Can someone tell me what type/brand of cassette 8 speed 11-32 teeth are compatible with the 2006 Mongoose TYAX Elite Pro

Draco hydrolic disc brake pads. would take that pad with me to bike shop to insure you get it on first try ask if they have any used one they would part with to save $$$$.

To remove any rear freewheel or cassette you will need to purchase a Park Tool. Park Tool is the best brand when it comes to bike repair. Google Park Tool and you can look through their products. You will need a cassette/freewheel remover. There are dozens of different companies that make hubs and cassettes (gear sprocket). Take a look at yours and see what company made it. You can than find out which tool with properly fit your cassette. These tools are made to fit in a wrench making hand removal easy. Some brands will require a chain whip. The only way you will know which too you need is by find the company name on the cassette/hub. Without this tool removal is virtually impossible. If you need help narrowing down which cassette remover you need you can always let me know the company name and I will let you know the proper cassette tool to purchase.

Cassettes are replaceable as is everything except the frame. I'd guess if the gears are worn so is the chain. Parts only = $70-ish? Look on eBay. Don't buy those parts used.

Someone with a knowledgeable eyeball on the problem needs to look at where they break and figure out why. Your life depends on it. We can't see what is happening.

No, if it's disc you need to make sure the hole pattern is the same if you want to be able to swap discs around (minimal setback). Then you need to get a disc that's the same size as the one you had because wheels don't normally come with the discs on them.

The rim width is not a BIG deal within reason. Try to match the remaining rim.

If it's a rim-brake style it doesn't matter so much.

In either case make sure it comes with a cassette body that is 8-speed compatible. Then you need a gear cluster.

http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html

If the chain has significant miles on it you might as well get one of those too or it may be too worn to mesh properly with the new gears and it will prematurely destroy them if it works at all. Specify 8-speed as they come in different widths.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html

http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

Believe it or not, taking the bike to a shop and letting them replace the wheel will be the fastest and least expensive solution unless you already have the knowledge and special tools required for cassette and chain service.

Nope. Campi and Shimano casette bodies are TOTALLY INcompatible, BUT I have had good luck with finding Campi casettes online (eBay) and having no interchange problems between my wheels and Shimano or Campi 9-speed shifters and derailleurs on several bikes. I switch wheels without concern for the other hardware.

http://desc.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=campagnolo+8-speed+cassette&_sacat=0&_odkw=campi+8-speed+cassette&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313&LH_TitleDesc=1&_rdc=1

Within Campi there may be incompatibilities, though. If your wheels have an 8-speed Campi cassette now I think you'll be ok.

yes

The only way to adjust the "tension" of the chain is to remove links. You will need a chain breaker tool. Shift the bike into the biggest chain ring and the biggest cog of the cassette, then break the chain, leaving the pin partially in the link but far enough out that the chain separates. Now, pull the chain together so that the rear derailleur's arm is as horizontal as possible and aiming toward the crank. Break the appropriate link to connect the chain so the derailleur stays in that position and reattach the chain using the pin you left partially engaged.

i hope this helps
-matthew

the quickest way I find:





is to take to it with a sledge hammer, sure some of the parts end up getting a tad damaged but it works all tje same, have funnnnn

The rear cassette is only a part of the solution. The front gearset also comes with a variety of ring/teeth configurations.
Plenty on new bikes come with a 'compact' gearset (2 front rings, 10 speed rear cassette). That is generally a lower gear ration to aid in hill climbing.
The rear cassettes are easily interchanged (must be same brand as what the hub uses). Of the 3 you listed; the 11-26 would be "Fastest".

If you want to go fast, and are fit enough to power it at speed for a good duration... look for a large crank ring (greatest number of teeth) and a small cassette # (like the 11-26 you listed). It's a sinple ratio calculation. What you're looking for is the most amount of rear wheel rotations per crank rotation. That is achieved by a big (lots of teeth) front ring and a small (not many teeth) rear cassette ring.

While at the bike store, put the bike in it's highest gear (biggest ring on the crankset, smallest ring on the wheel cassette). Lift the rear wheel off the ground and count the amount of rear wheel rotations for 1 crank rotaion.

A triathalon/time-trial bike will come with a ratio of about 5.5-6.5 rotatotions of the rear wheel for each rotation of the crank.
An endurance road bike (with compact gearset) might come with about 4.25 rear wheel rotations for each crank rotation.

Tri/TT bikes are made to put the rider in the most areodynamic position possible thereby reducing the wind drag and making pedaling easier (so you can manage a higher gear ratio). Endurance road bikes are designed to put the rider in a confortable position (more upright) for all day riding.

Get the bike shop to fit you properly to the bike you choose, not all shops offer this. There are professional bike fitters that can help you when you get close.

Hope that helps