Possible calling for heat check heater element
SOURCE: elec water heater no hot water
Check the breaker to see if the unit is getting power. You will need a voltage meter to check out the thermostat on the unit and also you will need to use it to check if the elements aren't blown. Sounds like the unit isn't getting power but could be the thermostat located under one of the panels on the side of the unit.
SOURCE: I have a noritz water tankless heater and hot
Three flashes typically indicates the unit is overheating due to scale. I'd try a descale initially and see if that remedies the problem.
SOURCE: I filled my bathtub and
First thing to do is identify water heater.
There is a label on side of tank.
Take digital image of label so you can see serial number and details of water heater clearly.
Upper sensor is a thermostatic control that tells water heater to heat water.
If this is Whirlpool or Craftmaster energy-smart electric water heater, manual has 800 number for ordering parts. You need serial number of heater so they can identify exact product. Sensor can be replaced by homeowner and comes with instructions.
If you have different brand you can contact the company:
For web addresses for the various water heater companies:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html
For additional assistance, call plumber or add a comment with your brand and model number
SOURCE: The water heater red light
There are many things to check. The single most important test is for 24V at the gas valve after the ignitor is supposed tp be on. 19 V or less and there is either a bad ground or the ingition control board has failed. (Wire ground problems are a high probablilty) PROBLEM #1 - HOT SURFACE IGNITOR DOES NOT GLOW RED (Remember to wait for purge time, 17/34 seconds, on models so equipped). Possible causes A. No main power B. Faulty transformer C. Faulty thermostat D. Faulty limit switch E. Faulty blower interlock switch F. Faulty hot surface ignitor G. Faulty ignition control Solution Step #1 Perform normal system checks of main power, transformer, thermostat, limit switch, blower interlock switch, and replace faulty component. Step #2 With power on and thermostat set at its highest position, check voltage between "TH" and "TR" on HS780 ignition control. If 24 volts is not present check output at transformer. If no, replace transformer. If transformer checks out OK look at other controls in the 24 volt circuit I.E.: thermostat, limit switch, blower interlock switch. Check for 120 volts between "neut" (L2) and "120" (L1). Check for 120 volts at the ignitor across "IGN" and "IGN" terminals on the HS780 ignition module. If 120 volts is present, PROBLEM #2 - IGNITOR GLOWS RED BUT MAIN BURNER WOULDN'T LIGHT Possible causes A. Improper ignitor alignment B. Faulty ignition control C. Faulty gas valve D. High inlet gas pressure E. Polarity reversed F. No earth ground Solution Step #1 Check for availability of gas at gas valve. Make sure the manual valve upstream of the gas valve and the gas valve are in the full on position. Also make sure gas is being supplied to the system at the proper pressure, too high will lock-up the valve. Step #2 Check proper polarity of "NEUT" and "120" on the ignition control by reversing the wires, if reversed gas valve will not open. If this does not solve the problem, replace wires as they were. Step #3 Check for proper ignitor position. Step #4 Check for a good earth ground by using a meter connected between L1 and furnace chassis. Should read 120 volts, if no, check and/or repair ignition Step #5 Check for 24 volts at the gas valve terminals; "1" and "2" on a 7200 series, "M" and "C" on a 7100 series, "TH" and "TR" on a 7000 series. If yes, check wire integrity or change the gas valve. If no, change the 780 series
Here is what the book says:
replace ignitor. If no, replace the 780 series module
ground wire or ignition control mounting screws.
CAUTION POLARITY MUST BE OBSERVED
ignition module.
That is pretty much all of the troubleshooting required.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
SOURCE: scr2 titan water heater. No hot water. Both red
On the left side of the board there is a 10K 5Watt resistor that gets loose from the board because of overheat and it needs to core solder back with soldering iron.
Most electric hot water heaters have two thermostats, one near the top of the tank and one near the bottom, and are covered by removable metal cover plates. The thermostats are pressed firmly against the bare metal wall of the hot water heaters tank.
The top thermostat usually has a high limit switch that will trip if the water gets too hot. When it trips it shuts off the electricity to both the upper and lower heating elements.
To reset the high limit switch there is usually a red button that you must press. When the upper limit switch trips it is often an indication that something else has gone wrong with the heater.
When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced.
Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced. If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat.
If there is power to the lower heating element then it should be getting hot. If it is not, replace it. Another possibility is a broken dip tube. Check for a broken dip tube and replace if necessary.
Hope this helps out
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