Question about Maytag Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The LR can means that the motor has failed or the spinner shaft is seized to the bearing.
Check the wiring harness to the motor it may be loose.
See if you can turn the tub by hand.
If the tub is free and the wiring harness is good preform the motor test.
You will find the test paper in the console.
Posted on Jul 11, 2008
SOURCE: Lr code on display
it is a problem with the motor .this is confirmed.
Issue Washer stops in mid-cycle and/or flashes a code.
Warranty Standard product manufacturing warranty applies.
Action The motor drive system experienced a momentary loss of neutral feed from the power cord to the
Motor Control Board. The neutral line for the Motor Control Board passes across the water valve
solenoids. Neutral to the motor drive system can be momentarily lost If there is poor crimping of any
of the wire terminals in this circuit. This situation could result in a misdiagnosis and unnecessary
replacement of the Motor or Motor Controller Board.
Current Neptune front load washers will indicate a false locked rotor signal to the Machine Control
Board. Washers with a LED display will flash code “LR” in the display. LCD washers will display
“Locked Rotor.” The earlier built front loaders will not display a code, but simply shut down in midcycle
or will not start.
Pull each terminal of the white wire harness connected to each water valve solenoid and verify the
wire is properly stripped and crimped to the metal terminal connector of the wire harness. Make sure
the wires fit snug on the terminals of the water valve solenoids.
A product improvement has been made to the following models. The neutral wire is routed across
the pump only, and now by passes the water valve solenoids.
MAH55FLBWQ/W ..................... Series 12
MAH5500AWQ/W ..................... Series A7
MAH6500AWQ/W ..................... Series 33
MAH7500AWQ/W ..................... Series A6
Posted on May 03, 2009
The error code you describe is not listed in Maytag's book of codes. The link below will take you to Maytag's website error code page where you might be able to match it up.
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
It is possible for the water level/pressure switch to go bad. Other cause would be a faulty selector switch. You can test either one with an ohmmeter to see if it is faulty.
You can also check out this info (copy and paste in internet address bar under a new tab)
Posted on Oct 22, 2009
The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.
Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.
The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning.
The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.
Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.
The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.
Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.
The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.
Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
From another source..."Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.
Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 (ten being hardest) I'd call it a 3.5. If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job. It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.
Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.
Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.
The instructions are pretty clear. Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer. The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier. This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.
They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board. My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor. All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor. As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft. The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together. There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish. Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.
The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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