Question about Audio Players & Recorders
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Humming Sound
1. Check the cable of speaker which gives out the hum/cracking sound.Interchange the cables with the one that is working okay and find out if the hum still persists on the relevant Speaker. If the hum has gone, then replace cables ( to be on the safe side replace both right and left channel) to the speaker.If the Hum still persists, check the input female plug of the defective speaker and check if it is not lose or the solder has not gone wet. If so resolder both the wires of the connector by removing it with a soldering iron and scrapping the points of solder with a blade. If the problem still persists. Open both the cabinets. Mark the defective driver with a marker pen. Remove the non problemative driver and replace in it's place the Humming driver and check the configuration on both channels. If there is is problem then it has to do with driver and has to be recoiled and reconed ( ofcourse with a little quality lost) which could be done by any Speaker repair shop as per the manufacturers specifications. If the speaker works fine then the problem has to be either of the crossover network or tweeter. So remove the cross-over network from the defective speaker setup after marking it again for identification, and replace it in the good working speaker, where you now connected the humming speaker. If there is a hum, then the problem is the cross-over network, which should be replaced. If the hum is not there, again try similarly with the tweeter and I am sure you will get the Hum, and you may get a new one of similar specification from the market or get it repaired by a speaker shop. Replace the original configurations as was before. Woofer to its original places and similarly cross-over and tweeter ( as was before you opened the cabinets). Now you have identified the problem, solve the problem by repairing or replacing the culprit device. I am sure you may not have to go to all these. Perhaps it might be a loose connection or cable problem or even earthing problem. If you do not want to go through all these. Show it to a specialist with reputation ot take it to the company's service centres whose address in your area or nearby area you could get from their official site. Please note I have given my guidance on the premise that the amplifier if fine and has no problem.
Posted on Aug 22, 2007
SOURCE: 05 odoge caravan power locks
I did the thing pulling the 20am IOD fuse out and it seemed to work great! I was going to go back to the dealership.... stupidness....
My dad is a mechanic and he said that the fuse may just have to be replaced.
Posted on Sep 01, 2008
Building on what WheatService said for any other newbs (like me) who may run across this...
1) Go to Radio Shack, get yourself two of the 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors mentioned ($1.29/each) and a cheap soldering kit (mine came with solder and extras for $8). just take those numbers to the clerk, once he or she tries to sell you a couple cell phones, they should help you find the parts.
2) go home. disconnect the subwoofer from the wall, speakers, and dvd player
3) remove the 8 screws around the edge of the metal plate on back of subwoofer and carefully remove the metal plate and all the goodies attached to it. make sure to disconnect the two wires leading from the rest of the subwoofer to the circuit boards.
4) what you are looking at is two parallel circuit boards with a bunch of stuff in between them. to tell them apart, notice that one of the boards is home to a fan (amongst other things), and the other has the power cord running into it.
5) we want to remove the board that the power cord runs into, so make sure you've got the right one, and remove all of the screws which are holding it in place. again, be sure to unhook any cords before you yank off the circuit board.
6) once the board is removed, you should see two large heatsinks (pieces of metal). one is just a big rectangle that sticks straight up towards one end of the board and the other is kind of t-shaped (from the end) and a monstrosity. you'll want to look in the area between the two heat sinks but towards the smaller, rectangular one.
7) in that area, there may be some white foamy stuff sprayed around. take a look at the capacitors from radio shack and note their size. you are looking for two identical black, cylindrical capacitors roughly the same size as the ones you purchased (but a bit smaller). if you think you have the right ones, take a look at the side of them. you may have to scrape off some foamy stuff, but they should say 470uF/25V.
8) the basic idea here is that those 25V guys need to be replaced with 35V ones (the ones you bought). i'm no expert, but what worked for me is pulling lightly on the existing capacitors while melting the contact points from the bottom with the soldering tool. once those are removed, put the new ones in (push them almost all the way down so most of the wire is coming out the bottom). now turn the board back over and apply a generous bead of solder to each of the four wire points.
9) clip off the excess wire from the bottom, and marvel at your newfound expertise.
10) put the whole thing back together (steps 2-5 in reverse), remembering to connect the wires as you go.
11) turn it on and enjoy!
Posted on Apr 28, 2009
The difficulty is in finding an "exact replacement" and you may just be out of luck there. But fortunately, almost any switch that can be adapted to fit will function properly. The radio shack part number 275-691 is a DPDT switch which mounts in an approximate 3/4" hole. The leads can be directly soldered into a printed circuit board or if the board has a different hole pattern, you can simply use short jumpers to the switch location.
Here's a link to All Electronics which has 35 different sizes and configurations of rocker switches. Surely one of these will work in the Mackie.
Hope this helps.
Posted on May 14, 2009
problem could be in wiring, fuse, crossover or the components can be damaged. the original JBL tweeter and 5.25" speaker are no longer available so replacement options would be the only alternative.
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
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