Question about Samsung Televison & Video
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Samsung LN-T2632H won't turn on.
Follow these steps to figure out what problem is.
When you turn on TV, look at the back and see if the back light on. If it is on, the power supply and inverter work fine. The suspection now is main board and T-con board (the small board on the middle-top of the panel)
To find the problem from the main board or not. Look at the power supply and measure Vs on - turn on the TV, this approx 5 vlt DC needs constant once you turn on the TV. If it is drop or unstable - main board problem - replace it.
If Vs on is good - disconnect the T-con cable from the power sup. If power sup stop clicking - T-con need replacing. Hope it help.
Posted on Aug 13, 2009
SOURCE: I got a Sony Bravia
Above is a link for a service manual.
Hi, well I applaud you for starting in the right place, The power supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
Gee it seems that you have replaced just about the entire "Guts" of the set, in the industry we call this the "Shot gun" method, however it seldom works in reality. One really needs to isolate the Cause, of the "Fault" and repair that and also any damage done by that. As if one doesn't remove the "Cause" it will simply fault again when the "New" bit is connected up. One needs to get the unit going section by section, testing and proving the prior section before connecting up to the next, which also must be tested to make sure that what you are going to connect will NOT damage what you are connecting it to.
Also unfortunately, these LED's Blinks, are NOT an error code in actual fact.
What you need to do is use the service manual, and follow through the troubleshooting steps, to isolate and hopefully repair your problem.
Basically it is all about voltages and if they are correct, a Higher voltage than stated usually means a component is Open circuit or a very high resistance, whereas a Lower than stated voltage usually indicates a Short Circuit, or low value resistance component, is "Faulty". These are all in the SM, as are the waveforms that must be checked, it is indeed very difficult to repair electronics these days without specialised equipment and even though I have over 30 years experience i find it difficult, so good luck.
Posted on Feb 24, 2011
Test all leads that attach to your hard drive including electrical extensions,IDE,SATA the leads from your ((motherboard to your hard drive)) make sure they have secure dust free connections and are not faulty or just replace them they might be faulty if its a 40 pin flat ribbon type it will be the first to fail make sure all leads that are attached to your drives dvd\cd 3 1/2 inch floppy have secure connections and are not faulty even the electical extensions even something as small as an electrical fan and its lead can cause you problems computers need all electrical power and data to continue through every working device and to have an end so any faulty leads will end up with a computer error make sure your graphics card is securely seated with no dust built up or in the socket if you remove your graphics check the socket to make sure its dust free restart your computer then reinstall it this should activate found new hardware wizard hope this helps
Test all leads that attach to your hard drive including electrical extensions,IDE,SATA
the leads from your ((motherboard to your hard drive)) make sure they have secure dust free connections and are not faulty or just replace them they might be faulty
if its a 40 pin flat ribbon type it will be the first to fail
make sure all leads that are attached to your drives dvd\cd 3 1/2 inch floppy have secure connections and are not faulty even the electical extensions
even something as small as an electrical fan and its lead can cause you problems
computers need all electrical power and data to continue through every working device and to have an end so any faulty leads will end up with a computer error
make sure your graphics card is securely seated with no dust built up or in the socket
if you remove your graphics check the socket to make sure its dust free
restart your computer then reinstall it this should activate found new hardware wizard
hope this helps
Posted on Jun 19, 2012
you will need to check weather the 24vdc supply for the inverter board is good no drop voltage. if no supply check the power supply board. then you should check if their is a inv_on signal at the power inverter board around 3v-4.4vdc . if goes out during power on tried to disconnect the supply going to the inverter board to ensure if their is a shorted parts in the inverter board. if the inverter_on signal also goes out even with out inverter board connected that was mean you have problem in the processor board.
Posted on Nov 02, 2012
You may want to shop for that board or at least consider removal of the HDMI socket in question---tested for shorts there I presume?
Posted on Nov 05, 2012
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