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Sherrie Geeting Posted on Apr 07, 2019
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We have an EC79 Hitachi air compressor. The pressure relief is supposed to stop automatically when full, but this one turns ON and lets the air out. Once it opens, we have to turn the Hitachi off.

Basically, I need to know where the pressure valve is physically located inside the compressor. It needs to be removed and replaced with a new one.

2 Answers

rick rhymer

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  • Contributor 64 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 07, 2019
rick rhymer
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If u are talking about the bleed off that blows when the compressor shuts off. It should blow down for a short period then stop. If it dont stop your tank check valve is bad.

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  • Hitachi Master 7,121 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 07, 2019
Steve Pack
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Relief valve is bad (most probable).
https://www.amazon.com/Vixen-Horns-Safety-Valve-VXA7145/dp/B073X3SQ2K

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 89 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 27, 2009

SOURCE: champion vr3-8 auto drain blowing out when compressor turns off

IS YOUR TUBING CLOGGED, PINCHED OFF OR MAYBE DIRT-DOBBER NEST IN IT. THE WATER AND AIR IS SUPPOSED TO COME OUT THE SMALL TUBE POINTING DOWNWARDS BUT SOME EXCESS AIR MAY COME OUT THE SILVER VALVE ON TOP. THIS IS THE EXCESS AIR WHEN IT IS UNLOADING AND THE SILVER VALVE IS BASICALLY A TIMER. YOU CAN ADJUST THE DURATION OF THE BLOW DOWN TIME BY LOOSENING THE THIN JAM NUT AND SCREWING IT IN OR OUT. DO NOT BLOCK THE SMALL TUBING OR PINCH IT SHUT, YOUR COMPRESSOR CANT UNLOAD AND WILL START HARD. DONT REPLACE THE WHOLE DRAIN BECAUSE THIS AUTO DRAIN TAKES A REBUILD KIT THAT COSTS AROUND 20.00 TO 25.00 AND IS VERY SIMPLE TO REBIULD. YOU CAN CONTACT ME FOR PARTS, PRICING AND INFO AT [email protected] OR WWW.CANDAEQUIPMENT.NET

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Anonymous

  • 8 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 01, 2009

SOURCE: The compressor relief valve keeps popping, compressor runs

What pressure is it popping off at? You might have to adjust the pressure switch to a lower setting.

John Trevino

  • 1420 Answers
  • Posted on May 06, 2009

SOURCE: Dewalt 4 gal air compressor will not build pressure in take.

The bleed valve is an unloader of sorts that allows the compressor to start with-out a load. It closes when the pressure in the airline reaches about 20-25lbs with good volume. If air volume is not sufficient, the valve will not close. To solve the problem lets do a few tests. A long cord will reduce power and reduce air volume. Try powering the compressor with-out extension cord. If bleed valve closes when you do not use a cord, the compressor is not getting enough voltage, use shorter cord of the 12 gauge quality and more hose to reach work. If valve still does not close, check for air leaks on all fittings including around pressure switch and drain valve with soapy water. Repair as necessary and retest. If no leaks were found, temporarily plug bleed valve port with screw/bolt and run compressor till set pressure cut-off while counting minuites/seconds. The compressor should fill and shut off within three minutes or so. If it takes an unusually long time to fill, then the reed valves /valve plate is worn and leaking pressure back into cylinger. Leaking valves will usually result in very hot discharge airline/air. Reinstall the bleed valve after test. Parts and partslist are available at www.toolpartsdirect.com . Good luck on the repair and email if you have other questions.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jul 10, 2009

SOURCE: install reed valves hitachi air compressor need pics

I believe in your model of air compressor, when you take apart the head portion to your compressor you should have four reed valves. When you have it apart, there should be two "grooves" on the bottom "plate" and two "grooves" on the top plate (where the reed valves go). the bottom part is easy (as you should already know) to set in the reed valves, but as i have also found out, as you probably have, that its a little more difficult to line up the other reed valves to thier "grooves" on the upper "plate". What you do to make sure that they stay in place is dab a little oil or grease on the reeds and place them in the upper "plate grooves" and carefully set the upper plate back in place where it goes on the compressor. It will hold them in place long enough to install it on the compressor and the small amount of grease that was there will quickly be burned up with no effect to the opperation to the machine.
Sorry, long winded explanation. hope this helps and if it didnt get to you soon enough i hope it helps out in the future. :-D

Anonymous

  • 41 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 30, 2010

SOURCE: My Hitachi EC12 builds pressure, shuts off, then air escapes

the problem is in the check valve where air enters the tank.when leaking it lets air pressure up to the air piston causing the motor to stall upon restart.replace check valve.average cost of part 15 to 30 dollars.simple fix

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0helpful
1answer

I have an Airmaster Tiger 14/60, it will not charge beyond 4.5 bar, it can be completely empty but still have to be switched back on.

Trying to follow you.
A solenoid valve between the pump heads and the air storage tank. This is to enable the compressor to run or stop? The air supply from the tank stays open to air outlet(s).
A Clarke power supply switches the main power on or off.
The compressor initially runs to 3.4 bar, shuts off and will not restart until the Clark switch is opened and closed again. Correct?
The pressure control switch is valved off to the air tank or to the pump heads?
Is this a new setup, or is existing and worked before?

Normally, there are two ports before the check valve and two ports after the check valve, all on the check valve device screwed on to the air tank inlet.
Before the check valve, one tube goes to the pumps and the other to the pressure switch relief valve. The pressure switch will activate the relief valve when the preset tank pressure is satisfied, this drains and reliefs the pumps pressure making them ready to restart under no pressure. There should be no solenoid valves here.
After the check valve, ported is a tube to the pressure switch, the switch operates on this pressure, tank pressure, the tank is also on this port side, after the check valve.
The pressure switch has a cover, under the cover is a set of electric contacts, a operating pressure adjustment nut pushing on a coil spring. Loosening the spring tension lowers the operating pressure, tightening the tension of the spring raises the operating pressure. This is the adjuster of the tank pressure. The only leaking of air should be, after the pressure is satisfied, when the pressure relief valve is activated by the satisfied pressure switch. Any other leaks are considered leaks.
To remotely control the compressor to run/stop, a solenoid valve can be installed on the air tank outlet, or a switch (or timeclock) connected in series with the pressure switch contacts and power supply.
For finishing touch, I recommend you install an automatic electronic timed drain valve to drain water out of the air tank, beats doing it manually, plumbing required.


0helpful
2answers

Air compressor won't automatically cut off with selected pressure is reached. Keeps going until emergency value is released

You probably have a faulty pressure regulator. Try turning back the regulator valve to lower the cut-off pressure and see if that stops the compressor. If it doesn't, it's probably the regulator. Hope this helps.
0helpful
1answer

My compressor is building to much pressure and blowing out the relief valve. what do I check

You didn't give the model of your compressor so, for an electric model: Check your gages while the tanks are filling. If the pressure gets to the rated high pressure level for your model and keeps going until the relief valve pops, the problem is with the pressure switch. It isn't turning the motor off when it's supposed to. If the relief valve pops before getting to the max pressure the tanks are supposed to be at then the spring in the valve is broken or weakened to where it pops too early. Replace the relief valve.
6helpful
3answers

I have a C2006 Type 4 Porter Cable pancake compressor which will build pressure all the way up to 150psi then cut off as it should but there will be a loud hissing and pressure drop until the cut on...

first you have a reciprocating pump and the hissing you ear probably comes from the unloading valve on the pressure switch(it will look like a bike tire valve)if there is air coming out the valve when the compressor is off it probably means you have a bad check valve.This valve is use to unload the pressure inside the pump for an easy start .a motor always drive more amps on start up if you cant unload this pressure you will trip the overload(you probably have a reset button on your motor)check the specs on your pressure relief valve ,its a small pump maybe its just adjusted to high.in this case your pressure relief valve will open .If the pressure is fine and there is air coming out the relief valve then you have to replace it!to adjust your pressure turn the screw on your pressure switch clockwise to increase and counterclockwise to decrease .usually you have a 30 psi between cut-in and cut-off called the pressure differential.It can be adjusted on some pressure switch.be sure you put some teflon tape on the treads if you replace something to avoid air leaks.hopes this help!
0helpful
1answer

With full tank of air, compressor turns over slow then kicks out motor reset button

Hi, my name is John. Welcome to FixYa. Check your pressure switch, it,s only supposed to build up to 135 psi and shut off, then back on when the pressure gets below 105 psi, check the oil level. thanks for choosing FixYa. ..John
0helpful
1answer

Will not contain air in tank so has to keep pumping

Hi,
The relief valve often goes bad and will leak by so that the air will not stay in... this is a safety valve so do not just plug it off....find a proper replacement part and then replace the old one...

heatman101
1helpful
1answer

COMPRESSOR RUNS, FILLS TANK, AND THEN LEAKS OFF ALL THE PRESSURE. WHAT IS GOING ON?

Is the air "leaking" from the pressure relief valve? If so it is either faulty or it is doing what is supposed to do. The pressure relief valve is there in case the pressure switch fails.The tank could blow up if the pressure switch fails, so the pressure relief valve is there as a secondary measure to insure the tank does not receive too much air pressure. Assuming your gauge is operating properly, watch the gauge to see if it reaches the maximum pressure (check your manual to find the maximum PSI) or if it goes over the maximum pressure. If it goes over the maximum pressure then replace the pressure switch. If it the motor stops at the maximum pressure, replace the pressure relief valve.
2helpful
1answer

Compressor runs fine builds up pressure then will not auto cut off, relief value bows off and compressor continues to run until I manuelly cut it off then back on

PRESSURE SWITCH IS BAD. NOT ADJUSTED CORRECTLY, POINTS ARE STUCK/WELDED TOGETHER OR THE NIPPLE UNDER IT IS CLOGGED. DRAIN PRESSURE AND REMOVE PRESSURE SWITCH. KNOW YOUR UNITS PSI AND TAKE THE SWITCH WITH YOU TO MATCH. IF YOU WANT TO INVESTIGATE FURTHER BEFORE YOU BUY, LOOK IN THE SIDE OF THE SWITCH AND YOU WILL SEE THE POINTS. THEY SHOULD BE TOUCHING WHEN ITS SUPPOSED TO RUN AND SEPERATED WHEN ITS SUPPOSED TO CUT OFF. HOPE THIS HELPS, JODY
0helpful
1answer

Cant set my compressor to automatic start/stop mode

Sorry, what do you mean it 'blows off',, the relief valve is letting off pressure ? Sounds like you need to replace it with the proper psi Relief valve or just a new one. Then you say it restarts but in your question you say 'Cant set my compressor to automatic start/stop mode' If it is restarting that means it is automatically 'stopping' then automatically 'starting' Please clarify your question.
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