Fisher and Paykel front loading dryer DE70FA1 has lint behind the circular silver metal plate that is inside the drum. How do I access this to clean?

DRYER MAKES NOISES.



A loose or worn BELT can make funny noises

Or the idler pulley that puts tension on the dryer drum drive belt could be worn out. If the pulley is bad we recommend also replacing the belt.



The glides on drum worn and making metal to metal contact.

The drum slides or glides support the front of the drum. As the drum rotates over the years, the glides wear out and then the dryer makes noise. Replace all of the glides as a set if they are worn out.



CHECK FOR LOOSE BELLOES inside the drum



Sometimes an item can get stuck inbetween the drum and the housing and scrape and grind making funny noises, things like coins, bra wire, nails, hair pins, etc sometimes u can just remove the cabinet and observe by turning the drum by hand or looking for scratch or scrape marks on housing.



The blower:



Clumps of lint, socks, and other small articles of clothing can get past the lint filter and into the blower wheel. If the dryer makes noise, and the noise seems to be at a very fast pace, there might be something caught in the blower wheel. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve might be worn out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. If this happens, replace the blower wheel.



The bearings:

The drum bearing supports the rear of the dryer drum. If the dryer makes noise this bearing might be worn out. Replace the bearing if it is worn out. Do not lubricate the bearing, the lubrication will attract lint and dirt and accelerate the wearing process.

The bearings TEST by moving drum by hand u may be able to feel loose or rough movement. And listen to sounds when turning it.



The drum rollers or castors:



It is very common for dryer drum rollers to wear out. If the dryer makes noise, particularly a loud rumbling noise, one or more of the rollers may be worn out. After removing the drum from the dryer, inspect the rollers.

Check for cracks, dryness, or damage and not engaging drum properly. Sometimes u can use high density LITHIUM BASE gear grease to re oil/grease them.

GOD IS GOOD !!!!

The contacts are on the inside of the drum. Two silver shiny metal strips. When moist clothes cross the strips they complete a circuit.

GOD IS GOOD !!!!

DRYER MAKES NOISES.



A loose or worn BELT can make funny noises

Or the idler pulley that puts tension on the dryer drum drive belt could be worn out. If the pulley is bad we recommend also replacing the belt.



The glides on drum worn and making metal to metal contact.

The drum slides or glides support the front of the drum. As the drum rotates over the years, the glides wear out and then the dryer makes noise. Replace all of the glides as a set if they are worn out.



CHECK FOR LOOSE BELLOES inside the drum



Sometimes an item can get stuck inbetween the drum and the housing and scrape and grind making funny noises, things like coins, bra wire, nails, hair pins, etc sometimes u can just remove the cabinet and observe by turning the drum by hand or looking for scratch or scrape marks on housing.



The blower:



Clumps of lint, socks, and other small articles of clothing can get past the lint filter and into the blower wheel. If the dryer makes noise, and the noise seems to be at a very fast pace, there might be something caught in the blower wheel. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve might be worn out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. If this happens, replace the blower wheel.



The bearings:

The drum bearing supports the rear of the dryer drum. If the dryer makes noise this bearing might be worn out. Replace the bearing if it is worn out. Do not lubricate the bearing, the lubrication will attract lint and dirt and accelerate the wearing process.

The bearings TEST by moving drum by hand u may be able to feel loose or rough movement. And listen to sounds when turning it.



The drum rollers or castors:



It is very common for dryer drum rollers to wear out. If the dryer makes noise, particularly a loud rumbling noise, one or more of the rollers may be worn out. After removing the drum from the dryer, inspect the rollers.

Check for cracks, dryness, or damage and not engaging drum properly. Sometimes u can use high density LITHIUM BASE gear grease to re oil/grease them.

this is usually a capacitor fault,is is located near the motor

too long to eplain and not a job for joe blogs

Check and make sure that your exhaust tube and outside vent are not clogged. If they are clean them out and you may have to buy and new lint screen that come with a seal whcih will solve your problem. Go to http://fisherpaykelparts.net/techhelp/fisher-paykel-top-load-dryers-us-models/ . This forum will further help you through your problem.

Go to http://fisherpaykelparts.net/techhelp/fisher-paykel-top-load-dryers-us-models/ Check posts on "Heaters" in this forum will work you through your problem

Could be that the breaker open on the heating elements. Go to http://fisherpaykelparts.net/techhelp/fisher-paykel-top-load-dryers-us-models/ Look at post on "no heat" in this forum will work you through your problem

I've had this problem for 3+ years. There are possibly multiple reasons why your dryer trips the reset switch. My dryer has a design issue with the lint trap, in that it allows lint to build up around what I assume is the heat sensor / thermal switch. It's simple, the temperature is detected as too high in the dryer and trips the switch which cuts power to the heating element. The reset switch access as mentioned in other posts requires either tipping the dryer back or removing the front panel, at least partially, to access the switch. After the reset switch is pushed, you'll need to check if there's lint built up that's causing the reset issue. First, find the reset switch.

To access the switch, there are 4 Phillips head screws that need to be removed. For the first 2, lift the dryer lid and you'll see two half-moon shaped rubber inserts at each of the front corners of the machine. The inserts can be pulled out with your fingers or use a screwdriver, gently. There is 1 screw under each insert that needs to be removed. Once those screws are out, you can put the lid down and lift the plastic top of the dryer that the lid normally rests on. It's attached on the back of the dryer so don't worry, it won't come off...it will lift just like the dryer lid. Be careful of the sharp sheet metal edges. Now there are 2 smaller screws, 1 at each front corner, that attach the sheet metal pieces. Remove each of those screws. To get the front off requires a bit of finesse. You'll see that the front sheet metal panel of the dryer has bends in it to attach it to the sides of the dryer. Gently pull at the top corners, one at a time, to separate the front panel from the rest of the dryer. You'll see that there are u-shaped orange or red plastic pieces inserted into the sheet metal sides that align with holes in the front panel to hold the skin of the dryer together...the front should just pull away from those u-shaped pieces. There is a wire with a clip attached to the bottom of the front panel, probably a ground wire...if it pulls off when you remove the front panel, just reattach it when you put everything back together. The front sheet metal is also integral to the front feet of the dryer, so tilt the top of the front panel toward you and lift. The front panel should pull away. When you put the front back on the dryer, do it feet first by aligning the plastic foot pieces, then align the u-shaped side pieces, then worry about the top corners wrapping back around so the front fits flush.

The reset switch is in front at the bottom right of center and is probably orange. Just push it and you'll hear it click. I would vacuum out the lower part of the dryer at the point, but it's probably not what's causing your problem. I've gotten to the point where I use a yard stick or vacuum extension to push the switch without completely removing the front panel. Then I don't have to detach / reattach the ground wire. You'll see after you do it 3 or 4 times!

Now check to see if lint build up is causing your thermal switch to trip. Pull out the lint trap and you'll see 1 Phillips head screw behind where the lint trap normally sits. Remove the screw, and you'll feel the circular plastic piece the lint trap sits in become loose...pull this round piece out of the dryer from the bottom. If there is a lot of lint behind this circular plastic piece, that's probably what's tripping the heat sensor. Vac it out. Gently feel around the circumference of where you removed the piece to see if the fine mesh lint screen has any holes (if it does, it may be blowing lint into your exhaust and eventually clog the vent to the outside). If the mesh is torn, I assume that larger circular piece needs to be replaced at some point in whole or part. From what I can see, the design of the lint filter and trap is ....****. The system allows lint to enter the area where the heat sensor sits.

The short term fix is to vac out the sensor area regularly and that will keep the switch from tripping, if that is your actual problem. I believe F&P is aware of this issue and will probably remedy it for you. I called them once when this issue originally happened and had to wait for a tech to come out do what I described above. I haven't called them since, but have seen other posts regarding a new part or parts that F&P will provide...hopefully free! Good luck!

The sensors are two metal strips inside the drum. They are on the right side just behind the filter. They are silver colored and have a slight curve to them. You cannot see them unless you put your head inside the drum. I clean my sensors with a non metal pot cleaner like 3M Scotch Brite. These sensors also fail if you dry silicon backed carpets.