Hi!
Please check the troubleshooting part of the manual to this fridge. Hope it will be helpful!
https://manualsbrain.com/en/manuals/1872784/?page=42
SOURCE: fridge freezer door alarm continuously beeping
make sure gasket is sealing also make sure light is going out.
SOURCE: Bosch Fridge Freezer KGU3200GB/01 alarm beeping temp rising
Is your circulating fan working?
Sometimes they stick and need a shot of WD 40 and then work
it back and forth a little until it wants to take off again. Keep me informed
and PLEASE give a Thumbs Up for the effort. The Raz Shack
SOURCE: Problem with Fisher & Paykel
so both the freezer and the frigerator are both warm then? If this is the case then you can try to remove the rear panel down where the compressor is leave machine off for about ten minutes then plug the machine back in there isa small box like unit or relay on the side of the compressor if your hearing it click on and off or if you disconnect the wires going to it and shake it lightly to hear if something is rattleing on the inside also if you have a multimeter and a pair of needle nose you can do this to test the relay Remove the cover on the compressor relay box. The cover is usually held in place by retaining clips or tension clips. There are usually three components inside this box: the compressor relay, the compressor motor terminals and the overload protector. The compressor relay is the largest component and will either be wirewound or solid state. If the part is solid state, then you will have to have a professional test the part, as it requires specific equipment for testing. If you have a wirewound relay, pull it straight off of the compressor. Use a pair of needlenose pliers to pull the connector off of the relay's terminal. Be sure to pull it off by grasping the connector and NOT the wire. Check both the wire connector and the compressor relay for any signs of corrosion. After you dust the relay off, take a good look at it. You should see two plug-type terminals marked "S" and "M" and the slip-on terminal marked "L." Set your multitester to read ohms (usually the X1 or RX1 setting). Set the relay on a flat surface so that the "S" and "M" terminals are on the bottom. Insert one probe of your tester into the "S" terminal and one in the "M" terminal. Your tester should have a reading of "zero" ohms. Keeping the probes inserted in the terminals, turn the relay over. You should hear an audible "click" and the tester's reading should change from "zero" to "infinity." Turn the relay back over. Now, touch one probe to the "S" terminal and the other probe to the "L" terminal. The tester should read "zero" ohms. Turn it over again with the probes still on the terminals and the tester should read "infinity." Turn the relay back over. Now, touch one probe to the "M" terminal and the other to the "L" terminal. The tester should read "zero" ohms. Turn the relay over with the probes still in place and the tester's reading should not change -- it will remain at zero ohms. If your compressor relay passes this series of tests, then your relay is not the problem with your refrigerator. If it fails any one of these tests, then take it to an appliance parts shop and purchase a replacement. Replace everything back in its original position and be sure to remove the 20-ohm resistor from the capacitor before plugging the refrigerator back in. note if you are unable to perform these tests please call a technician if you have any further questions please message me back as well as please remember to rate how this opinion has helped in your appliance repair all in all if your machine is warm its either the relay or the compressor Thanks again Rick
SOURCE: I have an fisher and
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly Diagnostic Mode To enter diagnostic modes, press and hold the MENU button - then press the UP button for 4 seconds. The PC temperature will be displayed on the LCD. The actual temperature of the PC is shown. Note Temperatures are shown in Degrees Centigrade. PC Sensor Temperature ____ - By pressing the Up button once more, this will indicate the FC sensor temperature. Note: The "min" indicates minus 12°C FC Sensor Temperature - By pressing the Up button once more, this will indicate the Defrost sensor temperature. Defrost Sensor Temperature - By pressing the Up button once more, this will indicate the input/Output Status. Input/Output Status - Press UP one and two more time, both LCDs display 87.5 but should be ignored Spare/ Blanks - Press UP one more time and fault history will be shown. Fault History To exit diagnostic mode press MENU button FAULT CODES: A wrench symbol and LCD fault code will appear automatically if there is a fault in the temperature measuring system, defrost system, fans or low ambient heater. When the PC door is opened an alarm will sound, the number of beeps also indicates the fault code. Pressing any of the control buttons can deactivate these alarms Fault Code 1 Reason: On last power up, the power module failed self test. Primary Action: Replace power module Fault Code 2 Reason: The previous 2 defrosts were aborted after 30 minutes Primary Action: Check defrost element Fault Code 3 Reason: The resistance of all the temperature sensors is outside the normal range (>45K Ohms) Primary Action: Check 6 -way Rast connector at power module Fault Code 4 Reason: The resistance of all the temperature sensors is outside the normal range (
Primary Action: Check 6 -way Rast connector at power module Fault Code 5 Reason: The resistance of the FC sensors is outside the normal range (>45K Ohms) Primary Action: Check sensor connector at power module Fault Code 6 Reason: The resistance of the FC sensors is outside the normal range (
Primary Action: Check sensor connector at power module Fault Code 7 Reason: The resistance of the Defrost sensor is outside the normal range (>45K Ohms) Primary Action: Check sensor connector at power module Fault Code 8 Reason: The resistance of the Defrost sensor is outside the normal range (
Primary Action: Check sensor connector Fault Code 9 Reason: The resistance of the PC sensors is outside the normal range (>45K Ohms) Primary Action: Check sensor connector Fault Code 10 Reason: The resistance of the PC sensors is outside the normal range (
Primary Action: Check sensor connector Fault Code 11 Reason: The current for the LAH, PC &FC Fan is lower than expected Primary Action: Check the 6 way fan/LAH, connector at module. Fault Code 12 Reason: The current for the LAH, PC &FC Fan is higher than expected Primary Action: Check the 6 way fan/LAH, connector at module. Fault Code 13 Reason: LAH is drawing less current than expected. Primary Action: LAH open circuit Fault Code 14 Reason: LAH is drawing higher current than expected. Primary Action: Check wiring connection Fault Code 15 Reason: PC fan is drawing less current than expected. Primary Action: PC fan open circuit Fault Code 16 Reason: PC fan is drawing higher than expected current Primary Action: Check fan wiring or connections Fault Code 17 Reason: FC fan is drawing less current than expected. Primary Action: FC fan open circuit Fault Code 18 Reason: FC fan is drawing higher current than expected. Primary Action: Check FC fan & wiring circuit Thanks for choosing FixYa, Kelly
You should enter the diagnostic mode to determin your fault:
There are also Ice maker faults that are NOT included above. This should get you started and if everything passes above diagnosis the problem is most likely in your ice maker circuit. The reason I did not include ice maker faults is because they do not cause alarms.
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