Question about Refrigerators
Or you have a bad freezer door seal ,the ice shoot door that is letting warm air inside of your freezer n causing it to ice up or your water spout that pours water into your ice maker is leaking, but I seem to run more into the door seal I'd bad
Posted on May 02, 2019
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Need a little more info, but it should have a removable container that hold the ice. That comes out. If it is too jammed up with ice to move it, you will have to carefully chip away at some of it, or let it thaw. Once you are able, take the container out and empty it completely dry it out. If that doesn't do it, there is a problem with the mechanism.
Posted on May 01, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Freezer compartment ice build-up
too defrost just open the doors for a day with the unit unplugged. as far as why it is frosting up check door seals make sure they are all good and seal it up well and that should take care of it.
Posted on Jun 26, 2009
SOURCE: Icemaker won't fill tray,
Was the inlet tube frozen. If so your water inlet valve on the back where the water supply comes in is probably leaking and when the water reaches the freezer it freezes, blocking the inlet tube. Replace the water inlet valve.
You can Try swapping the wires on the dual water inlet valve. Then try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker. This will tell you weather or not the ice maker valve is working and if the line is clear.
Posted on Aug 29, 2009
One posibility is that it is not defrosting a all and that the ice is building up on the evaporator coil behind the rear cover inside the freezer. This condition will block the flow of cold air. Remove the back panel to see what your have. Either no ice , light frost, partial icing or heavy icing blocking the fins. Complete light frosting is normal.
Posted on Sep 09, 2009
Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use
and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater
comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost
drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the
freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
Posted on Oct 01, 2009
It sounds like the # 4 thermistor is bad . You will have to remove the lower inside rear freezer panel ( 2 or 4 screws ) and on the top of the coils , you will see a 1 " long torpedo looking piece , clipped on , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . This thermistor , tells the maon control board , the temperature of the freezer coils ( evaporator ) and when to defrost and when to stop defrosting and turn the compressor back on . There is also a defrost thermostat which cuts the heater off to keep from over heating , but I do not believe this is part of your problem . You should also replace the # 5 thermistor , located behind the oval grill , mounted on the lower right side of the freezer . This thermistor , tells the main control board , the temperature of the freezer section .
Posted on Oct 21, 2009
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