fixing this problem is rather simple. Before starting, note that it could be wise to obtain a few inexpensive parts that may need replacement: the large O-ring between the tilt motor base plate and reservoir housing, and new motor brush springs. Even without these parts, you can at least do a temporary though effective repair if you need use of the boat right away, and I'll explain how.
To get started, first you need to loosen the small pressure relief screw, to left of the larger drain plug screw on the tilt/trim fluid reservoir base. Loosen about 2 and 1/2 turns. Then you can manually tilt the engine up and engage the locking lever to keep the engine raised.

power-tilt-trim-no-electric-power-lprqsg1xrvtxvcti0x1fazpm-3-0.jpg
You should be doing this with the boat out of the water and on a trailer on dry ground. Lay out a drop cloth on ground, beneath the tilt/trim unit to catch any screw that might fall when removing the tilt/trim motor, as you probably will drop one and it will be almost impossible to find without the drop cloth in place. Looking at the tilt/trim motor housing, you will notice that there are three small screws which fasten the housing to the base plate, and 4 larger phillips head screws that fasten the base plate to the fluid reservoir. You want to remove the 4 large screws. Getting at the two screws behind the tilt/trim motor is the hard part with the engine attached to the boat, but it is made relatively easy by using an appropriate tool. I used a 3/8 inch drive socket with a driver extension, fitted to a socket of the correct size to insert a large phillips head drive bit. To prevent the drive bit from falling out of the socket, I used a dab of silicone sealant inside the socket before inserting the drive bit. Here's a photo of the tool I used:

power-tilt-trim-no-electric-power-lprqsg1xrvtxvcti0x1fazpm-3-1.jpg
This tool would have been better suited for the job if it had been a quarter inch shorter. I had to lift the engine a bit more, to gain clearance, by placing a wedge under the locking lever. For each of the 2 large screws behind the tilt/trim motor, apply a dab of silicone sealant to the tip of the phillips driver bit before removing the screws. This will help to prevent removed screws from falling, though you may still have one or both drop. If one or both fall, but don't fall to the drop cloth, use a magnetic pick-up tool to fish them out before attempting to remove the tilt/trim motor from the fluid reservoir, otherwise a screw could fall into the reservoir and be difficult to remove. With all the screws safely removed, you can now lift the tilt/trim motor away from the reservoir housing. It is fitted to the housing snugly, so you will probably have to gently tap against the motor housing a few times before it will budge. Here's a photo showing the underside of the motor, with its baffle and motor shaft pump drive socket in place.

power-tilt-trim-no-electric-power-lprqsg1xrvtxvcti0x1fazpm-3-3.jpg
If you don't see the motor shaft pump drive socket as shown in this photo then it will either be found attached to the hydraulic pump, or may have fallen into the fluid reservoir, in which case you will need to find and remove it. You will need to carefully remove the large rubber O-ring that you see here surrounding the round baffle plate. With the tilt/trim motor removed, the pump reservoir is now exposed as shown below, and you should cover the reservoir immediately to prevent any debris or insects from falling into the fluid. Notice that the hydraulic pump's drive shaft, which the drive motor's shaft socket fits over, is shown at the center of the reservoir. I removed fluid so that it would be visible in the photo.

power-tilt-trim-no-electric-power-lprqsg1xrvtxvcti0x1fazpm-3-6.jpg
After you cover the reservoir to protect it, you can remove the round baffle plate from the tilt/trim motor base, and you can remove the motor housing and armature from the base plate after removing the three small phillips head screws. Next, remove the brush holders from the base plate, and what you see will look pretty much like the photo shown below. You will notice that there is some rust and corrosion where some water had evidently leaked in past the large O-ring. You'll want to remove the rust and other deposits from the housing and the brush holders, and you can also remove the reddish-brown plate seen here to clean beneath that.

power-tilt-trim-no-electric-power-lprqsg1xrvtxvcti0x1fazpm-3-10.jpg
If either or both of the brush holder springs is damaged, they will need to be replaced. For an effective yet temporary repair, until you can obtain the correct springs, either visit the local hardware store or take apart a few ball point pens until you find a similar diameter spring that you can use. I actually cut such a spring in half to get two springs of appropriate length. Notice that the tips of the brushes are curved to fit against the armature's commutator, and when reassembling them into the brush holders you want the curvature to be properly placed. With the base plate ready for reassembly, grasp the tilt/trim motor housing in one hand, as shown below, and pull the armature out of the housing. It will require that you pull ******* the armature, because the housing's field magnets want to keep the armature in place.

power-tilt-trim-no-electric-power-lprqsg1xrvtxvcti0x1fazpm-3-15.jpg
With the armature removed, wipe clean the interior of the housing as well as any accumulation on the armature. Lubricate the bearing surfaces at both shaft ends. Clean the commutator with some 400 grit wet-or-dry sanding paper so that it shines as seen above and push the armature back into the motor housing. Now you're ready to reassemble everything. Reattach the motor housing to the base plate, making sure that you hold the brushes into the brush holders, against brush spring tension, to prevent damaging the brushes. The mating surface of the motor housing to base plate, as well as the mating surface of the base plate to pump reservoir, should have a light bead of silicone sealant applied, as we've already seen that without that the unit is prone to some amount of water leakage. Don't tighten the screws fully, as you want to allow the sealant time to cure before doing so. This will give you a better seal. When reinstalling the tilt/trim motor with attached base plate into the pump reservoir, carefully line up the drive socket of the motor shaft with the hexagonal hydraulic pump shaft so that they will come together properly. Since the base plate fits snugly in the reservoir housing, you won't be able to turn the base plate to obtain alignment. Tighten down each of the four large base plate screws slowly and equally to draw the base plate into the reservoir housing evenly, but don't tighten all the way until the silicone sealant cures. Then tighten the 4 large screws and the 3 smaller ones, and you're power tilt should be ready to go after ensuring that the fluid is topped off. Top off the fluid and retighten the screw shown in the first photo before unlocking and letting the engine down with the power tilt. You should raise and lower the power tilt several times to purge air from the system. Air is purged by loosening the smaller screw in photo #1, and then retightening it after you hear the air escape, after which additional fluid should be added with the large upper screw of the reservoir housing removed and then replaced.

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(see Figure 1)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the lower column trim panel, then remove the steering column-to-instrument panel fasteners and carefully lower the column for access to the switch.
  3. Place the ignition switch in the OFF-LOCK position.
If the lock cylinder was removed on vehicles through 1991, the actuating rod should be pulled up until it stops, then moved down one detent; the switch is now in the Lock position.


zjlimited_463.jpg

Fig. 1: Adjusting the ignition switch

  1. Remove the ignition switch-to-steering column retainers, then remove the assembly.
To install:
  1. Before installing the ignition switch, place it in the OFF-LOCK position, then make sure that the lock cylinder and actuating rod are in the Locked position (1st detent from the top or 1st detent to the right of far left detent travel).
Most replacement switches are pinned in the OFF-LOCK position for installation purposes. If so, the pin MUST be removed after installation or damage may occur.
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When installing the ignition switch, use only the specified screws since over length screws could impair the collapsibility of the column.
  1. Raise the column into position and secure, then install any necessary trim plates.
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Ignition Lock Cylinder - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(see Figure 1)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Matchmark and remove the steering wheel.
  3. Remove the turn signal switch from the column and allow it to hang from the wires (leaving them connected). For details, please refer to the procedure located earlier in this section.
  4. For vehicles through 1991, place the lock cylinder in the Run position.
  5. For 1992-93 vehicles, remove the buzzer switch assembly.
zjlimited_464.jpg

Fig. 1: Ignition cylinder replacement

  1. Carefully remove the lock cylinder screw and the lock cylinder. If possible, use a magnetic tipped screwdriver on the screw in order to help prevent the possibility of dropping it.
CAUTION If the screw is dropped upon removal, it could fall into the steering column, requiring complete disassembly in order to retrieve the screw and prevent damage.
To install:
  1. Align and install the lock cylinder set. On vehicles through 1991 it will be necessary to rotate the switch clockwise to align the cylinder key with the keyway in the housing.
  2. Push the lock cylinder all the way in, then carefully install the retaining screw. Tighten the screw to 22 inch lbs. (2.5 Nm) on tilt columns or to 40 inch lbs. (4.5 Nm) on standard non-tilt columns.
  3. If necessary, install the buzzer switch assembly.
  4. Reposition and secure the turn signal switch assembly
  5. Align and install the steering wheel.
  6. Make sure the ignition is OFF , then connect the negative battery cable.


Keep us updated about your advance.

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1 Answer

The trim/tilt on my 97 Johnson 150 outboard is not moving. Tilt motor runs. Some time ago my mechanic told me not to run the tilt all the way to the top, which is, I think, what happened. Any ideas on...


Make sure there is not a spring loaded locking lift latch engauged. If there is you will see a little movement and then the motor will sound slower. If there is no movement and the motor runs the same speed with no change you are low on hydraulic tilt and trim fluid.

Please take a moment and rate my answer............ Thanks

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