Do I need to turn yellow tap on gas line
Check the owners manual for directions
https://www.manualslib.com/
SOURCE: my honeywell ct87K thermostat will not turn the heater on
On your thermostat - R is the power in terminal. Y is the cooling out. W is the heating out. (G is fan out). It does not matter which wire goes to R, the other should go to W - if no heat with a call, the thermostat is bad.
SOURCE: weedeater gas line
I ran a short piece of coathanger that I cut through the fuel line and used electrical tape (stretched tight) to tape it securely at the end and pushed it thru the hole. Then I removed the electrical tape and cut off the part of the hose that had been taped. You waste an inch or two of fuel line, but that's how I got mine thru. Sure hope this helps and best wishes.
SOURCE: Heater will not fire. On
Look on the wiring diagram inside the access panel or near the access panel. There should be notes on the bottom of the diagram telling you what the error codes mean (error codes are your flashing yellow lights). Let me know if the description on the wiring diagram is not obvious. -Mark
SOURCE: jandy lite 2 heater model
Igniter circuit is open. Check fuses on igniter wires. Identify and correct loose or broken wires. Element has a fine crack in it. Replace Igniter fault. Replace igniter.
SOURCE: TV won't turn on red lite is on
In most cases the standby light might blink with different rapidity to indicate a fault relevant to the processor. It is possible that most of these indicate that there are errors in the processing section . Since there is a possible short or leak in the circuit the output driver section can take in huge current to trip the SMPS or from advice from the micro processor. Remove the power plugs and make sure that high voltage sections are discharged of the potential stored in capacitors. Look for visible signs of leak or of busted capacitors. Look for bulged capacitors or damaged components- burnt or busted. Use a multimeter to check the continuity or shorting in components, if so detach from circuit and test . If the voltage builds up and the set power ON and then shuts up then the suspected section must be checked in detail. The processor must have the +5 voltage to the function properly , the +B and secondary voltages also must be checked to infer the fault. Trace with caution and in running through the signal path , circuit trail. In some cases the fault can be related to faulty connections or poor soldering joints. Here are some tips to check out weak solder or heat related faults: There is a high possibility that the components over a period of heating and cooling, tend to bring on a problem of dry soldering. So my advice is to check the set for some loose joints that have played on to give you these erratic shut downs or poor performance. The best way to check for loose connections is to tap lightly when the set is powered on , If there is change while tapping then it seems that there are DRY solder joints. Remove main plug, the covers - with caution of high voltage, check for dry joints, use a good soldering iron to solder all suspected points. Sometimes the fault occurs when the set warms up, if so you can simulate the heat using a hair dryer on the suspected areas, try with the power supply, distribution, Processor controller, driver controllers on the A/V related sections. Also the use a FREEZE-IT spray can simulate the components to cool and show up the fault. Based on the above method you must be able to locate the area of fault and solder the sections. Sometimes large IC's- ones with more pins- tend to have drying in some pins and so cause faults related to the IC's protocol. Have a rough idea of looking into the areas to reduce the time of probing. Check for tips to look into the SMPS unit with some of my tips: http://www.fixya.com/support/r5826301-working_switch_mode_power_supplies Thank you for using Fixya.
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