Question about Frigidaire Dryers

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Hello, I have a Frigidiare "gleq215es1" electric dryer that won't start, but has power.

When I go to start it, I get no response. I have power to the unit, because the interior light comes on when I open the door, which I assume means that the door switch is OK. I have a multi-meter but I just need some direction. Thanks in advance.

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2 Answers

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  • Frigidaire Master
  • 6,289 Answers

Still could be door switch. Listen for a click when switch button is pressed. If that’s ok, possibly thermal fuse, or maybe improper voltage. Make sure breaker isn’t halfway tripped. Broken belt is a possibility. Motor is also a possibility. Timer or control board could also be the problem. Also check start switch.

Posted on Mar 11, 2019

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  • Expert
  • 152 Answers

Have you checked the belt maybe b broken

Posted on Mar 11, 2019

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer won't start

It sounds like you have a blown thermal fuse. Searspartsdirect.com has a replacement kit available. Just type in your model number and the kit can be located under the "Heater" heading as item number 5 (part #LA-1053). The kit contains the hi-limit thermostat and thermal fuse. Replace both components at the same time. NOTE: Only one of the thermal fuses will be used, however. One is for a GAS dryer, while the other is for an ELECTRIC dryer. They are marked accordingly.

To access, you will need to remove the dryer front panel. This is accomplished by inserting a putty knife into the seam where the dryer top and front meet (about 2 inches in from each end) and pushing in to depress the release tabs. Disconnect the door switch wires and the front panel comes off and can be set aside (make sure you label the wires). With the front panel removed, the dryer top panel lifts up. The heating element will be located in the center-rear of the dryer behind the dryer drum.

If you require further assistance, please let me know. I hope this information is helpful to you.

NOTE: The website also includes helpful illustrations for component location and wiring diagrams. The correct wiring diagram depends on your dryer serial number. If you have questions about this let me know (send me the serial number).

Posted on Jun 18, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Door Ajar Warning Light Stays On

Our Ford Expedition & an Olds Silhouette Premier & both did the same thing. Someone online said to spray the inside door where the metal connects with the frame & sensors are there with WD-40. We did & it fixed the problem. Maybe this will work for yours.

Posted on Aug 25, 2008

  • 1214 Answers

SOURCE: interior lights problem

Just because the headlight warning comes on does not mean that the interior light is on the same circuit through the door switch.

There are also some perameters that can be set using a scan tool from the dealer, or what's known as a Vag-Com that many VW owners have.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

djicenova
  • 319 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Jeep GC Laredo - Interior Lights stay on while driving

Sounds like a fuse issue. check your panel for popped accessory fuse.

the overhead light issue may be the door close switch

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: MAYTAG PERFORMA ELECTRIC DRYER WONT START

Same thing as other owners above...Dryer is five years old and is in need of a good cleaning of lint build-up. Model no. PYET444AZW.
I put a large load of clothes, which probably should have been spun again, into the dryer. When I returned the clothes were still basically wet, and the light in the dryer would not come on, and nor would the dryer start.
Tested the circuit breaker. OK. Tested the outlet with a tester pen. OK.
So in searching the internet for a solution, I found and read this string. Found the fuse, called my local appliance parts store and bought a thermal fuse kit for CDN$48 (incl sales tax). Kit came with three fuses.
Just opening the top of the dryer was a chore for a complete novice. However, the entire top is hinged at the back -- so at the front of the machine, just gently poked a slot screwdriver in the gap ringing the sides near the top, twist screwdriver and lift. Big fuse is easily accessible at the top near the back of the drum. It's a round thing about the size of a quarter screwed into a metal frame with two crimped-on wires coming out the top. One screw to removed the frame. Then detached the crimped-on wires, and removed the fuse from the frame with two more screws. You will need a smaller size ratchet or nut-driver.
While you have it apart you might as well change the second nickel-size fuse, too, although it is more of a pain.
You have to remove the coiled elements, which are basically just big springs. They come out with one screw on the right and a little finesse. The second fuse sits on the right-hand side of the metal box surrounding the coiled element. The screw for the coil also held the frame for the fuse in place, but the frame will still be secured to the box with a couple of small tongues. So you will still need to kind of lift and pull up on the frame housing the fuse. It requires some patience and finesse. Remove the crimped-on wires, and change the fuse.
Of the two smaller replacement fuses that came with the kit, there was one marked for a gas dryer and another for electric. (The big fuse was good for both.)
Then start putting it all back together. Took me two hours in all. But now that I have done it once, it would hopefully take me only 30 mins. now.
Finally, my replacement instructions suggested cleaning out your machine and removing the lint and other burdens which probably overloaded the fuse in the first place. So I bought one of those specialized lint brushes to clean out the trap and the exhaust hose and vent.

Posted on Mar 20, 2010

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see this causes and fix it.God bless you
Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.

Start Switch The start switch is on the dryer control panel. Depending on the model, either press a button or turn a dial to start the dryer. If the start switch fails the dryer won't start or make any noise. Test the switch with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer hums when the start switch is activated, or if the motor runs only while activating the start switch, the motor might be defective or something might be binding the drum preventing it from turning freely. If the dryer start switch does not have continuity when it is activated, it will need to be replaced.
Door Switch The door switch is located near the dryer door and is activated when the door is closed. If the door switch fails, the dryer won't start at all. Many types of door switch will make an audible click when they are activated. If the door switch makes a clicking sound when activated it is probably not defective. If it doesn't make a click, it can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. The door switch is relatively easy to replace and is usually not very expensive.

Drive Motor The dryer drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. If the dryer won't start the motor might be defective. Before replacing the motor, check the thermal fuse, start switch and door switch because all three are more likely the cause. If the dryer won't start and the dryer motor makes a humming noise there might be something caught in the blower wheel, or the drum might be binding. Try removing the belt from the motor and checking the blower wheel for obstructions. The dryer motor can't be tested easily. If the more common components have been checked and it seems the motor itself is defective, it will need to be replaced. It is not serviceable.

Drive Belt On most dryers, if the drive belt breaks the motor can still be heard and it will still be blowing air out the exhaust tube, but the drum will not spin. However, in some dryers when the drive belt breaks the tension pulley arm trips a switch which shuts off power to the entire dryer. If the dryer won't start, check to see if the belt is broken. If it is, replace the belt and the dryer should be fine. If the belt is not broken, check the other components that can fail when the dryer won't start.

Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit Most dryers have several temperature control devices such as a thermal fuse, thermal cut out, high limit fuse or high limit thermostat. Some manufacturers sell the thermal fuse and thermal cut out in a kit. These kits normally solve no-heat problems rather than when the dryer won't start. However, in some models, this kit will solve both problems. Even though this is not the most common part to fail if the dryer won't start, both can be checked using an ohm meter or continuity checker. If they have continuity they are good. If not, they should be replaced.
Incoming Power Problem If the dryer won't start, check to certain there is electricity to the dryer. For a gas dryer, unplug the dryer from the wall and plug something else into the outlet to see if it's working. For an electric dryer, check the home circuit breaker or fuses. If they are working, check the outlet where the dryer plugs in with a volt meter. There should be between 208 and 240 volts. If there is power to the dryer, check the more common items in this troubleshooting guide.
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Main Control Board The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. First, check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board can not be tested and must be replaced if it is defective. If there are obvious signs of burning or a shorted out component on the board, it should be replaced.

Timer The timer is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. First, check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer. If the dryer won't start, the cause is much more likely to be a thermal fuse or switch. The timer can not be tested, it must be replaced if it is defective.

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Frigidaire faqe7011lw0 dryer having issues, not heating up and shuts off after 10 minutes My dryer model number is faqe7011lw0. It seems to start up, and then after about 10 minutes, consistently, it shuts off and has a bunch of blinking lights on the right side of the control panel. It started off with an error code of E4A which states "The drying time has exceeded program time for that cycle". I got that code to go away and then i got another code of "E4B" which states "Temperature reading of control thermistor has not changed in a certain amount of time". The second error code makes more sense because I notice in the 10 minutes that it runs, there seems to be no heat, so i feel something is causing the dryer to not heat up. The troubleshooting for this states to test a relay on the control panel, but I wanted to see if anyone else had this issue before. The weird thing about this is, if I run the dryer empty, the cycle completes the whole way through, but with wet clothes, it shuts off exactly at 10 minutes, no matter what cycle i set it to. I thought maybe this was a sign I had too large of a load in, so I took out about half the clothes, and ran it then. I still got the same issue. So I am kind of confused why when I run it empty, I get the full cycle with no error code, but with anything in the dryer at all, it stops after 10 minutes and gives me an error code. FYI, I have check the exhaust too to make sure it isn't clogged with lint, and it is wide open.

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