Question about Frigidaire Refrigerators
Temp is below 5 degrees in freezer. Arm is down on the ice maker. No filter in fridge to clog. Defrosted the ice maker in case it was frozen. I'm stuck.
Did you disconnect and reconnect any of the electrical plugs? These are touchy and need to be tightly connected. Try some conductive lubricant on the connections, make sure they're as tight as possible. Wait 24 hrs then check for ice.
Hope this fixes it.
Posted on Jun 10, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Posted on Sep 27, 2007
take the line off of the solinoid valve and check to see if there's a screen in the valve. that could be plugged with debris.
Posted on Dec 20, 2008
Tube sometimes freezes because of minerals in it hold one droplet at a time until buildup freezes solid. Replace tube first. Water valve allowing some droplets through can also cause this. Tube first-less expensive.
Posted on Aug 23, 2009
5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of. after the freezer freezes again, your ice maker will work again.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
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One side of this valve does the water in the door, the other the water for the ice maker
Disregard any reference to water in door if your unit does not have that capability and there will only be ONE solenoid on the inlet water valve assembly.
If the solenoid coil fails it will not open the water source to supply water to the ice maker. This solenoid is only energized for 8 to 10 seconds as the ice maker sweep fingers (Called ejector blades in the manual) reach the 10 - 11 o'clock position during the harvest cycle. All you will hear is a minor buzz and maybe a minor thump of the plastic water line but the ice maker fills during the last 40 % of the harvest cycle.
Here is a manual you can use for troubleshooting:
Note the requirements to test the ice maker using the manual above are:
Door light switch plunger depressed (Taped down) and the freezer temp from 0 - 10 deg F.
You will need to make a jumper wire to jumper terminals T to H inside the ice maker front cover to start the ice maker test. If it cycles with the jumper the thermostat is good. If it does not cycle then either the thermostat has failed or... there is no power coming from the door light switch. (Bad door switch)
If all of the system tests pass and you still do not have water.... suspect the inlet water valve (pictured above) or the water supply as the source of the problem.
More often than not.... the real problem turns out to be ice build up on the evaporator coils due to an automatic defrosting problem. Should you discover a build up of ice on your evaporator coils do a MANUAL defrost session by unplugging the unit and directing a fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours. (Makes a water mess so be ready!) After the manual defrosting return the unit to normal service. You should have ice again within 12 hours. Keep an eye on the evaporator coils for the next 5 days because if you do have an automatic defrosting problem the symptom WILL return in a matter of 2 - 4 days. If the ice block returns.... have the automatic defrosting problem corrected to keep your ice maker working normally.
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