Ge top loader washing machine GTWS8350H1ws. start button seems to not be popping back out so machine won't turn on

peter gittos

• 247 Answers
• Posted on Sep 12, 2007

SOURCE: Washing machine does not drain

does the water pour out when you put the drain hose close to the ground if it does then make sure your pump isnt blocked if it isnt then youll need to replace the pump most pumps have 3 little fins in them if you can stop those fins with a screw driver when pump is going then it deffinatley needs replacing as you cannot fix them sorry for the bad news m8

SOURCE: GE Prodigy washer

my prodigy model # GZ133379G is only going one way not back and fort and it smells let rubber burning how can I fix it

SOURCE: how to take apart a Whirlpool top loader washing machine

If you have not taken the exterior washer casing off, the first steps will explain how to accomplish this:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

Once the casing is removed, you should have full access the the washer interior components. Since you have mentioned you taken the "internal post" off (I'm assuming this is your agitator), I will spare the steps in involved in accomplishing that task.

Next, follow these series of steps:

1. Remove the tub ring. This is the cylindrical donut shaped ring attached to the top of the wash tub. This ring needs to be removed in order to accommodate the removal of the inner spin basket. The tub ring comes off by placing a screwdriver under the series of the tabs that hold it in place and GENTLY prying them up until they release. Be careful not to break off the tabs, or crack the wash tub.

2. Remove the spanner nut that is under the agitator. This holds the inner spin basket to center post.

3. With the spanner nut removed, the spin basket should lift straight up and out. Sometimes the basket will stick to the center-post and may required some "coaxing" to get it free. This can be accomplished by grabbing the rim of the spin basket and prying up on one side, then the other, in an attempt to rock the basket side to side.

Searspartsdirect.com has excellent exploded view diagrams that you can use as a reference. Simply type in your model number and look under the "Agitator, Basket and Tub" heading. The tub ring gasket, I mention below, is listed as item 6. Appliancepartspros.com also has these same drawings.

Some things to consider:

If you remove the tub ring, it is recommended that you replace the seal on the ring before reassembly. Once the tub seal is broken, it can leak if the seal is not replaced.

When reinstalling the exterior cabinet, follow these steps:

1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.

If you have questions, or need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

PS What is the reason for removing the spin basket? Anything else I can help you with?

SOURCE: how do you fix code f 51 on the top loader cabrio washing machine

F then 51 flashes when there is a motor rotor position sensor (RPS) failure. See TEST #3

Motor RPS Failure

here is what test 3 is... good luck...

TEST #3 Motor Circuit
This test checks the wiring to the motor and rotor position sensor; and the motor and rotor position sensor themselves. NOTE: Drain water from tub.
1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and check the motor and electrical connections by performing the Agitate and Spin tests under Manual: Motor. The following steps assumes that this stepfailed.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check to see if basket will turn freely. If basket turns freely, go to step 4. If basket does not turn freely, determine what is causing the mechanical
friction or lock up.
4. Remove the console to access the machine/ motor control assembly. See Accessing& Removing the Electronic Assemblies.
5. Visually check that the P5 and P10 connectors are inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual checks pass, go to step 6.
If visual checks fail, reconnect P5 and P10 and repeat step 1.
6. With an ohmmeter, check for 16 ohms resistance at the P5 connector between pins P5-1 and P5-2, and also between pins P5-1 and P5-3. Also measure the resistance at the P10 connector between pins P10-1 and P10-7 and verify that the resistance is within the range shown in the wiring diagram on page 7-1.
If the resistance is correct, go to step 11. If the P5 connector resistance is much higher than 16 ohms, or the P10 connector resistance is out of range, go to
step 7.
7. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom of the machine and the drive motor area. See Figure 1 on page 6-13. Remove the motor bolt, then the motor cover to access the motor connections. See Figure 2 on page 6-13.
8. Visually check the mounting bracket and electrical connections to the motor and rotor position sensor board. If visual check passes, go to step 9.
If visual check fails, reconnect the electrical connections, reassemble stator and motor cover and repeat step 1.
9. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between all pins on the P10 machine/motor control connector and the motor rotor position sensor (RPS) connector. See Figures 2 and 4, pages 6-13 and 6-16. If there is continuity, go to step 11. If there is no continuity, replace the lower machine harness.
10. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between all pins on the P5 machine/motor control connector and the drive motor connector. If there is continuity, replace the drive motor. If there is no continuity, replace the lower machine harness.
11. The drive motor and lower harness are good. Replace the motor RPS board and perform the Diagnostics test in step 1 to verify repair.
12. If the Diagnostics motor test in step 1 failed, then the machine/motor control has failed: Unplug the washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Perform the Motor Diagnostics in step 1 to verify repair.

SOURCE: top loader MW511 will not start.

Hi just read your posting.Now on that wash progress line of lights there are 8 lights in total.Starting from the far right what lights are lit up?Is it the 2nd and 5th or the 4th and 8th--etc---?With this additional information I can work out the error code and advise you how to repair this fault.Please reply for further help.