All gas furnaces have a safety circuit that works off thermal sensor. Near the fire chamber their is the rollout switch(es). Most have a manual reset, but after resetting if the condition for flame rollout reoccurs, the sensor Will trip again. Sometimes the rollout switch activates because the induced fan blower is not drawing the flue gases properly, therefore the flame is not being drawn into the fire swords and rollout and causes the rollout sensor to trip.
There are typically two other temperature sensors on the safety circuit and both have to do with insufficient fresh air passing on the fresh air side. Once air has cooled down the typically reset and allow the furnace to work, but if air is impeded because of a dirty cooling coil the is attached, or due to dirty air filter, or due to a faulty blower fan. When the cause of loss of air flow is corrected the furnace should start working again.
If this does not help, please call a professional like me to determine the problem.
I recently had a customer who did every thing I mentioned above, when I got there I checked CO levels out of their registers and got detectable CO levels. On inspection his 5 burner tubes were so badly corroded I could put my hand in 4 of them. If the safety circuit had not stopped the furnace, that family would have never woke up.
All gas furnaces have a safety circuit that works off thermal sensor. Near the fire chamber their is the rollout switch(es). Most have a manual reset, but after resetting if the condition for flame rollout reoccurs, the sensor Will trip again. Sometimes the rollout switch activates because the induced fan blower is not drawing the flue gases properly, therefore the flame is not being drawn into the fire swords and rollout and causes the rollout sensor to trip.
There are typically two other temperature sensors on the safety circuit and both have to do with insufficient fresh air passing on the fresh air side. Once air has cooled down the typically reset and allow the furnace to work, but if air is impeded because of a dirty cooling coil the is attached, or due to dirty air filter, or due to a faulty blower fan. When the cause of loss of air flow is corrected the furnace should start working again.
If this does not help, please call a professional like me to determine the problem.
I recently had a customer who did every thing I mentioned above, when I got there I checked CO levels out of their registers and got detectable CO levels. On inspection his 5 burner tubes were so badly corroded I could put my hand in 4 of them. If the safety circuit had not stopped the furnace, that family would have never woke up.
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A safety is holding out the main gas valve from opening when call for heat ,check all safety switches to make sure they are closed
SOURCE: Room heater will not stay lit
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SOURCE: Natural gas hot water heater not stying lit
Probably a bad solenoid in the gas valve. Higher voltage of a new thermocouple keeps it open longer but it still fails over a period of time. Look into a new gas valve for the water heater.
SOURCE: pilot light
Hi the thermocouple is a long copper wire that goes back to the gas valve from the pilot .
i would clean the flame senser first , then check the pressure switch jump this out , then check the fan control or snap disc jump this out see if it runs if you need A THERMOCOUPLE then honeywell universal will do
SOURCE: Teledyne Laars LD250 Propane Pool heater cycles on and back off
Do you replace the thermopile or check the milivolts?
Check the Pressure gas
You need replace all of them terminals and check again the milivolts at the gas valve
SOURCE: have a dayton 3e240e heater and the fan does not
Had a similar problem where the fan wouldn't turn on but everything else worked. If you can verify that your fan isn't kaput, it's most likely the "Fan Time Delay Switch."
After a few hours of searching, you can find them on Grainger. This should be the one for your heater:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=1vld6&op=search&Ntt=1vld6&N=0&sst=subset&typeaheadSearch.x=23&typeaheadSearch.y=3
It's located in a electrical box behind the heater under the relay (at least it was on mine). Hope this helps!
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