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I have a Samsung T.V. model# un58j5190afxza... Was watching T.V. one night and it just turns off by itself. Found the power supply board went out. Bought entire repair kit (t-con board,power board, wifi board, led strips and the other board) and replaced everything. Now I have standby light but no back light or picture or sound... Help!

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 257 Answers

SOURCE: Samsung LN-T2632H won't turn on.

Follow these steps to figure out what problem is.
When you turn on TV, look at the back and see if the back light on. If it is on, the power supply and inverter work fine. The suspection now is main board and T-con board (the small board on the middle-top of the panel)
To find the problem from the main board or not. Look at the power supply and measure Vs on - turn on the TV, this approx 5 vlt DC needs constant once you turn on the TV. If it is drop or unstable - main board problem - replace it.
If Vs on is good - disconnect the T-con cable from the power sup. If power sup stop clicking - T-con need replacing. Hope it help.

Posted on Aug 13, 2009

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SOURCE: I got a Sony Bravia

http://www.smpcshop.com/KDL-40WL135-KDL-46WL135-p-8895.html
Above is a link for a service manual.

Hi, well I applaud you for starting in the right place, The power supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
Gee it seems that you have replaced just about the entire "Guts" of the set, in the industry we call this the "Shot gun" method, however it seldom works in reality. One really needs to isolate the Cause, of the "Fault" and repair that and also any damage done by that. As if one doesn't remove the "Cause" it will simply fault again when the "New" bit is connected up. One needs to get the unit going section by section, testing and proving the prior section before connecting up to the next, which also must be tested to make sure that what you are going to connect will NOT damage what you are connecting it to.
Also unfortunately, these LED's Blinks, are NOT an error code in actual fact.
What you need to do is use the service manual, and follow through the troubleshooting steps, to isolate and hopefully repair your problem.
Basically it is all about voltages and if they are correct, a Higher voltage than stated usually means a component is Open circuit or a very high resistance, whereas a Lower than stated voltage usually indicates a Short Circuit, or low value resistance component, is "Faulty". These are all in the SM, as are the waveforms that must be checked, it is indeed very difficult to repair electronics these days without specialised equipment and even though I have over 30 years experience i find it difficult, so good luck.

Posted on Feb 24, 2011

bronk50
  • 27725 Answers

SOURCE: powersupply went out replaced power supply on my DX4300 powers on but no picture on moniter

Test all leads that attach to your hard drive including electrical extensions,IDE,SATA

the leads from your ((motherboard to your hard drive)) make sure they have secure dust free connections and are not faulty or just replace them they might be faulty


if its a 40 pin flat ribbon type it will be the first to fail


make sure all leads that are attached to your drives dvd\cd 3 1/2 inch floppy have secure connections and are not faulty even the electical extensions


even something as small as an electrical fan and its lead can cause you problems

computers need all electrical power and data to continue through every working device and to have an end so any faulty leads will end up with a computer error


make sure your graphics card is securely seated with no dust built up or in the socket

if you remove your graphics check the socket to make sure its dust free


restart your computer then reinstall it this should activate found new hardware wizard


hope this helps

Posted on Jun 19, 2012

vinceisaac
  • 2432 Answers

SOURCE: Samsung TV goes Black but keeps sound

you will need to check weather the 24vdc supply for the inverter board is good no drop voltage. if no supply check the power supply board. then you should check if their is a inv_on signal at the power inverter board around 3v-4.4vdc . if goes out during power on tried to disconnect the supply going to the inverter board to ensure if their is a shorted parts in the inverter board. if the inverter_on signal also goes out even with out inverter board connected that was mean you have problem in the processor board.

Posted on Nov 02, 2012

SD Tech
  • 14553 Answers

SOURCE: panasonic TC-42PX14 wont turn on power light flashes 1 time

You may want to shop for that board or at least consider removal of the HDMI socket in question---tested for shorts there I presume?

Posted on Nov 05, 2012

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Back - light problem. Check and replace damaged component/s at its back-light inverter board, or replace this board as card basis. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. It will be best to replace the inverter board as card basis.
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
To some model sets; especially LED back-lighted types; the back-light inverter circuit will be part of the main power supply board [SMPS]. In such cases, the power supply board might need replacement. To some models sets, the back-light inverter and SMPS section circuit will be integrated at its main board itself. If so; the main board should be replaced. To some models of sets, all these section circuit will be integrated at its main board. If this is the case, you have to replace the main digital board./

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Sounds like Back - light problem. Check and replace damaged component/s at its back-light inverter board, or replace this board as card basis. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. It will be best to replace the inverter board as card basis.
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
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Hi there,

If the tv is still under warranty, this can be repaired at no charge.

However, if not under warranty, you will need to have the CAPACITORS on the main power supply circuit board tested (or replaced).

The capacitors responsible for the power supply can sometimes fail - open the back panel. If the capacitors on the main power supply board look too fat, or signs of burning near the solder joints, then you've found the problem.

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