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One Mackie HR824 made a buzzing sound while the power switch was off, and now the volume dropped to almost nothing when switched on. Fuse looks fine, problem isolated to this one speaker.

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  • Audio Player... Master
  • 63,027 Answers

Then replace it . they do go bad

Posted on Mar 12, 2019

  • David Oleski
    David Oleski Mar 12, 2019

    Brilliant, thank you. Within 5 minutes I found and ordered a replacement switch, hopefully I'm back up and running soon.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Humming Sound

1. Check the cable of speaker which gives out the hum/cracking sound.Interchange the cables with the one that is working okay and find out if the hum still persists on the relevant Speaker. If the hum has gone, then replace cables ( to be on the safe side replace both right and left channel) to the speaker.If the Hum still persists, check the input female plug of the defective speaker and check if it is not lose or the solder has not gone wet. If so resolder both the wires of the connector by removing it with a soldering iron and scrapping the points of solder with a blade. If the problem still persists. Open both the cabinets. Mark the defective driver with a marker pen. Remove the non problemative driver and replace in it's place the Humming driver and check the configuration on both channels. If there is is problem then it has to do with driver and has to be recoiled and reconed ( ofcourse with a little quality lost) which could be done by any Speaker repair shop as per the manufacturers specifications. If the speaker works fine then the problem has to be either of the crossover network or tweeter. So remove the cross-over network from the defective speaker setup after marking it again for identification, and replace it in the good working speaker, where you now connected the humming speaker. If there is a hum, then the problem is the cross-over network, which should be replaced. If the hum is not there, again try similarly with the tweeter and I am sure you will get the Hum, and you may get a new one of similar specification from the market or get it repaired by a speaker shop. Replace the original configurations as was before. Woofer to its original places and similarly cross-over and tweeter ( as was before you opened the cabinets). Now you have identified the problem, solve the problem by repairing or replacing the culprit device. I am sure you may not have to go to all these. Perhaps it might be a loose connection or cable problem or even earthing problem. If you do not want to go through all these. Show it to a specialist with reputation ot take it to the company's service centres whose address in your area or nearby area you could get from their official site. Please note I have given my guidance on the premise that the amplifier if fine and has no problem.

Posted on Aug 22, 2007

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 05 odoge caravan power locks

I did the thing pulling the 20am IOD fuse out and it seemed to work great! I was going to go back to the dealership.... stupidness....
My dad is a mechanic and he said that the fuse may just have to be replaced.

Posted on Sep 01, 2008

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Speakers buzz for about 1 minute when powering on or switching

Building on what WheatService said for any other newbs (like me) who may run across this...
1) Go to Radio Shack, get yourself two of the 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors mentioned ($1.29/each) and a cheap soldering kit (mine came with solder and extras for $8). just take those numbers to the clerk, once he or she tries to sell you a couple cell phones, they should help you find the parts.
2) go home. disconnect the subwoofer from the wall, speakers, and dvd player
3) remove the 8 screws around the edge of the metal plate on back of subwoofer and carefully remove the metal plate and all the goodies attached to it. make sure to disconnect the two wires leading from the rest of the subwoofer to the circuit boards.
4) what you are looking at is two parallel circuit boards with a bunch of stuff in between them. to tell them apart, notice that one of the boards is home to a fan (amongst other things), and the other has the power cord running into it.
5) we want to remove the board that the power cord runs into, so make sure you've got the right one, and remove all of the screws which are holding it in place. again, be sure to unhook any cords before you yank off the circuit board.
6) once the board is removed, you should see two large heatsinks (pieces of metal). one is just a big rectangle that sticks straight up towards one end of the board and the other is kind of t-shaped (from the end) and a monstrosity. you'll want to look in the area between the two heat sinks but towards the smaller, rectangular one.
7) in that area, there may be some white foamy stuff sprayed around. take a look at the capacitors from radio shack and note their size. you are looking for two identical black, cylindrical capacitors roughly the same size as the ones you purchased (but a bit smaller). if you think you have the right ones, take a look at the side of them. you may have to scrape off some foamy stuff, but they should say 470uF/25V.
8) the basic idea here is that those 25V guys need to be replaced with 35V ones (the ones you bought). i'm no expert, but what worked for me is pulling lightly on the existing capacitors while melting the contact points from the bottom with the soldering tool. once those are removed, put the new ones in (push them almost all the way down so most of the wire is coming out the bottom). now turn the board back over and apply a generous bead of solder to each of the four wire points.
9) clip off the excess wire from the bottom, and marvel at your newfound expertise.
10) put the whole thing back together (steps 2-5 in reverse), remembering to connect the wires as you go.
11) turn it on and enjoy!

Posted on Apr 28, 2009

etirbynnor
  • 655 Answers

SOURCE: need a replacement power switch for a MACKIE M1400i amplifier

Hello nnix,

The difficulty is in finding an "exact replacement" and you may just be out of luck there. But fortunately, almost any switch that can be adapted to fit will function properly. The radio shack part number 275-691 is a DPDT switch which mounts in an approximate 3/4" hole. The leads can be directly soldered into a printed circuit board or if the board has a different hole pattern, you can simply use short jumpers to the switch location.

Here's a link to All Electronics which has 35 different sizes and configurations of rocker switches. Surely one of these will work in the Mackie.

Hope this helps.

Posted on May 14, 2009

  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: No sound out of JBL LSR25P speakers attached to keyboard

problem could be in wiring, fuse, crossover or the components can be damaged. the original JBL tweeter and 5.25" speaker are no longer available so replacement options would be the only alternative.
cathy@speakerex.com

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

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1 Answer

Loud buzzing when turn on, no input signal


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once playing follow the wires from the speaker that doesn't work bending it until you hear it crack or become clear if it does either of those it is the wire between the head unit and the output.

if not you can try attaching the speakers to a different head unit if it doenst work it could be the driver (the cone doesn't have to go to blow a speaker)

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I own a Mackie CFX20. It isn't the MKII. The effects are very weak, and they buzz a little when you try to use them. How can I fix them, and is a service manual available?


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The Mackie support downloads for manuals has 2 sections- you needed to look at the top at the "discontinued products" Where these are.

http://www.mackie.com/support/downloads/discontinued.html

http://www.mackie.com/pdf/cfx_om.pdf
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http://www.mackie.com/de/pdf/CFXSeries_OM_German.pdf

Feb 21, 2012 | Music

1 Answer

I turn it on and at the volume set @ U or straight up(midway) nothing comes out. if you turn it all the way up of course you get alot of buzz and barely get any sound from a mic or mixer signal,etc. could...


Make sure you are using BALANCED line to this... XLR connections boyh ends. Make sure ALL interconnected devices are powered from the same receptacle or power conditioner. Test your cables... they do go bad. This unit REQUIRES line level input. Do NOT expect a mic to drive it directely. Make sure your mixer uses the XLR outputs and is powered from the same receptacle, even if you have to run an extension cord to it. This is a bi-amped speaker so there are independent amps for high and lows. With nothing out and known good in there is very little electronics before the signal is split to the separate amps. At line level, your volume control should probably be about 2 o'clock with the EQ's straight up flat.

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I used my monitors at high volume for approximately 1 hour and they stopped working. One monitor has no volume and the other has very low minimum volume.


You may have blown a fuse in the amplifier. Refer to Appendix A: Service Info in this guide http://www.mackie.com/products/mr5/pdf/mr5_om.pdf under No Power section, and if the fuse it not blown, try some of the solutions under No Sound. Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

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Put a sound system between them and the TV, or better yet get the TV-audio from the Cable/SAT box in digital.

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1 Answer

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sw3 on the rear is low pass sw is bad contacts, c61 and oil contacttreatment,ok.

Apr 14, 2009 | Mackie HR824-MK2 System

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Replacement subwoofer


1st, if you want a new speaker(just the sub, not the cabinet), ask Mackie for the nearest dealer.
2nd, If you want to have the speaker reconed, I can recommend :

Central Florida Speaker
714 W. Smith
Orlando,FL 32804
407.423.6566

They do good work.

Nov 14, 2008 | Mackie HR824-MK2 System

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