I have a KRUPS Blender 577 and needs its bottom seal (rubber) replaced, where can I get or order it? I am based here in the Philippines.

Try 021 0663143

take a flat head screw drive to the bottom of the blender and us it to hold the blender shaft in place while you turn the gear by hand or with a plyers (it is reverse threaded) and it should spin right off. when you get the new on it should spin right on.

Krups Blender 577 - first try not easy but next time it will be.
Replacing the rubber coubling is extremely difficult with this model.
After almost destroying the air in/outtake grill on the side in pursuit of a good lock of the axe I tried so hard to use a nose plier to grab the post and unscrew the coupling counter-clockwise but it just did'nt fit (it needs to be long and narrow/needle like). So I ended up cutting off more rubber on the coupling and also cutting of plastic from the black plastic cover which is just under the rubber coupling. In the end I was able to cut that plastic so that I could actually take off the whole casing (you need a torx 20 with a hole in it)with the rubber coupling still attached and detach two power cables so that I had much more space to properly grab the post and then it was very very easy to unscrew it counter-clockwise. But up until then I lost my insanity twice :-).
The next time it will be easy.

Look up
http://www.abtecparts.com/index.htm
They have spare parts for many Krups appliances
Caz

This place has spare parts in the U.S.

http://www.abtecparts.com/index.htm

They deliver worldwide. I am in Australia and just ordered the rubber ring and on the list there was the glass jug.

Like you, I am all for repairing and keeping the world free of blenders that only need one part replaced. The rubber coupling was easily ordered online, the challenge I later found was to remove it without losing my sanity. After messing up the side grill of the blender pretty good, I realized there is an opening on the motor casing that allows access to a "gear" that is firmly attached to the axle where our little friend will hopefully screw on and restore the contraption to a working state. In order for you to see (which I must warn you, it's not much of a view) through the grill you will need a flashlight or book light. Towards the top of the aforementioned gear (not the rubber part) there is a groove in which a flat screwdriver can easily fit immobilizing the axle and allowing you to easily unscrew it. Oh, but wait, I forgot this is the faulty part and it will spin without the slightest torque on the axle thus never loosening or getting it unscrewed. My solution to this problem was to surgically remove as much rubber as possible to allow me to attach my vise grip to the nut and finally put this thing out of its misery. Using the same procedure of inserting the screwdriver to immobilize the axle I was able to screw the new part and voila the blender is fixed!!!!

I carved off the rubber with a knife; inserted a flathead screwdriver throught the slot in the bottom to hold the gear in place; using pliers I unscrewed (COUNTERCLOCKWISE) the rubber gear.

Ed,

The problem I had was removing the grey rubber drive. The solution is that it screws off not pops off. The trick is to use narrow needle nose pliers to grab the post that attaches to the motor and turn the rubber drive counter clockwise. Removing the motor becomes easy. Pull out the 4 rubber feet under the base and the screws will be exposed. However my situation was the grey drive gear was stripped and would bottom out. My solution was to use a same size lock washer as the washer between the post and the drive. So far so good! If it fails I will need to buy another grey drive. Myron

Mine did the same thing. I am ordering a new one from America for around $5.
http://www.abtecparts.com/index.htm

I am in Australia and they deliver worldwide.

Caz

Repairing the blender:
My guess: You worked the motor too hard on your last blending session and it overheated. That will cause a thermal fuse inside to cut off. The blender won't work again until you replace the fuse but otherwise it should be fine. The fuse looks like a white diode and it will be attached tightly to the motor with a nylon strap (so that it can pick up the heat of the motor). The leads to the fuse are shielded with heat resistant nylon wrap. You will need to remove the rubber drive gear in order to remove the plastic house so you can work, although if you are really handy you might be able to at least test the unit by only removing the plastic bottom on the base unit.

To remove the plastic housing, remove the little rubber feet and then remove all of the screws on the bottom of the unit. You may need to buy a bit set for tamper resistant screws (I ***hate*** those), I don't remember. When the bottom is removed, you will see that the there is a screw head on the bottom of the central motor shaft. You can use a screw driver here to hold the motor from turning, then you can carefully use a pliers to unscrew the rubber drive gear on the top of the base unit (try not to damage the rubber). With the gear removed you can get access to the wires.

To test the fuse unit, just check its continuity. Short=good, open=bad. To further test, short out the fuse with a jumper cable and your blender should work.

EPO (Electronics Parts Outlet) in Houston, TX, has the replacement fuse unit. I don't know that they like mail order.