Those are likely possibilities. Also check the wiring for disconnected or burned terminals especially in areas that get hot. The element comes out easily to visually check it for breaks. If that's OK I'd look at the safety thermostat.
You may need to do some troubleshooting. This can be done with the machine unplugged - you may have to activate the start switch, belt switch (if it has one) and the motor centrifugal switch manually.
Tip for troubleshooting 220v systems - clip one lead of a ohm meter to either L1 or L2 on the terminal block. It doesn't matter which one. According to the tech sheet (under console) follow the path for current from your clipped terminal, through the heating element, to the opposite terminal. All the readings should be less than 100 ohms, until you reach the failed part. Confirm failure by disconnecting a lead from the suspected part, and test only that part.
Live troubleshooting is sometimes slightly easier, but much more dangerous than the procedure described above. - It is definitely not recommended for beginners, or for professionals, if it can be avoided.
You deffinately have some sort of blockage in your exhaust vent, most likely in the wall. Check the outside vent on the outside of the house. The air should be blowing pretty hard. hope this helps. Dave www.washermd.com
I would start by taking off the top and checking the belt to see if part of it tore and is hitting the inside of the cabinet. I have not found a real good way to get the blowers out without having to break them sometimes. the part of the blower that you have to hold is access through the front behind the motor. problem is when you turn the motor shaft, the wrench strips out on the blower, then you have to break them, but unless you need a new motor, it should not have to come off.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:
Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)
Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity it should show OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale at 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200) ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,
OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to create a fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.
In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)
Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.
GOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE
Dryer venting issues slow drying, fire flare ups, to hot, noise and clothes ripping etc
A lint filter that is full of lint will restrict airflow and lengthen dry times. A blower wheel that is not firmly attached to the drive motor can slip and therefore not move air fast enough to properly dry clothes or even reduce airflow to the point where the high limit thermostat may trip and turn off the heat circuit. In gas dryers, defective gas valve coils can create a symptom of taking too long to dry if they are intermittent. Check for proper flame ignition for the complete dry cycle to determine if this may be the cause.
The drum seals are used to prevent excess air from entering the dryer drum and act as a cushion between the drum and the front and rear bulkheads. The drum seals are made up of a felt like material. If the seal is torn or is worn then clothing can become stuck in the gap when the drum is turning. This can produce a scraping or thumping noise and the clothes can also be ripped and/or have black marks on them. DOOR SEAL When the door is closed in gas and electric dryers the door seal helps to keep cooler air from entering the drum.
The vent tube or line itself. If it is kinked, smashed, to long, or filled, clogged with lint build up it can not only cause slow dry times but create a fire safety hazard. Try to stay away from using plastic or flimsy cellophane venting, aluminum is best!
To provide better air flow and heat dissipation try the following Note the length of your dryer vent is a determining factor in how efficient your dryer will perform. If the total length of your pipe exceeds 25 feet then your dryer simply won't be able to perform as should, especially if your pipe runs vertically and through the roof. This is where a booster fan is sometimes needed. Booster Fans provide the extra push of air to exhaust the moisture and lint to the outside. These fans operate only when the dryer is activated, this is done by sensing the air flow through the pipe by a pressure switch mechanism or an electrical sensing relay which in turn activates the booster fan blower. I personally try to avoid adding booster fans simply because they are usually placed in a crawl space or attic and are therefore "Out of sight and out of mind." What I mean is... the unit could malfunction and you would never be aware of it. The result would be a restriction in the pipe which would cause a build up of lint at the fan. In addition, it's recommended that lint traps be placed before the fan itself which has to be cleaned out frequently. These can also easily be overlooked.
Moister in the dryer:
This means that the moist air is not escaping correctly and that is why it is taking so long to dry your clothes - if they dry at all.
a good start at cleaning out lint blocked areas, I suggest go to the back of the dryer and take off the vent pipe or hose and check things out with a flashlight. Clean out all the lint and dust you can, even use a vacuum cleaner on it. Make sure the vent pipe is completely clear of any obstructions.Non-rigid ventshas much worse air flow than smooth piping, so you might want to upgrade tosmooth piping.
Once you have all the lint and dust cleaned out of the dryer, go to where the dryer vents outside. Again, clean the area thoroughly. There is usually a trap door that opens when the dryer air is on and closes when it is not operating. It should be completely clear of lint and opening smoothly.
Also, look into the exhaust area on the dryer carefully to see if there is a hole or gap in the dryer's internal air ducting. Without the vent pipe connected and with no clothes in the dryer, start it and let if run for a few seconds and make sure there is strong air flow from the exhaust port. You should feel it strongly on your hand.
Re-connect the vent pipe and start the dryer again. Feel all around the bottom to see if any air is blowing out from under the bottom. This would indicate there is a break or gap in the dryer's internal ducting. If you do feel air, you will need to call a service technician to see if it can be repaired. If your dryer is very old, there could be a rust hole in the duct.
·Poor venting is a common reason why water might leak into a clothes dryer. Since the dryer works to expel moisture, it is important that the dryer's vents are properly installed so that the humidity can escape.
·If the humidity in the dryer is trapped, it will eventually turn to water. This will lead to poor drying results or longer drying times, depending on the amount of leakage.
·Faulty dryer venting can be prevented by making sure that the humidity is directed outdoors. Also, vents should be cleaned of lint and other debris before each load so that water can readily escape. Taking these precautions can ensure that the moisture will meet dry, open air.
Read more :http://www.ehow.com/facts_7167266_would-water-dryer_.
Good Morning David, thank you for allowing me to assist you!
I understand your dryer is experiencing lack of heat. There are several factors that could cause this; some of which you can check prior to scheduling a professional.
Have you checked your lint filter recently? I ask because if a lint filter is full of lint it will restrict airflow and lengthen dry times. To keep your dryer working correctly, clean out the lint folder area after each and every use. Check the lint filter for any buildup of fabric softener that will also restrict airflow and wash with soapy water to clean. If the filter is damaged then it will need to be replaced.
Additionally to checking the lint trap area, please investigate the ventilation (duct work) system connecting to your dryer. Often we forget to clean this duct work therefore over time debris can restrict air flow. Check the air flow by disconnecting the accordion-like duct work from the dryer appliance. Run a drying cycle, with clothes inside the unit, but keeping the duct work disconnected. If you notice any improvement, then the ventilation duct work (often going through your floor or side wall) will need to be thoroughly cleaned. Also make sure you do not have multiple turns or kinks in the duct work. The more curves or turns this duct system has to take to exit the air outside, the more restricted it can get. The more restriction you experience the more time it will take the unit to dry.
Do you notice any unusual rumbling or rubbing noise when in use? This could indicate a faulty blower wheel. A blower wheel that is not firmly attached to the motor can slip and therefore not move air fast enough to properly dry clothes or even reduce airflow to the point where the high limit thermostat (a fuse like component) may trip and turn off the heat circuit. A loose blower wheel will usually make a rumbling noise that is easily noticed. Inspecting the blower wheel is usually a task for a professional considering you must take apart most of your appliance to make sure it is tight to the motor shaft.
If you have a gas dryer, gas valves could also cause you an issue. Defective gas valves can create a symptom of taking too long to dry if they are intermittent and require professional attention. A professional is needed to check for proper flame ignition for a complete drying cycle to determine if this may be your point of concern.
On many dryers you will find "drum seals" in between the unit's drum and the front door. The drum seals are used to prevent excess air from entering the dryer drum and act as a cushion between the drum and the front and rear access. The drum seals are made up of a felt like material. If the seal is torn, or is worn, then clothing can become stuck in the gap when the drum is turning. This can produce a scraping or thumping noise and the clothes can also be ripped and/or have black marks on them. This will also affect your drying time tremendously.
While you are checking the drum seals please check the door of your dryer as well. When the door is closed in gas and electric dryers the door seal helps to keep cooler air from entering the drum. Keeping the correct temperature at all times inside the dryer ensures that the clothes will dry efficiently. If clothes are not drying then inspect the door seal for signs that it may be worn or damaged.
If none of the above solutions prove to be successful, it would be advisable to contact an experiencing repair tech to assist further.
if the flame is liting most likely problem is bad air movement.go outside with thedryer running and check the hood to see how strong the air is blowing out,if there's a cage or anything blocking the hood remove it,if the vent line is a long run remove the vent line from the back of the dryer,stick a leaf blower into it and blow out the lint to the outside.also with the dryer unplugged,remove the bottom panel,remove the lint filter and metal duct the filter slides into,clean that out and blow out the blower wheel with a shop vac,you can blow out the gas tube where the flame ignites to make sure it's clean blow off the motor and the cabinet and vac up all lint that blows forwards.you can try running the dryer with the vent line removed to see if it runs any better.when the dryer first heats up the flame will come on until the temp. is reached and it will shut down,one more thing to check,when gas coils start to fail you'll have heat for like the first 15 to 30 minutes,then when the coils heat up the ignitor will glow but no flame,after the coils cool down they will work again.how are you running it on timed dry or more or less dry,if you run it on auto or more or less dry there's a sensor inside where the lint filter is,try cleaning it up or try running it on timed dry to see if it runs any different,when on auto the heat comes on,when it reaches temp. the heat stops and the timer will advance,when it calls for heat the timer stops and the heat comes back on,it will do this until the clothes are dry.your model has an even heat board in it that can also cause problems but if the flame is liting it sounds like you have a block somewhere.go here this will tell you a little more about your model dryer. http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/03/17/easy-fixes-for-two-common-problems-with-the-whirlpool-even-heat-dryers/
The usual reason a dryer will heat yet not dry the clothes is going to be a air flow problem. What ya need to check is for a blocked vent and or lint build up in the blower assambly.
By far though a leading cause of that on Maytag dryers is a broken blower wheel and therefore no warm air is being drawnthrough the clothes,to check that remove the front panel and the front drum support and in the lower left corner will be the blower asm. check to see if it moves free and doesnt seem to be attached to the motor shaft.
First, of course, make sure ALL the airways are clear, including the area around the lint filter, and the outside vent - lint likes to stick to the outside vent flap, so make sure you clean that off too, and that it opens and closes freely.
if it's heating and cycling try running it with the vent line off the back of dryer,also go outside and make sure the flapper is opening and nothing is blocking it,when was the last time you cleaned the dryer?you need to clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into,vac out the inside of dryer where the motor is and if you have a long vent line from the back of dryer to outside vent i use a leaf blower to clean out the line,also if you have a shop vac blow off the motor and you can blow all the lint from the back of the inside of dryer to the front so you don't have to remove the drum
Sometimes blower wheels will get loose in dryers. Sometimes they will get a whole lump of lint in them or you can hear a rattling noise in the dryer, this is the blower wheel, its worn out and it can cause the fuse to blow too,or it can half *** work and take fifty forever's to dry the clothes.Or it could be just that the dryer needs a good blowing out .I use a lawn blower to get all the lint out of the dryer as well as the vent pipe and vent to outside. I take the filter HOUSING out and wash it also. That is, I remove the housing and clean is good! Making sure that the dryer is properly flowing air is a good thing!
unplug the dryer.
Open the top lid.
Remove the front panel.
Inspect the blower wheel attached to the motor.
If it moves on the motor shaft replace it.
If iy does not move on the motor shaft, clean the lint out of the exhaust from the blower wheel to the rear of the dryer.
A1Pull the dryer out away from the wall. Unhook the vent from the dryer completely. Do not put anything over the dryer exhaust on the back of the dryer. Do a normal load with the vent unhooked. If it dries better or ok like this then the problem is in the dryer venting. Like a blocked vent pipe or a smashed or restricted vent hose. A2 - If the vent doesn't make a difference, then check the blower wheel for excessive lint build up, check that there isn't anything stuck to the air intake baffle inside the drum, (i.e. the screen on the back wall of the dryer when looking into the drum). Check the lint filter chute for blockage. Check that the heating element isn't shorted to ground. Check the exhaust temperature of the dryer. A meat or pocket thermometer can be used for this. It should cycle between 120 degrees and 170 degrees. Check that the drum seals to make sure the are not worn out.