Resetting the thermal cut-out
The tank is fitted with a safety device that will shut-off the boiling water if the tank is switched on without water, or there is a power surge. The hot water can be restored by operating a reset button on the front of the tank.
Disconnect the tank's electrical power supply. Operate the boiling water handle on the tap to check that the tank is full of water. Switch on the power supply, press the on/off button and allow 25 minutes for the tank to reheat before use.
https://www.franke.com/content/dam/corporate/gb/en/ks/productdownloads/installationdownloads/MinervaTankInstructions.pdf?force-download=true
SOURCE: boiler bangs when hot water used
You need to install a "water hammer arrestor" they can be found at any local plumbing supply house.
If you can find one with "Shark bite" fittings already installed then there will be no need for soldering or special tools other than a tubing cutter.
SOURCE: How do I clean the contact points between kettle and platform?
PROBLEM:
My problem was similar for the Cuisinart KUA-17. I clicked down the on switch and it stayed down. However, the light and power together seemed finicky. That is, the light came on if I positioned the kettle in the base correctly, but then it sometimes went off without triggering the switch to pop up. When the light went off while the switch remained down the water never boiled, but when I was lucky to position it such that the light remained on, the water did boil and the switch popped up ... as it should have. It seemed to be getting more and more finicky and difficult to position correctly ... so I took it apart.
SOLUTION:
First of all, the base has screws that take a triangle screwdriver which I don't have. So I found a small flat-headed screwdriver (like one you'd use for glasses) that just fit along one side of the triangle. I was able to get three base screws out this way and since I expected to need to do this again in the future, I used my dremel to grind a larger flat-headed screwdriver slot in each. It's been about a year and a half since I fixed it last time and this time I was glad I had the slots.
Once you get the plastic base off, you'll see the mechanics of the switch. There are two wires that both turn on the light and power the heater element. Where the wires connect to the switch mechanism, there are two metal tabs that stick out in opposite directions from the center. When the switch is pushed down, you can see these two tabs move. They are each moving to touch a contact and complete the electrical circuit. My problem was they were not making a good contact. The contacts are hidden behind the tabs. All I had to do was bend the contacts one millimeter closer (i.e. as little as possible) so that they would make a good contact. The only other trick was I had to remove the switch mechanism from the bottom of the kettle to do this. Then I just used the same small flat-headed screwdriver to bend the contact as in the picture below.
SOURCE: tefal quick cup kettle water
If you are in a hard water area you may need to descale the heater element. Try adding 1 cup vinegar to 3 cups water and run the machine should clear up the scale. Rinse thoroughly before use.
Unless you can take it apart and repair it yourself, it probably isn't worth the cost to have it repaired. There are several websites that sell parts, but you really have to be familiar with electrical circuits to diagnose it. Possibilities are:
1. It could be the thermostatic switch that turns it off as it reaches temperature. These are little devices with two wires connected and are in the base of the unit. these normally reset themselves but can stop working, especially if they have gotten wet.
2. It could be the cord to the unit with a wire broken at the base or the plug end.
3. It could be a thermal fuse; these are about 1/4 inch in diameter and may be hidden in an insulating sleeve near the element; they are sensitive to both heat and current.
3. It could be the element is burned out.
Link to a parts supplier is enclosed
Breville Kettle Parts
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