Coincidence or electrical problems? I have a 7 year old Frigidaire electric range. About a year ago, one of the range burner controls stopped working. I replaced it. Last week the oven stopped working. The oven burner and broiler burner aren't working so I assume the problem is the controller board. Today, the Kenmore above range microwave started arcing while popping popcorn. There are burn marks on the top of the microwave. Is it a coincidence that the microwave is going out at the same time as the oven, or do I need to have an electrician come out?
I would definitely have an electrician come out and check your wiring, fuse box, etc.
SOURCE: GE Profile Spectra XL 44 gas oven
If you can smell the gas when you turn on the oven, it may be on a separate igniter that has gone bad. I would check this first. If you are not getting gas to the oven, there is possibly an issue with the supply line.
SOURCE: kitchen aid superba electric convection range
ouch thats gotta hurt!! how about the clock os that back on atleast??? sounds like a bad thermo stat on the back wall of the unit maybe a quater sized thermo 1 wire in one out, should have ( BUT DOUBt it does) have continuity through it. ifthe clock still doenst work ther is also a small inline thermal fuse connected right to the wire warness connecting to the main control
SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Cheers
Dave
SOURCE: Kenmore electric range: oven & broiler will not work.
All your oven features are controlled by the Electronic Range Control (ERC) board. This is your clock/timer assembly. Unfortunately, most do not have fuses and are not serviceable. You will probably need to replace the board. The following link explains how:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3727366-replacing_control_kitchen_range
Replacement circuit boards can be purchased on line at any of the following websites:
searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com
Prices vary between these sites, so shop and compare. For the model number you have listed, the part number for a new board is 316207511.
NOTE: The overlay, which is the plastic template with the numbers and letters preprinted on it, does not come with the new board. It has to be purchased seperately. However, if the current overly is still in good shape, it can be peeled off the old circuit board and reused. The part number (if required) is 316220841.
If you have questions about this repair, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.
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