I've got broken welds on my Lewmar hatches, which are circa 1991.I can't seem to get the steel pins out to remove the hatch and get it rewelded. What's the secret? I drove it out a little bit with a cutoff screwdriver, but now it won't move anymore and it hasn't come out far enough to grab it from the other end. Is it a long, one-piece hatch pin? I can't tell. Thanks, Evan Dill
SOURCE: DS Cartridge slot, broken pins
no. unless you know how to disassemble it and know how to do some soldering.
if you can think you can do it.
open it, check for wires with same diameter of original ones and remake the wiring.
not impossible, but a hard task to do.
SOURCE: stiff hinge pin
These systems use a pretty generic hinge set-up. These can be dealt with in two ways, one involving a safer method for future adjustments. The hinges are two separate bars on each side of the monitor with friction cuffs that use the tension between their two pieces to hold the monitor stiff. Generally my experience with Acer models is that they ALL ship with pretty stiff hinges, which is a double-edged blade. Stock hinges that don't click when fresh have a tendency to need replacing after a couple years, where as my acer TM4K hinges are still strong today after 4. The best way to loosen these babies up is to just use it. About an average of 75 open/close cycles break in the hinge to where it stays nice & tight, but stops clicking or cracking. The other way, which is for those who are afraid the LCD housing will crack it's so tight, is to take the monitor off, but not apart, carefully using two pairs of needle-nose pliers, hold steady the monitor end with one set and with the other, flex the flat end of the now loose hinge back and forth as far as you can get it to move until you feel it is to the right strength.
It helps to mention that too little is better than too much, as I see a good amount of people burnt out with their Compaq Evo & Presario (ca.2001-2) hinges, falling to the ground soon as you let it go, only 6 months after their last replacement set.
SOURCE: Hatch B open error
the problem of the B Door open is in fact on the A door sensor.
if you look to the left side of the A door where the sensor is u can see 2 sensores, one metal plate and another in button form. the problem is in the button form sensor, the A door is not push him right, try too push that 2 sensor's and see if the error desapears if so try to find a way to maintain them fushed
SOURCE: remove pin pivot in transom mount
look for clips around the pin inside the housing perimiter. If you see rings cut in the pin that don't have clips in them, they probably fell off. If used in a marine environment, the pin probably is corroded and locked to the housing. Use usual methods, i.e. heat and lube and.....a hammer wrench.
SOURCE: 2002 Ford Explorer Limited rear hatch body piece broken
look for one at a salvage yard or someplace that sells after market parts just ask for a rear door hatch exterior panel
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