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This is not a direct conversion, but rather an empirical measure resulting from tests.
Grams is a weight measure and cups is a volume measure - clearly there can be no direct conversion.
300 grams of steel is far far less than 2 cups and conversely, 2 cups of steel is much more than 300 grams.
All meters capable of resistance measurements require batteries to power the circuit under test and meter movement.
Some manufacturers prefer to use 2 different voltage sources to be applied to specific ranges offered. They use the lower voltage for low resistance ranges and higher voltages for high resistance ranges. Doing this help prevent larger currents (and wattages) from flowing in the component or circuit under test when the low resistance ranges are selected.
Higher resistance components and circuits will have significantly lower current flow (and lower wattages), so a higher voltage is supported and provides greater resolution of measured values on the meter.
Hi, Vanessa before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. charging problem HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR... HONDA CBR 1100XX SUPER BLACKBIRD 1998 2004 BIKE REPAIR SERVI Download... $15 https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda 1998 CBR1100XX Owner Manual
THIS MEANS THAT YOUR WAVE HAVE DEVELOP MAIZE PROBLEM OR ELEMENT PROBLEM WHAT THIS MEANS IS THAT THE MAIZE HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED FROM IT POSITION BASS ON THE HEAT WHEN USING
SOLUTION TO YOUR MICROWAVE PROBLEM
PLEASE NOTE THIS
THE MAIZE MENTION ABOVE MEANS WIRE AND WHILE THE ELEMENT MEANS THE HEAT PROVIDER
UN SCROLL YOUR WAVE TO LOCATE THE MAIZE TRACE FROM THE ELECTRICITY DOWN TO THE ELEMENT YOU WILL SEE THE TRACE OF DISCONNECTION FROM THE ELEMENT THEN REPOSITION THE LOSS WIRE AND THEN COUPLE IT BACK HAS IT WAS.
AFTER ALL THIS THEN YOUR MICROWAVE WILL THEN CARRY OUT IT FUNCTION AGAIN
PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT YOU MICROWAVE IS NOT PLUG TO ANY FORM OF POWER SUPPLY
User guide is here http://us.fluke.com/usen/Support/Manuals/default.htm?pid=37115
Includes info on how to measure voltage. For lower voltages it is simply a matter of selecting voltage measurement and putting the probes across the voltage (i.e. on each terminal of a 9v battery). For much higher voltages you may need special probes that effectively step down the voltage by a factor.
If this helps please leave feedback, if not let me know and I'll trya nd help some more!
After installing the antenna, follow these steps to adjust the standing wave ratio(SWR). 1. Turn on the CB. 2. Set S/RF/SWR/CAL to CAL. 3. Key the Mic and rotate SWR CAL so the meter points to CAL. 4. Unkey Mic. 5. Set S/RF/SWR/CAL to SWR. 6. Key Mic again and note the actual measurement on the SWR scale. Refer to the following table to interpret the reading.
1:1 - 1.5 Great 1.5 - 2:1 OK 2:1 - 3:1 Not So Good Higher than 3.1:1 Terrible
The ideal standing wave ratio (SWR) is 1:1, or a meter reading of 1 on the SWR meter's top scale. A SWR ratio of 1.5:1 to 2:1 is excellent for most mobile CB antenna applications.
Check the SWR on Channel 1 and Channel 40 If the SWR is higher on 1, make the antenna longer If the SWR is higher on 40, make the antenna shorter Most antenna's are adjustable. Make small adjustments at a time.
If you know how to open the machines and can gain access to the internal terminals and you have any kind of meter with Ohms function, check from each side of AC plug to the terminals inside the machine, obviously, with nothing plugged into the wall.
You should have readings of less than 2-3 ohms for each line and it should be even less.
Then place the switch in the 'on' position (STILL NOT PLUGGED IN!) and measure across the internal terminals.
Depending on the motor and condition of the brushes, you should measure resistance from somewhere between a few ohms to perhaps a 100+ ohms.
If it measures much higher, either the brushes are no longer contacting or a motor winding is open.
The latter case would likely make the machines worthless since most manufacturers will charge way too much for a replacment motor to make it worthwhile.
Remember to avoid having anything plugged into the wall since the procedures described do not require it.