Feed rollers won' turn on DQW735 planer. Planer belt is turning the knives are turning but the feed rollers don't turn at either speed setting. I got a piece of wood jammed against a roller.

Take it to a small appliance repair store.

If you're looking at the planer from the infeed side, there's a belt guard on the right side of the head. Remove it and check the condition of the drive belt. If it's broke the motor will spin without powering the cutterhead and feed rollers. The drive belt is still available as part number 22-563 on sites like http://servicenet.dewalt.com/ and www.ereplacementparts.com. Just put your model number in their search box and find the drive belt in the breakdown.

this is normal with all planers, when you feed the board in the planer there are two feed roller one on each side of the knives so you get uneven pressure on the board at the start and at the end of the board .when planing boards for a project always add 10"inches or more extras then cut to lenght after planing to thickness required. never cut boards to length before planing .

The feed rate may be excessive, the cut amount excessive, or the knives may need to be sharpened. Make sure the planer surfaces are clean and free of pitch or other contaminants. Check all rollers for free turning. Check the bearings of the cutter head. Check the frame for loose hardware or broken components. Hope some of this helps!

feed roller belt broke .......on one end of rooler there is a belt that has broken and needs replaced

Couple of things to check:
1. Are your knives sharp? Dull knives will cut not fast enough to keep up with the rollers.
2. What is the depth of cut? Dewalt's planers cannot plane a board to excessive depths.
3. Are you rollers clean? Dirt, pitch or possibly grease could affect your feed rate.
4. The belt/chain for your rollers engaged or are they slipping? Open up the planer and check for wear or possibly broken belt/chain.
Snipe is usally caused by improper support while exiting the planer. Use outfeed rollers set to the correct height. Also chek that you outfeed bed is aligned with the bed of the planer.
Hope that helps,

The Scheppach hms 260 planers and others are very like each other. Ask the distributor for a manual it is very good and gives loads of setup info on belt tightening setting up the cutters greasing the needle rollers 8-9 needle rollers etc. I stripped mine last summer I searched the web and found there are detailed manuals with useful annotations added.

To your question the motor provides belt driven power. the rubber rollers for the timber feed mechanism is chain and gear driven and the cutter head is belt driven with a tiny belt.
the motor belt tension is gravity Assisted in that you slacken the motor mount and the weight of the motor pivots and takes the slack out of the belt. so slacken off the motor mount from the side of the planer you can see the vertical slot with a nut in it in the picture below beneath the letter h in sheppac. Tilt the planer and rest it 45degrees or more against something substantial, it is very heavy. Access to the motor and belt is from the base lift and rotate the motor after slackening that bolt, remove the belt and try the motor without any load. If you wanted you could disengage the feed Rollers drive by turning the drive feed lever from Ein to Aus (on to off) as in the photo below but it is simple though a little awkward to remove the Motor belt
so unless there are some seized bearings a broken and jammed feed roller chain I'd suspect a faulty motor start capacitor or the like. Then if you have a faulty motor you're already most of the way through removing it! Check the roller feed, cutter head drive mechanism by removing that blue cover visible in the photo. Exceedingly unlikely to be the cutter head seizing but the rubber rollers run in plain bearings and are very difficult to lubricate. could be the chain tensioner mechanism that has broken or the chain but that is easily checked with a 10mm spanner and an Allan key to remove the feed mechanism lever.and the blue plastic cover

I use denatured alcohol to clean the rollers on my Makita, and it doesn't seem to have harmed them over the years, but I do this infrequently. If your rollers are coated with pitch and or chips they won't feed well, no matter how they're adjusted.
(I don't think this planer has the capability to adjust the spring tension on the rollers, but I could be wrong.) You can consult the manual online at http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/Products/DocumentView.aspx?productid=22538&typeId=7605&documentId=21151
If you can attach dust collection to the planer it will probably help.
Also, the direction of the grain makes a difference when trying to plane boards as dense as poplar, (which has a kind of weedy, roey grain sometimes, that would prefer to tear out.)
For example, if you were feeding the board from right to left of the page, the grain on the side of the board should look like this//////// instead of this\\\\\\, which will have a tendency to tear out and jam the planer. If you can make sure the boards feed through in the right direction, this may solve your problems.
I heartily recommend the wax, as well. And possibly compressed air with a nozzle to blow chips aside.
Also consider the length of the boards and the effect of the drop weight on the planer's rollers if there is not an extension roller in place (or a worker) to hold the board as it makes its pass through the machine.
If you feed the board with the cup side down to begin with, taking light passes to smooth the top face, then flipping it over end over end and feeding the other side in the opposite direction, flattening first one face, then the other, you might have better luck.
Aside from all this, a surface planer isn't a jointer, which is designed to straighten & flatten boards, and portable planers in general won't perform as well as industrial models of the same capacity.
If you will continue to be running a lot of stock through your machine, you might want to consider investing in a used 13" Rockwell or Delta or some such cast iron planer, with rollers top and bottom to facilitate movement of course material. They aren't as portable, but might save time in the long run.
On a final note, there's no replacement for sharp knives. Even the best planer won't drive stock well when the knives get dull.
Best of luck!

Researching Your Model. The Rollers are Chain Driven, but this Planer is a V-Belt Drive. Any slippage of Your Belt? Are the Chains Loose?? (there's a Drive Chain on one Side, and a Driven Chain on the Other Ends of the Feed Rollers) Never Hurts to apply a "Light" Coat of Chain Lube to these Parts(Gears & Chains)
DO NOT SAND THE ROLLERS!! Cleaning them with Denatured Alcohol is OK ( I prefer Brake Parts Spray Cleaner Myself)...the Planer Knife Head & the Front & Rear Rollers all work together as a Unit.
What Thickness are You Trying to Remove?? Usually I don't like removing More than 1/32" per pass...
Have you contacted DeWalt Service?

I had the same problem...sometimes you have to take the smallest amount off (1/64th) and it might work, otherwise your blades are probably dull. Try to feed the boards through the planer towards the sides, not just the center so they wear evenly across the length of the blades. They wear out very quickly, which makes this planer very frustrating. If you take the top cover off and inspect them, you'll probably see nicks in them and it's time to replace or rotate them. Each blade has two sides you can remove all the screws using the T-handle wrench from the top cover and flip them. Also, as the blades begin to wear, the planer will become louder and louder. That's another way to tell. When you install new blades notice how much quieter it is when you plane boards.