Newer freezers/refrigerators tend to run a lot. Typically 75% of the time is a norm. Some other things could affect this such as ambient temperature, location could be an issue depending on if it is in the basement, or in a sunroom. Usage can also cause it if the door is opened and closed a lot. Along with trying to maintain a temperature below zero. The colder it is, the longer it needs to run to try and achieve it! Should be as close to 0' F as possible.
It is best to give as much info as possible when posting. Model #'s let me look up what you have and being a serviceman I am aware of certain "ticks" between models. Age of the unit tells me if it is maybe getting ready to go! Not always though. The temp you have while the problem is happening.
You said you replaced everything? do you men electrical parts or components? A list would be helpful. Location in home/ or is it business use? A picture of the frost pattern would also go a very long way!
It’s a Frigidaire LFFH17F7HWH upright freezer. We replaced the thermistor, then the defrost heater assembly. Replaced the run capacitor, relay compressor start device, the door gasket and the electronic control panel we replaced 2x. The coils are lightly frosted on the top only. It beeps every morning at 3:20 to say high temp. Sometimes it’s -8, then jumps to 11, then 26. Inside we out a thermometer which reads what the panel says. Thinking it’s time to kick this freezer from hell to the curb.
I ordered a evaporator fan and motor just to know that too will be replaced. Last chance sort of.
Thank you for your input. I would cancel the fan motor as it sounds like you are having a sealed system issue. When looking at the evaporator, it should have a consistent frost from top to bottom,side to side and front to back. Looking at the two tubes that go into the evaporator, One is very small and is called the capillary tube. The Freon flows into the evaporator from this tube and removes heat offering the cooling effect.
When a sealed system has a leak, or a restriction, or an inefficient compressor then the frost pattern will be partial typically heavy where the capillary tube connects and only frosting a row or two of tubing.
Sealed systems can be difficult to diagnose without the proper tools and training. Unfortunately, it is usually best to give up and go buy a new one as the cost to repair usually greatly outweighs the cost of a new one.
You have an awful lot of money in parts already! and spending more would be wasteful. You can call in a repairman to properly diagnose it but that is another cost to you.
Everything is frozen.
Looking at your picture, you only have frost at the top of the evaporator and it is heavy on the left front where the capillary tube (small copper tube) connects to it. The bottom 75ish percent looks clean with no frost and this is very typical of a leak,restriction or inefficient compressor. On a normal system, the frost would be uniform from the top to the bottom,left to right and front to back. Without tapping into the system, I can not tell you what the problem is but it is not the fan motor! Like I said, you have replaced a lot of parts and it was no small cost. I would recommend getting another freezer before putting any more money into this, or get a qualified tech to diagnose the sealed system issue.
Okay. Thank you.
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SOURCE: freezer cold, fridge warm
The small cooling fan in the freezer compartment that sends chilled air to the food side is defective and needs replacement. Sometimes that are only frozen stuck.
When you receive advice from this website you have to understand that without the item in front of us, we are only able to provide "a best guess" as to what the problem might be based on you description of the defect. If you haven't described a clear and precise description of the defect you decrease the chances of an accurate reply. Thank you.
SOURCE: Refrigerator trips GFI outlet
unlikely to be the defrost timer. more likely to be the defrost element. try disconnecting the element and see if it trips then. could be of course a wiring fault - frayed wires etc
SOURCE: not cooling
Sometimes when the evaporator fan goes out, it takes part of the motherboard also. (part number WR55X10552, which also subs into a WR55X10656) If this is the case, I would not expect the refrig to be running either. (If your compressor still runs, check door switch.)
SOURCE: refrigerator evaporator fan won't run but compressor working
is the evaporator coil frozzen you may have a defrost problem
SOURCE: Evaporator fan did not start running when condenser fan started.
I don't know why there would be much of a delay between the condenser and evaporator fans coming on. If you have diagnosed it as a bad motor, that's probably correct.
But the motor could just need cleaning and lubricating
Hi,
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