So is half the breaker bad? it's on a 30 amp double, worked as is for years

Check your circuit breakers, they should be double breakers. Probably 30 to 50 AMP. Sometimes one side of a double breaker will trip or fail. This will give the appliance 120 volts instead of 220. The "leg" of the 220 volt circuit that is out might control the stove's display, and the oven would not work on 120 volts. If the burners aren't as hot as they should be, or are slow in heating up it would also indicate a faulty breaker If it's not the breakers it's likely a problem in the stove circuitry.

If you are pressed for space in your panel, it would be easier to free up space in the panel by replacing some of your standard breakers with half size--or "piggy back"--breakers. The freed up space will permit you to install a standard arc fault breaker.

1) Not likely the timer is problem, unless there was fire or overheating in timer box. Use nose and eyes to inspect for signs of high heat.

2) Eliminate timer as suspect:
Move wires on timer to test if timer relays have gone bad.
Move terminal 4 to terminal 3
Move terminal 2 to terminal 1
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html#T104

3) Check watt rating of Hayward pump, and voltage.
1Hp motor at 240Volt draws 8 amp, and can draw 6 to 8 times that amount when starting. Up to 100 feet, should be at least 12 gauge wire and double-pole 20 amp breaker. Over 100 feet, 10 gauge wire and 30 amp double-pole breaker is best.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html#motor

4) Intermatic T104 240V timer is rated 40 amps
Can safely handle 1 Hp motor without nearing heat-rating capacity of timer

5) Make sure the motor is wired correctly for 240Volts.
If motor is wired for 120, and 240 is applied, then tripped breaker can result.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) Match wire and breaker:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

2) 7000 watts divided by 240 volts = 29.1 amps.
30 amp breaker x 80% safe maximum = 24 amps.
This means you should use 8 gauge wire and 40 amp double pole breaker for 240volt

3) 7000 watts divided by 120 volt = 58.3 amps.
60 amp breaker x 80% safe maximum = 48 amps.
So use 70 amp breaker and #4 wire.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

ok start at the pannel is there a double breaker there
usually a 30 amp two pole breaker this is how a pannel works first breaker pulls 120 off of one side of pannel second breaker pulls off 120 off the other side of pannel if you look the buss bars you will see that they interchange from one side of the pannel to the other so at the breaker you are checking make sure you have 120 v on output of one half of breaker and 120 on second half of breaker when you use a volt meter put one side to gng the other side to wire comming out of breaker you should have 120 on both sides if not you have a bad or tripped breaker

Our 2 HP Speedaire horizontal tank compressor is rated 115 / 230 volts at 24 / 12 amps, respectively. This means at 115 volts, a 30 amp circuit breaker is the bare minimum. That also means that the wiring should be #10 copper wires for short runs, but the next size up; #8 copper wires would be better connected to a 40 amp circuit breaker. Running at 230 drops the amperage requirement by half, to 12. A #14 copper wire is minimum for short runs with a double pole 15 amp circuit breaker, but #12 copper wires connected to a double pole 20 amp circuit breaker would be better choice.

If the compressor is cord connected (or even directly wired) with the minimum sized wires, it will likely a voltage drop problem unless very close to the panel. This problem is more pronounced as the distance between the circuit breaker and motor increases, or when smaller wires are in the circuit. All the voltage at the circuit breaker does not reach the motor, as it is lost as heat; so the compressor only sees 90 to 105 volts instead of the 115 volts it expects.

If the cords, connections, etc are getting hot, it is a tell tale sign of under-sized wires and /or poor connections. Once you solve these problems, the compressor should run "as advertised " because motors usually don't "go bad" but fail all at once. Unless you have a bearing problem - or there is a problem with the load itself (compressor).

I hope this helped.

The breaker is bad and needs to be replaced when they do that.

if you have another breaker, try installing another one.(i have gotten bad ones from new all ready). if you dont have another breaker, disconnect or unplug what ever is controlled by that breaker. if it still does it while everything is unplugged/disconnected, there is a short in the line.

There is loose connection somewhere.Might want to look at the wires coming to the panel.

the kehc359jss mircowave won't start, it says "door" on the display but the door is closed.