SOURCE: technics mk2 tone arm replacement
once you soldered to circuit board place - this might help Advanced Tonearm stuff Tightening the suspension on your tonearm Some TT's have tonearms which seem to be loose. If you grab the tonearm and pull it gently back and forth and it seems loose you can tighten it. It shouldn't move at all. A loose suspension can severely affect it's performance - from jumping needles to binding. It's pretty easy to tighten the suspension. You'll need a small flat screwdriver and a large one. Use the large one to loosen the outer locking screw on the top of the pivot point. Now use the smaller screwdriver to loosen up the smaller screw. Put a drop of oil where the bearings are (under that top support on the other end of the adjustment screw) so that it doesn't bind. Now tighten the small screw slowly until it just contacts the bearings. Adjust the tightness so the tonearm doesn't wiggle if you pull on it but leave it loose enough for the tonearm to pivot freely without binding. Adjust carefully and don't overtighten otherwise the bearings will be damaged! When done, tighten up the locking screw. Tightening up the headshell locking ring Have you put on your headshell, twisted that knurled tightener at the end of the tonearm as tight as possible and have found that the headshell still moves around? What will happen is that the headshell won't sit parallel to the record but may be tilted as a result of twisting of the headshell. This usually occurs when you change headshells a lot or if you've had your turntable for a while, and can contribute to needle jumping so here's what you do to fix it. First read 3.2 on base disassembly. Remove the rubber base. There will be this big piece of hard black plastic covering almost everything. You'll need to remove it. To remove the tonearm assembly look for three screws (all formerly under that black plastic) and unscrew them. Be careful not to drop the tonearm when you remove that last screw! Now, remove the tonearm assembly from the rest of the 1200, and look at the bottom of the tonearm where the headshell is put in. There will be two tiny philips screws there. Get a jewelers screwdriver of the CORRECT size and tighten those up. Put the headshell on and try wiggling it to make sure everything is right. Now put your tonearm back on and close everything back up. hope this helps peace DJ Nyce
SOURCE: Cueing Problems on Technics SL-1300MK2
Usually the damping fluid is to let the tone arm lower slowly, lifting is usually a mechanical link. Read THIS.
Hope that helps...
Geno
SOURCE: fisher turntable mt 6410 removal
Look at spindle bearing in center of t-table. There is probably a small ring lock there holding the table. Use a pick or small screw driver to carefully remove this ring.
SOURCE: Technics SL-23 belt driven turntable (NOT SL-1210 but I had to enter something)
Howdy Ivy:
An Adobe PDF format service manual for the Technics SL-23 turntable can be downloaded from
http://www.servicemanuals.net/
for about $16.
Good luck!
Paul H.
SOURCE: fisher turntable mc-715 has power but table won't
What's likely is that the belt that drives the turntable has snapped. The MC-715 is a mid-late 80's model, so the rubber the belt is made of has had it. A google search for mc-715 belt will turn up a source for a new belt, which you can install fairly easily. There should (though it may be missing) be a hub in center of the platter that you turn to allow playback of 45's. This is removable, simply fit a flathead screwdriver into the side where the raised lines are and pry it away. If it's already missing, then don't worry about it.
You should now see the spindle (silver metal axle/pole that the platter revolves around). At the base of the spindle there will be a black metal circlip. This holds the platter down, and it will have to be removed. Use the flathead screwdriver again to pry it off. You should be able to do this by putting the tip of the screwdriver into one of the two openings on the circlip and using a twisting/prying motion. Once this is off, simply lift the platter off. Remove what's left of the old belt. Even if the old belt is still in one piece, chances are it's too stretched out to be of any use anymore. You will see a track for the belt on the underside of the platter. Put the new belt around this. It will be too loose be a little, but this is to allow for it to stretch and reach the motor spindle (the brass colored spindle off to the right on the now-exposed inner workings.
Along the rim of the underside of the platter you'll see a little plastic peg. Hook the belt onto this. Now, put the platter back on the silver spindle in such a way that the triangular hole where the belt is pulled away from its track by the bit you hooked onto that peg goes over the brass spindle. Once it's down and secure (you may have to wiggle it a little in order for the little gear on the underside to line up correctly) you should turn the platter clockwise. In theory, this should cause the brass spindle to pull the belt off the little peg and onto itself, thus connecting the belt with the drive motor. At this point, move the needle off its stand to see if the belt connected. If not, just repeat the belt-peg-spindle part. It may take a few tries, but it will work sooner or later. After it's turning properly, just replace the circlip that holds the platter down (you'll probably want a pair of pliars to push it on, it's a stiff little thing), and replace the plastic 45 adapter.
Good luck!
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