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erica murray Posted on Feb 26, 2019
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How do you test part # 241973711. cant find any test info on my refrig kenmore 25370312211. already replaced main control board and evap fan.

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geob91

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  • Refrigerators Expert 128 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 02, 2019
geob91
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Hi.. I would like to know what error code you were getting along with the symptoms and what the display is showing. If you replaced the main board and the evap fan, I am guessing that you had sy ef showing. There is also sy ce which is a communication error between the main control and the display board. If sy ce is showing then most likely both boards will need to be replaced.
This could also be caused by a shorted wire between the two and would need to be checked individually. I like to make sure it is not just a loose harness at the top of the left door just under the trim cap.
Please provide more information so we can help you diagnose the issue. Thanks!

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 10 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 25, 2008

SOURCE: kenmore frige model 59658692890 evap fan will not start

It won't run if unit is stuck in defrost.

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Sea Breeze

John Tripp

  • 4656 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 05, 2009

SOURCE: evaporator coil freezing, replaced main control

It is possible you have a defective fan motor in the condenser area or evaporator area. Sometimes when they become defective they will run for a while and just warm up and stop while the compressor continues to run. I learned that one on four costly returns to the home. The cost was to me not the customer. Thanks, Sea Breeze

kapishtech

raj somaiya

  • 2272 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 30, 2010

SOURCE: GE Profile Top-Freezer PTS22LBNARCC Unit was

In order to ensure proper temperatures, you need to permit airflow between the refrigerator and freezer sections. As shown in the illustration, cool air from the refrigerator enters through the bottom of the freezer section and moves upward. Most of the air then flows through the freezer section vents and recirculates under the freezer floor. The rest of the air enters the refrigerator section through the top vent and flows down the back of the refrigerator compartment.
Ensure that none of the air vents are blocked. If an item is placed near a vent, it may block the flow of air to the refrigerator, which may cause temperature and moisture problems. Move the item away from the air vent.
Adding a large amount of food warms the refrigerator. It could take several hours to return to the normal temperature after food is added.
If the refrigerator is in defrost mode, the freezer compartment temperature will be warmer than usual. Allow 20 minutes, and then the freezer should be back in normal cooling mode.
Things to check: The coils underneath clean?
Is the fan in the back running. You can tell if this is not work because the middle wall will be really hot where the doors touch it. Is there frost in the back of the freezer? Do you hear the fan running in the freezer? You will only here it when the compressor is running, this is true also for the fan in the back.

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these refrigerators have a damper control basically a motor with a vent that opens when its too hot in the fresh food side and closes when its too cold.its very common for the motors to go out or freeze up at short out then the fresh food side will freeze up because the vent is wide open no matter what setting.
Refrigerator air inlet cover/damper kit with fan motor. Damper and fan assembly has been updated to prevent freezing in the refrigerator.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com

Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.



woodchuck789

Charles T Nevin

  • 4070 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 13, 2011

SOURCE: g.e refrig gsh25jre makes a clicking noise refrig

The clicking noise means the computer board is bad. It will have to be replaced.

Anonymous

  • 10515 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 07, 2011

SOURCE: Samsung refrigerator model #RS2533SW sserial#755843CTA02409

Hi,

This is a common problem. The situation you mentioned is highly suggestive of faulty control board ( or call as motherboard ). You could try to unplug the refrigerator for few minutes, say 15 minutes and then turn it ON. If you do not see any improvement, it would confirm faulty control board and needs replacement.

However, there were few models in the past which had a reset option where you need to hold the power up and power freeze pads at the same time until their little lights come on then you press a small square button on the ice-maker then the compressor and fans start up.

Thanks and Regards
taran_2005

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

SY EF error already replaced evap fan and board. Still not working any ideas?

Call a local repair service. Possibly a bad control board that we DIYER's can not change out if we could even get one.
0helpful
1answer

Kenmore refrigerator 253.7031 touch panel reads freezer temperature 5Y refrigerator temperature EF. What does it mean. refrigerator is getting very warm 71 Fahrenheit

The EF SY code indicates the evaporator fan circuit has failed or the sensor isn't registering cold air flow. Since the fridge is warm, the fan isn't running. You'll need to check the fan motor and the control board wiring. Unplug the refrigerator before checking the wiring. (You'll need a multimeter to check for continuity/voltages/resistance in those wires. You can use a 9V battery to check if the fan works. It's a DC motor; connect the red and yellow wires to the positive terminal of the battery. Connect the brown wire (on some models) to the negative terminal. Check the wiring harness for corrosion as well. The fan is at the back of the refrigerator. The control board is on the bottom, behind the toe kick plate.

If the fan motor is good, then the control board is bad. The fan motor is part 60 here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/kenmore-refrigerator-parts/model-25370312211/0582/0161000/R1209145/00005.html . The control board is part 50 on the same page. It may be better to replace both parts at once.

You should also check if the fan has been freezing up. If the refrigerant system is leaking, ice build up on the fan can stop it from spinning. This will cause the fan motor to fail but the replacement part will fail again if the ice build up problem isn't solved first.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells
1helpful
1answer

Kenmore 106.54584400 fridge warm, air baffle No open in normal ops. in test mode opens and closes but evap fan does not run. fan motor runs during normal ops. thermistors good in test mode.

I would meter test the evap fan it may have gone out cuz if it was ur defrost timer or cold control you would have no motor condenser fan working either? and no cold control damper working in test mode?
is the fan impeeded or just not moving?

kenmore-106-54584400-fridge-warm-air-1qvynlgglfdkvwxnnfoef50k-2-0.jpg

kenmore-106-54584400-fridge-warm-air-1qvynlgglfdkvwxnnfoef50k-2-2.jpg

kenmore-106-54584400-fridge-warm-air-1qvynlgglfdkvwxnnfoef50k-2-5.jpg

kenmore-106-54584400-fridge-warm-air-1qvynlgglfdkvwxnnfoef50k-2-9.jpg

kenmore-106-54584400-fridge-warm-air-1qvynlgglfdkvwxnnfoef50k-2-14.jpg
4helpful
1answer

Problems for Refrig. Kenmore Elite

The Er DH error code indicates the temperature sensor on the evaporator coil did not reach 50 degrees within one hour.
This would indicate the control board did put the refrigerator through a defrost cycle.

This problem could be caused by a defective relay on the control board, a defective defrost heater, a broken wire to the heater, or a stopped up drain on the defrost pan causing ice to form on the evaporator coil.

Before replacing the control board, someone should remove the food from the freezer, remove the freezer drawer, and remove the evaporator cover to expose the evaporator coil, heater, and defrost sensor.
The voltage to the defrost heater should be 120 volts ac.
The defrost heater is part of the evaporator coil and is not replaceable as a separate part.

You can test the operation of the defrost system by pressing "Ultra Ice" and "colder freezer temp" for 3 seconds.
The first time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and open the damper.

All displays should be on.


The second time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and close the damper.

The third time you press and hold the buttons, the board will turn the compressor and fan off and turn the defrost heater on for around 25 minutes. This would let you know if the defrost system is working.


http://knol.google.com/k/fixing-the-er-dh-code-on-kenmore-elite-trio#

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2helpful
2answers
1helpful
1answer

HELP!!__CALLING ANY GE FACTORY TECHS

You say " all thermistors check fine " , how did you check them ? Did you check for the 5-8 DC volts at the main control board , for the thermistors ? Did you do the diagnostic check for the thermistors from the control panel ? I'm sure you know there are 5 thermistors , since the refrig has the dual evap . Possibly the # 5 is bad , since it is the freezer temp " controller " , yet if it tells the board it's not cold enough , it still sends refrigerant to the refrig evap . Since the refrig evap has 2 fan motors , can't remember if there is a damper there also . Maybe when the # 3 thermistor is satisfied , it only cuts the fans off , even though refrigerant is still going thru the refrig evap .
1helpful
1answer

Not circulating air

You will need to have your door gasket seals inspected and possibly replaced.

Then you might want to check behind the back cover of your freezer and look for ice build up and excess frost on your evap coils - this indicates seld defrosting problems - and the symptoms are functioning compressor and evap fan but air is not cool enough - Once you manually defrost those with a dryer and let your unit cool for a few hours, if it comes back to normal you know you have a defrost problem and will need to have your control board / defrost components checked.

Also - you might want to have them check your damper system it might be shut or not opening to let the air from your freezer in your refrigerator. (if applicable)

0helpful
1answer

GE GSH25JSTASS doesn't freeze or cool

Ok, first off, replace all thermistors, freezer (2) & refrig (2). Then check that evap fan is working properly. This is a DC volt fan, not ac volt. There have been some issues with these, I would replace if problem continues.

How this box works, main control board monitors everything from how many times doors are open, how long they are open, how and when I/M drops ice, etc.... Every so many hours, depending on how many times the doors are open, you got ice thru the door, etc... it will shut down and go into defrost mode. When it is time for defrost mode it will run refrig into a "sub zero" state, shut down evap fan, run deeper into sub zero effect, shut down compressor when the thermistors say it's cold enough, turn on defrost heater that melts any frost in evap, then turn compressor back on for a few minutes, then turn evap fan back on. Most techs think that the mother board is defective when in fact the thermistors are not measuring temps correctly within the whole unit. If the thermistor say, hey mother board I'm only 60 degrees in the freezer, then it will keep running the compressor trying to get to zero or -1 or till the darn thing freezes up and stops moving air.

Find another tech to work on your unit, one that has some electronics background and/or computer knowledge. It takes a electronics & computer degree to work on these units and understand how they function.

Doors, some of the new frigs have magnetic door gaskets, if it is not staying shut, replace door gaskets. If door stay open or is leaking air (especially around ice shoot) it can cause some really weird stuff to occur, like thermistors saying I'm cold at the inlet to evap but not at the top of evap and mother board will try to correct it's self by running longer. One other thing about door gaskets, if the drain plug in the evap area is frozen or plugged up, doors won't shut properly and stay shut.

For one thousand dollars, I'll come to Florida and fix for you, 200 to fix refrig and the rest for a good time at Disney World (LOL). Good luck. Contact GE for repair on this unit if you can't get good results from your repairman. Their people, like me, go thru extensive training on these boxes. You can thank our goverment for the energy codes that have gone into effect over the years requiring mfgs to have to keep the cost of running these refrigs down as low as possible, the only way to do this was to computerize these boxes. Good luck
2helpful
2answers

Bottom cools and top cools but dose not freeze . Do not heart fan when frezzer is opened.

you do not hear the fan ? your evaporator fan is not working - shut off everything and remove freezer panel look for any excess ice or frust blocking the fan - if everything is clear try spinning the fan blades with your hands, is there any resistence or it spins freely ? Put back cover and turn it on - if fan fails to spin then you have to get it serviced and change the evap fan motor assembly or check the control board.
your unit won't cool if the fan is not working or working erratically.
1helpful
1answer

Kenmore 253.4450960 keeps flashing E F at panel on fridge side; also alot of ice build-up in freezer.

Shut down your refrigerator and unplug it for a few minutes - plug it back in and turn back on to see if it resets your control board - if problem persists you may have to get it serviced and have them check the control board, evap fan and defrost timer. there should be no frost build up in your freezer, if your unit is a frost free, auto defrost, it should go through a defrost cycle. maybe your evap fan is plugged up with ice buildup or if your evap fan is working properly, a control board issue.

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