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If the fridge is overcooling it could be the thermostat. If the defrost panel is permanently switched on, overcooling might not be noticed but the condenser will become quite hot.
If running continuously, there is no overcooling and the condenser remains cool, either the compressor is defective or the refrigerant has leaked away.
Make sure that the temp probe from the thermostat is located exactly where the old one was. If it had a plastic sleeve on the old one, the new one will need that sleeve. You shouldn't need to calibrate the control if it is the one specified for this model. If it was a generic replacement then possibly it could need some adjustment.
WHEN U TALK ABOUT THE THERMOSTAT U MEAN THE COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT OR DEFROST TIMER THERMOSTAT? WHEN UR PROBLEM SOUNDS MORE LIKE THE DEFROST TERMINATOR OR BAD HEATING ELEMENT, LOCATED ON THE FREEZER EVAPORATOR COILS? IF ITS STAYING ON ALL THE TIME U HAVE A DEFROST ISSUE? OR BAD SEALS ON DOOR AND DIRTY COMPRESSOR
check the ptc overload relay it could have stuck and is supplying power to the compressor all the time even if the thermostat is off,its on the compressor body where the wires go to the compressor
Does your model have independent thermostats for the fridge & freezer???
If not, could be that you will need to change the Thermostat.
These are not expensive - around £10 if you buy on the Internet.
Easy to fit yourself...just turn off the power, remove the power plug from the wall, then unscrew the 'stat unit from inside near the top of the fridge (some are attached to the interior light) and remove the screw holding the thermostat tube to the rear wall.
Often the thermostat gets a small hole somewhere in the long tube, which then lets all the gas escape, making the stat useless.
You can see these small holes in the pipe if you use a magnifying eyeglass, like the kind Jewellers use.
The thermostat capillary on a Hotpoint RLA64 (and possibly RLA80) is inserted into a tube. The tube becomes detached from the cooling element and so does not sense that the fridge has reached the desired temperature. It then carries on cooling resulting in ice build-up and freezing of goods.
As you cannot remove the top or back of the fridge, you cannot fix the capillary tube back into position. What you can do however, AFTER ISOLATING THE FRIDGE FROM THE MAINS SUPPLY, is to drill a small hole adjacent to the thermostat capillary tube and another in the roof of the fridge next to the interior light and pass the thermostat capillary INTO the fridge cabinet. Use tape to attach the capillary across the roof of the fridge and down the centre of the rear wall curling the last 50mm or so back up towards the top of the fridge. As long as you have dried the wall of the fridge and stuck the capillary securely in place, your fridge should now work correctly when powered up.
Only tackle this job if you are confident and ALWAYS ISOLATE the mains supply.
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