Question about Frigidaire Ovens

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The upper element, broil is staying on all the time as soon as I turn on the oven at any temperatures. This is a Frigidaire CPCS389DC dual stove gas and electric.

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  • Frigidaire Master
  • 30,828 Answers

Are you sure its not on to speed up preheating the oven??

Posted on May 09, 2019

  • Francois Mercier May 09, 2019

    No it is not. It is also remains on after it reaches the programed temperature. In the owner manual it is written, the upper element should turn on just 12 to 18 seconds per minute.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 142 Answers

SOURCE: broiler element not working

It's either the switch that supplys power to the broiler element or it's the element itself (probably the element itself). I'd go after that first as it's not that expensive.

It's not a thermostat because if it was, the bake element wouldn't work either. The broiler element is not supposed to come on except when in the broil mode or cleaning mode.

Posted on Mar 14, 2008

kachbibi1
  • 979 Answers

SOURCE: Heating element on upper oven of a wall Thermador Oven

The control switch may be bad on it. If there are 2 elements on the top, they both are not bad at the same time.Check to see if the wires have not burned off the control switch first. Check to see if your breakers are O.K. Turn them both(maybe 3) off and then reset.

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

jmgldsmth
  • 2005 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire FEB27T5D Electric Dbl Oven oven does not get hot

replace the upper oven calrod element it is an easy job just unplug the range turn the range around remove the back plate loosen the element wires from the element remove the element from the front any parts supply will have your replacment part such as www.applianceparts.com

Posted on Apr 26, 2009

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

  • 1891 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire ES200/300 316257123

look for a shorted bake element .. you should be able to see where it poped. ( some times ) if you have ohm meter you can ck for an open element . **** //

Posted on Dec 04, 2009

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It is common to have the broil element pulse on or they will send 120 volts to the broil element to even the heat in the oven. Some ovens have a preheat function that will power the broil and bake simultaneously until the oven reaches temperature then the broil element will shut down. If they both stay on red continuously through the entire bake process then something is wrong. Probably a stuck contact on the control.

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3 Answers

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Hi.

Since the oven has two heating elements, if the oven does not heat up on any condition, and both broiling and baking element are not working, then the most common fault causing the problem is a faulty temperature probe.

The temperature probe is located inside the oven cavity.
On most ovens there is only one temperature sensor, connected in line on the circuit from electronic oven control to baking and broiling element.
When the probe fails, it will affect both baking and broiling function.

The temperature probe is tested reaching the probe, cutting or disconnecting its wiring, and testing the probe at room temperature, with a multimeter set on impedance at Rx1. If the multimeter reads no continuity (circuit open), then the probe must be replaced.

If the temperature probe is good, then parts that may be responsible for the fault are oven electronic control and wiring. Having both elements failing at the same time would be rather unusual.

If only one element is failing, then the fault is probably the element. In that case you can test the element removing it from the cavity, and testing Ohms on the element. If circuit is open , then the element must be replaced.

Regards.

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You should not have to disassemble the cabinet, should just be a few screws and the unit slides out... sometimes hidden behind small movable pannels..

Peace

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