Question about Air Tools & Compressors
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The new units have all of your schematics, capacitor and a higher price for a reason. With GE I avoid used parts because there is so much electronics you don't want to fry. The wire harness leads match the old and there should not be an extra wire, were would it go if there is not a receptacle for it?
I looked up your unit and the motor replacement is WH20X10009 for the model you quoted. As of now GE is has updated this to model wh20x10006 for around 263 dollars.
Posted on Oct 03, 2008
I had the same tripped breaker problem with a similar Sears model 919.195060 (25 gal) and luckily I had access to another, almost identical sears compressor to swap parts to diagnosis it. It turned out to be the run capacitor, but from what I was finding in my on-line research, it could have been a bad winding on the motor or the start capacitor just as easily. If your resistor is outside of the capacitor, just cut the wire right at the capacitor and add flag termnals Mine had 3 wires coming out of the capacitor (not the normal terminal cap style), and two of them were basically just tied together (same color). I didn't have an external resistor. I bought a GE 97F9614 run capacitor (40 mf, 370vac) and other than having to cut out a bit of the plastic on the mounting bracket and buying "flag" style 1/4" terinals from radioshack, it fit and worked perfectly. It seems if GE is the only one that has the right dimensions (1.75dia x 3.88 long, not including the terminals. That capacitor cost $27.50 with tax at a local electric motor shop. Sears doesn't even have any info on the motor parts, like capacitor - they want to sell you a new motor for almost as much as a new whole compressor. I ended up looking at parts forr the motor on a Devilbliss (that's what the 919 means on the model number, that it's made by Devilbliss), but it was not an easy way to go and really didn't help that much). The easier/normal way of matching capacitors is to measure the case dimensions carefully and match up the voltage and uf (or mf) specs,
Posted on Dec 22, 2008
It sounds like either the check valve or the switch that lets the air pressure off of the pressure switch is broke. After the compressor pumps to shut off pressure, when it shuts off, it should let a short burst of air from the switch. If it does this, that parts good. Give it a little time, then manually push that plunger on the switch.( you're trying to see if the check valve, which is a one way valve, is leaking air back into the cylinder) If air is release from that plunger, the check valve is leaking and will not let the compressor start, because air has leaked back into the cylinder.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
sounds like you need a new check valve which should be somewhere between the compressor outlet piping,tubing,etc and the tank which prevents the air in tank to back feed to the compressor which would cause hard starting and could damage the motor easy way to check is when you shut off the compressor with some air in the tank if the check valve is bad it would continue to bleed air out out the unloader valve .the unloader valve on your unit is most likely part of the pressure switch when the unit shuts of it should only bleed down the pressure in the pump so it would make it easy to start when needed hope i didn't confuse you
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
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