Changed hot water elements and it keeps kicken off breacker

Bad element, bad switch or other electrical problem. You could double check switch by turning on broiler element to see if that
gets hot. If so then either oven thermostat, or element. Did the circuit breaker pop off and then you reset? So there is a short somewhere, especially if it happens again. The above test with broiler element could verify power to oven. If it pops the
circuit breaker again. You need a service technician. Usually the oven requires a dedicated wire to the oven. Don't use the oven again until the problem is resolved. There's a slim possibility
that the circuit breaker needs to be replaced. How long did you use the oven? If a long time circuit breaker is more likely because
when they begin to fail they get too hot and therefore pop. You will need an electrician to change the circuit breaker if that is the problem.

Heating elements cold be going bad look at them with a flashlight if either of the elements look thinner than the rest of it then it needs replacing before it goes out completely. With aloud bang a bright arc flash and smoke. Very scary. There's a metal tag on the inside of the oven door jam.write the model and serial number down. Shut off the circuit breaker for the stove should be a 50 amp double breaker. Remove 2 small 1/4 inch screws. Slide the element out straight to you. Remove the 2 wires with the same 1/4 inch nut driver keeping the wires separated .Do Not turn on the circuit breaker till the new elements are installed! !! Use the model and serial number to get your new elements first.

The upper element is for broiling and should not come on until you tell it broil. If it is coming on as soon as you turn on the breaker then it sounds like the printed circuit control board is bad. There is a relay on the board that engages when you program in the broiler. The relay can be hard to find and may not be removable. My broiler would come on when I programmed in the bake mode, go into runaway heat, put up a F10 code, and shut off. I could not clear it until I programmed in the clean mode for 2 hours. Now it works great.

Check the wiring on the elements for a short..sounds like a ground short

see this steps and fix it. God bless you

. Top element
If the element only works partially or not getting red hot at the "Hi" setting, the problem might be with a burned out receptacle that the element plugs into. If this is the case, replace both the element and the receptacle.

You can usually tell when the element itself burns out. It might have small holes or bubbles on the coil. Replace the element, if found defective.

2. Infinite switch
Another reason, why the element would not start, might be a defective infinite switch (located behind the control panel, with the burner knob on its shaft). Replace the switch if found defective.
Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/rangeoven-repair-help.html#2-2#ixzz2aSmUeYiW
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

Hi.

If the element does not turn off, possible faults are:

Shorted temperature probe.
Test temperature probe reading impedance. If impedance is zero or lower than 0.500 Ohms, the the probe is shorted. A good probe reads about 1KOhms.

Contact at element. A contact in element wiring harness may cause the element to stay on. Do continuity test between ground and element and on wiring harness.

Defective control module.
If problem is none of the above, then it is the oven electronic control(ERC). The ERC can be tested reading voltages.

Testing must be done by a trained technician.

Check your breaker box to make sure the breakers are ON.. these typically are double throw breakers.. it is possible one of them has been thrown open.. so flip that double throw off and back on.. then check..I have seen one side of these breakers fail.. unusual.. but it happens.. then a replacement is in order.. regardless. visually it may appear the breaker is closed..but upon closer inspection.. one side may be "spongy/open". There are always exceptions..so examine the breaker box carefully.

If one breaker is open..it would be wise to keep an eye on things to determine how it got that way in the first place. If the breaker will not close or throws/pops again..you either have a bad breaker or a wiring problem..in some cases the element may have grounded out..or burned a wire.. etc.

Next thing to check for is a bad element.. Remember..this is a 220volt hot circuit with a high amperage breaker.. BE CAREFUL.. USE CAUTION.. Failure to do so could result in serious injure or DEATH.

Turn off power at the breaker box to the oven.. test the working over to make sure the power is OFF.

Remove the oven racks
Remove the screws at the base of the element

Pull the element toward you

Note how the wire(s) are connected

Disconnect the wires.. checking for broken or lose terminals..if lose or broken..repair.

You will need a volt ohm meter for the following..

Test the Element for continuity. Place each probe on the terminal ends (manual will have ratings) generally if you have continuity it probably works..

Test for a grounded/short.. one probe to element the other to terminal end..if you have continuity.. it's shorted out. Test both terminals

Replace with a new one if needed.. reverse procedure. Turn on the power .. and test for proper operation.

Again.. 220 VOLTS..HIGH AMPERAGE.. USE CAUTION..not doing so could result in injury or DEATH

After you have done the above..and get an all pass..then it's on to controllers and temp sensors.

Best of luck

You most likely have a bad control board. Using your model number, go here to see which one it calls for.

The oven bake element has burnt out and needs replacing. Shut the power off to the range. Remove the element mounting screws located inside the oven above or below each end of the element. Carefully slide the element out, disconnect electrical wiring. Install new element.