THERE IS POWER TO THE FRIDGE , BUT COMPRESSOR NOT RUNNING

check capacitor to compressor if ok possible bad compressor if no voltage to compressor bad board

compressor not getting hot
compressor not vibrating when running
could be a start run/ capacitor problem
could be not power at the wall socket
call a technician for a proper diagnosis and quote
compressor replacement is almost as costly as a new fridge so get a quote if that is the problem

New side by side layout is fridge side by side upper 2/3, with lower 1/3 pull out freezer
Normally in modern frost free systems only the freezer has the evap, and the fridge thermostat operates a duct, allowing freezer air to blow into the fridge.
The compressor runs until the freezer is satified, the thermostat powering the compressor is only connected to the freezer. If the fridge requires cooling but not the freezer, there's plenty of freezer air to circulate into the fridge after the compressor has turned off. Eventually the cmpressor will start again when the freezer temp gets too high.

On twin evap models, the fridge fan motor cuts out when the fridge gets to it's setpoint, so no air circulation through the fridge evap, though liquid refrigerant flows through it to the freezer evap. Likewise, if the fridge needs cooling but not the freezer, then the compressor will start but the freezer fan motor will not run.

Old school cyclic defrost systems had the thermostat in the fridge, and the freezer kept running until the fridge coil was low enough to make the fridge cabinet down to temp.


Refrigerator Wikipedia the free encyclopedia

compressors use a small start / run capacitor to start the compressor
modern fridges do not like spikes from power outages and many power boards and electronic components fail because of this and I am inclined top use a surge protector before the fridge cord plug
I went google and typed in --fault code 88-88 for samsung fridge model rf26aewp and the first site up is error codes /messages/ blinking
the site is support-us.samsung>popup>iframe
there is a detailed answer there with a list of fault codes as well and what they indicate
there are other sites that also refer to the fault that you have

2 common issue's
1. check power going to compressor (rear).
if there is power, you have no gas or faulty compressor.
If NO power to compressor, check
2. temp stat, (it's just a switch, controlled by heat/cool) turn off power and link the two wire's together.
turn on power and listen if it has started to run.
If Yes, DO NOT RUN. put back to they way it was and replace with new stat.
If No. call an engineer, WARNING a new fridge freeze might be cheaper.

have you checked the overload and starter ptc on the compressor.is the compressor getting power

HAVE YOU TRY A 3-N-1 COMPRESSOR BOOSTER|? YOUR LOCAL APPLIANCE PARTS STORE SHOULD HAVE THEM. TELL THEM THE SIZE OF YOUR FRIDGE AND COMPRESSOR AND THEY SHOULD BE ABLE GIVE YOU THE RIGHT ONE. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 3-N-1 AND CONNECT TO THE COMPRESSORS. BUT CONNECT THE TWO BLACK WIRES TO A EXTERNAL POWER(GET AN EXTENSION CORD AND CUT IT, WIRE NUT THE TWO WIRES TOGETHER). PLUG IT IN, IF THE COMPRESSOR KICKS OFF, YOU HAVE A BAD COMPRESSOR. IF IT RUNS WITHOUT KICKING OFF, THAT MEANS YOU ARE NOT GETTING POWER TO THE OVERLOAD RELAY TO TURN KICK ON COMPRESSOR. CHECK YOUR TEMP CONTROL INSIDE FRIDGE, AND THE DEFROST TIMER(MIGHT BE STUCK IN DEFROST)

Side by side cooling units usually have 2 compressors, one for the freezer and one for the refrigerator. The refrigerator compressor may be bad, or not pulling enough power, or there may have been a leak in the tubing that the compressor uses to cool the unit with. To diagnose the problem, be aware of the noises the unit makes, and check to make sure it is a 2 compressor unit. If you only hear one compressor running then your compressor is bad, if you hear one running too often, then your tubing is bad, if the back of the refrigerator side is warm but the inside is not cooling down, then the compressor is not drawing enough power. Keep in mind that the radiant heat from the operational (presumably) freezer side may cause the refrigerator side to appear warm. (usually there is a type of wire backing with tubes running along it, these tubes should be mildly warm.)

If the fan motor is running at the compressor you should first replace the compressor start relay.
If the fan motor at the compressor is not running replace the defrost control.

In back of the refrigerator is a removable panel behind which is the compressor. Listen for a hum and a click. If you hear those sounds the compressor may have failed. Behind that same panel is a condenser where heat is removed from the refrigerating system. Make sure it is clean and check that the fan operates when the compressor runs.