What way does the bevel on a planer blade face

try a quality tool shop or saw /tool sharpener shop
most planer blades are generic and fit a range of planers
the only thing that varies on some is the method of attaching the blades
take an old one as a sample

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Bevel edge faces up

Click on the link below to order a replacement set of 12" blades for your Ryobi AH115
http://www.amazon.com/PLANER-BLADE-SET-AH115-RYOBI/dp/B000P8QN8U

when standing at the back of the planer you should be able to see the beveled edge, the flat side of the blade should be facing the front of the planer.

If the blades are hard to remove, you will have to remove the blade clamp completely in order to clean everything up. Your blades are probably gummed up from use. If you have a small torch available, you may want to try heating it up a little, this will release the blade (if you are using HSS blades). Be carefull not to melt any plastic in the surrounding areas. If you are using the micro carbide blades you should be able to press the blades out from the side using a scrap piece of wood without removing the screws (just loosen). Use mineral spirits or lacquer thinner or alcohol to clean all surfaces so your new blades will seat properly.

http://mdm.boschwebservices.com/MDMCache/English%20[US]/t10/0000000/r00701v-1.pdf

http://mdm.boschwebservices.com/MDMCache/English%20[US]/t10/0000000/r00066v-1.pdf

http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tools/Pages/BoschProductDetail.aspx?pid=1594K

The above three links will lead you to the Bosch web site, the 1594K manual which will describe the blade arrangements, and to the parts diagram that has the parts listed and their part numbers.
Hope this is of some help!

It depends on the planer blade set that you are using. If you are using the the 2 sided blades there is a guage that goes with it to set the blade depth before installing. I would strongly recommend that you go to Makitatools.com and type in your model number and download a copy of the owners manual for specific instructions. Let me know if you have any problems finding them

You may want to go to the Forum at OWW (Old WoodWorkers.com). What your attempting to do requires several Passes. I usually Rough out BOTH Face & Bevel, then make 2 more cuts each, to get to the Finished dimensions. I usually start with a Face Cut 1st, leaving some Flats for Square then do the Bevel Cuts to Desired dimension, then back to the Face, & take it down to where the Finished product is where I want it.

Power planers are wonderful little devices that move work along quickly and easily when you’re working on such things as decks and remodeling jobs. Just like a manual planer, this planes or evens the wood by shaving off enough to make a uniformly flat and even surface. Think of it as a wood shaver or an effortless sanding tool. It can take a warped edge off of a door and make it functional again or it can straighten out a piece of wood so that sheetrock will go on flat. These are very handy tools for those who like to work around the house. Understand what power planers can do. You can use them to smooth the edges on all kinds of wood or to bevel (make a cut for a joint that isn’t 45 degrees) door edges. They will level framing lumber and chamfer (make a 45 degree angle in) handrails and scribe (mark or score) countertops or cabinets and taper and shape wood trim. They’re a very easy tool to use and they save a great deal of time but, as with any power tool, you do need to spend a little practice time before you use this on a real project. Know how power planers work. They have blades that are mounted on a cutter head that spins at about 20,000 rpm. The planer sits on a sole plate, also called a shoe, and the front and rear shoes can be adjusted. The difference between these shoes determines how much wood is taken off when it’s used. There is a front hand grip that adjusts the shoes and so determines the depth of the cut. A power planer can remove from a trace of wood 1/64 of an inch to 1/8 of an inch with each pass. Know how to use the power planer. As with many woodworking and power tools, the key to using this successfully lies in holding and propelling it along properly with the right amount of pressure. Pressure is the most important dynamic used. Stand in a position that you can stay in while you take a pass with the planer. If you shift your weight, you’ll shift the pressure. Set the front shoes of the planer on the wood before you turn it on. Start it up, give it a second to get up to full speed, and then push it steadily with even pressure along the wood. Keep the pressure even on the front knob and the handle so you don’t gouge the wood deeper in one place than another. Be careful to hold the pressure steady as the front shoe runs off the end of the wood. Change the blades when they start to seem dull. You don’t want to wait until they’re smoking or throwing up powder. If you sharpen or replace the blades, do them both together as they wear evenly and replacing only one would give you an uneven cut. Unplug the tool before you touch the blades. Make sure to mount them completely according to the gauge bases that come with them. These tell you exactly how to set them in the correct position. Know how to safely turn the planer off. When you shut off your planer set it down on a wooden block and wait for the cutter head to stop spinning. Every time you use this, check the mounting bolts to make sure they’re still nice and tight. Remember your safety goggles or glasses. Wood shavings can fly all over. Once you get the hang of this, you won’t ever go back to planning by hand.