Question about Frigidaire Dryers
When I go to start it, I get no response. I have power to the unit, because the interior light comes on when I open the door, which I assume means that the door switch is OK. I have a multi-meter but I just need some direction. Thanks in advance.
Still could be door switch. Listen for a click when switch button is pressed. If that’s ok, possibly thermal fuse, or maybe improper voltage. Make sure breaker isn’t halfway tripped. Broken belt is a possibility. Motor is also a possibility. Timer or control board could also be the problem. Also check start switch.
Posted on Mar 11, 2019
Have you checked the belt maybe b broken
Posted on Mar 11, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Dryer won't start
It sounds like you have a blown thermal fuse. Searspartsdirect.com has a replacement kit available. Just type in your model number and the kit can be located under the "Heater" heading as item number 5 (part #LA-1053). The kit contains the hi-limit thermostat and thermal fuse. Replace both components at the same time. NOTE: Only one of the thermal fuses will be used, however. One is for a GAS dryer, while the other is for an ELECTRIC dryer. They are marked accordingly.
To access, you will need to remove the dryer front panel. This is accomplished by inserting a putty knife into the seam where the dryer top and front meet (about 2 inches in from each end) and pushing in to depress the release tabs. Disconnect the door switch wires and the front panel comes off and can be set aside (make sure you label the wires). With the front panel removed, the dryer top panel lifts up. The heating element will be located in the center-rear of the dryer behind the dryer drum.
If you require further assistance, please let me know. I hope this information is helpful to you.
NOTE: The website also includes helpful illustrations for component location and wiring diagrams. The correct wiring diagram depends on your dryer serial number. If you have questions about this let me know (send me the serial number).
Posted on Jun 18, 2008
SOURCE: Door Ajar Warning Light Stays On
Our Ford Expedition & an Olds Silhouette Premier & both did the same thing. Someone online said to spray the inside door where the metal connects with the frame & sensors are there with WD-40. We did & it fixed the problem. Maybe this will work for yours.
Posted on Aug 25, 2008
SOURCE: interior lights problem
Just because the headlight warning comes on does not mean that the interior light is on the same circuit through the door switch.
There are also some perameters that can be set using a scan tool from the dealer, or what's known as a Vag-Com that many VW owners have.
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
Sounds like a fuse issue. check your panel for popped accessory fuse.
the overhead light issue may be the door close switch
Posted on Feb 27, 2009
Same thing as other owners above...Dryer is five years old and is in need of a good cleaning of lint build-up. Model no. PYET444AZW.
I put a large load of clothes, which probably should have been spun again, into the dryer. When I returned the clothes were still basically wet, and the light in the dryer would not come on, and nor would the dryer start.
Tested the circuit breaker. OK. Tested the outlet with a tester pen. OK.
So in searching the internet for a solution, I found and read this string. Found the fuse, called my local appliance parts store and bought a thermal fuse kit for CDN$48 (incl sales tax). Kit came with three fuses.
Just opening the top of the dryer was a chore for a complete novice. However, the entire top is hinged at the back -- so at the front of the machine, just gently poked a slot screwdriver in the gap ringing the sides near the top, twist screwdriver and lift. Big fuse is easily accessible at the top near the back of the drum. It's a round thing about the size of a quarter screwed into a metal frame with two crimped-on wires coming out the top. One screw to removed the frame. Then detached the crimped-on wires, and removed the fuse from the frame with two more screws. You will need a smaller size ratchet or nut-driver.
While you have it apart you might as well change the second nickel-size fuse, too, although it is more of a pain.
You have to remove the coiled elements, which are basically just big springs. They come out with one screw on the right and a little finesse. The second fuse sits on the right-hand side of the metal box surrounding the coiled element. The screw for the coil also held the frame for the fuse in place, but the frame will still be secured to the box with a couple of small tongues. So you will still need to kind of lift and pull up on the frame housing the fuse. It requires some patience and finesse. Remove the crimped-on wires, and change the fuse.
Of the two smaller replacement fuses that came with the kit, there was one marked for a gas dryer and another for electric. (The big fuse was good for both.)
Then start putting it all back together. Took me two hours in all. But now that I have done it once, it would hopefully take me only 30 mins. now.
Finally, my replacement instructions suggested cleaning out your machine and removing the lint and other burdens which probably overloaded the fuse in the first place. So I bought one of those specialized lint brushes to clean out the trap and the exhaust hose and vent.
Posted on Mar 20, 2010
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