The problem is either TRANSMISSION from the remote, or RECEPTION at the main lift unit. I can replace the remote control, but how do I determine whether the problem is 1 the Remote transmission, or 2 the Main Unit reception? Thanks
Ditto Chuck's answer. Of u get the same result then wireless remote board most likely the source of ur prob
They are in the range of $80. So not a cheap fix. I would check the age of the opener which is on the motor label to ascertain whether u want to repair versus replace.
If you have, or can obtain a second remote, see if another remote replicates your problem. If it does, the problem is likely in the receiver antenna connection or the receiver itself.
Testimonial: "Thanks, Chuck. I would have already done what you suggest, but I don't have access to a second remote. Is there a way to test the RECEIVER ANTENNA CONNECTION?"
"Thanks, Chuck. I would have already done what you suggest, but I don't have access to a second remote. Is there a way to test the RECEIVER ANTENNA CONNECTION?"
Visually, to make sure a wire hasn't come off and ensure you have 24V input power to the receiver. Also, you could possibly ask one of the door companies if they could test the receiver if you brought it to them. Another thought ... do you get the indicator light on the remote to come on when you activate the remote? You need to know the remote is transmitting.
If all else fails, perhaps you could buy a remote at a DIY store, see if the receiver will 'learn' it. You should be able to return the remote if not needed.
Thanks for following up, Chuck. The red light on the remote *does* appear when the button is pressed, indicating the remote *is* transmitting (and when I hold the remote an inch from the receiver wire/antenna the remote *does* actually operate the door.
I had the sheetmetal cover off several days ago and visually inspected the antenna wire (only about 8" long). It originates from a small 'black box' on the circuit board: The wire attaches to the TOP of that box, then makes a U-turn in order to hang DOWN. I wonder if the wire CONNECTION to the black box might have suffered when I rebuilt the nylon gears a while back. Haven't used the remote since then and probably forgot to test it then...
I appreciate your suggestion for (temporarily) purchasing a 2nd remote for testing, but I think the problem is more likely related to RECEPTION at the garage door lifter itself.
My Google searches indicate the circuit board for this model is no longer available, SO CAN YOU OFFER ANY ADVICE FOR HOW TO TEST CONTINUITY(?) OF THE RECEIVER/ANTENNA? I own a basic Voltage Multi-Tester, but am not knowledgeable in using it... Can you suggest where to apply the leads on the circuit board? I can post an image of the board if that'll help.
Thanks
Visually check where the antenna wire connects to the circuit board. The solder connection may be compromised. Also check the circuit board copper trace for breaks etc.
Metering: set meter on Ohms, lowest number. Touch leads together to verify a continuity reading. Connect one lead to antenna wire and proceed with the other lead towards the receiver. Your readings should be very low (<5 ohms) Your symptoms indicate likely discontinuity between the antenna and the circuit board. Good luck!
MANY THANKS, CHUCK. I'll try to do as you instruct this evenining, and will report back - especially if I achieve success.
Hello again, Chuck. Thanks a TON for your instructions!
I set my volt meter dial to 200 Ohms (lowest setting) and touched leads to the end of the wire and the solder point on the PC board. I get a reading of 4.2 on the meter. I also checked the copper trace from that solder point back to the next. Looks fine and got the same reading of 4.2 Ohms.
The 8" wire is fully encased in gray plastic. I stripped 1/8" off the casing at the END of the wire, then touched that exposed stranded wire with the meter lead (while touching the PCB solder point). I'm not able to test other locations along the wire...
The solder point at the board looks very strong and stable.
The remote's red light glows when its button is pressed, but the remote only opens the door from an inch or two away from the antenna wire. In this instance, does the volt meter reading of 4.2 between the end of the wire and the solder point on the board INDICATE THE REMOTE UNIT IS FAULTY?
I hope it's the remote because the PC board is no longer available for this old opener.
Chuck ==
I was convinced enough after carrying out your excellent instructions to purchase locally a Chamberlain remote 953EV-P2. Programmed it easily for "Yellow Learn Button (Security+ 2.0)" and it now works just like it should. So the problem was THE ORIGINAL REMOTE WAS NOT TRANSMITTING PROPERLY.
FOR THE RECORD, my Sears Craftsman opener is the 139.53515SR *without* dip switches on the opener unit, but *with* dip switches under the back panel of the original remote unit. Instead of dip switches the opener has a YELLOW Learn Button.
The Chamberlain 953EV-P2 cost $29.47 at Menards, and can be purchased at Amazon.com for $27.99.
Thanks for the help. I've sold my house and the new owner was pressing me to correct this. Now it's DONE.
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SOURCE: Remote will not operate garage door opener from outside garage
Will the remotes work in the garage? If yes but not outside with the door closed you might have radio interferace with your remotes. You might have to chage to a your reciever and remotes to a different brand (frequency). Sometimes it is less trouble to change out the operator. Chamerlain changed frequency from 390 (old) to 315 (new).
SOURCE: keypad garage door opener will not operate
what keypad are you using with new opener? Frequency has changed. can't use old one. you probably never needed to change things; just needed to follow proper coding procedures.
SOURCE: Chamberlain garage door opener unit-is it compatible with craftsman keypad?
Hello,Linda well this is your lucky day ,I have installed garage door openers for sears for 10 years and i can tell you that craftsman,chamberlain ,and liftmaster are all the same machine and manufactured under the liftmaster name , if you buy it from home depot it will be a chamberlain ,if you buy it at sears ,it will be a craftsman, and if you go to commercial building supplier it will be a liftmaster! now getting that out of the way even though they are all compatible ,there is one thing that stands in their way and that,s time ,For example if your chamberlain machine is 5 years old and you went to sears last week ,the chances of the frequency being the same are not good , most likely you have the wireless keypad , one way to test the sears keypad against the chamberlain machine is to locate the smart button on your machine ,this button allows for programming of remotes and keypads , to test and see exactly what im talking about take your remote and locate the smart button ,if you have three buttons on the remote press one of the buttons that are not being used on the remote ,above the smart button their will be a blinking light ,if you press your remote button you will notice the light go from a blink to a rapid flash , This is telling you that you are sending a signal for programming to the machine , well the keypad is exactly the same all you have to do is push the enter button on the keypad and have someone watch for the rapid blinking light ,if they are compatible the light will blink rapidly on the machine so all you have to do now is have someone press the smart button once on the machine your indicator light will now be a solid light you will have approx 60 seconds then to put a 4 digit code in the keypad and then press and hold down the enter button on the keypad , at this point you will notice the lightbulbs on the chamberlain machine to shut off and come back on this is to tell you that the machine accepted the code , after thats been done you can use your keypad , you can also find the owners manual to the chamberlain and follow the same instructions to programming the remote , they are identical in programing , if your keypad is not the same frequency you can also tell by looking at the frequency code on the backside of the keypad and also the chamberlain unit usually where the light bulb is will be its code
SOURCE: lights on overhead unit on garage door opener will not go off
This is not too uncommon. What tripped the breaker in your house also got to one of the relays on the logic board of your opener. The only cure I know of is a new logic board.
SOURCE: Programming car remote using garage door opener remote control fo
GOTO HOMELINK.COM
THEY MAKE THE SYSTEM AND HAVE INSTRUCTIONS YOU CAN DOWNLOAD.
PLEASE NOTE: NOT ALL BRANDS/MODELS OF OPENER WILL WORK WITH THIS SYSTEM.
HOPE THIS HELPS
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