I am talking about the garage door opener the button on the wall will not open the garage, we have replaced the battery on the opener but still it refuses to open.

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Replace button on wall. Check wiring between button and opener.
Look at product manual and see if manual has troubleshoot section.
If there is no wire between wall button and opener, the remote may be one of those 'self learning' unit and may have to be reprogrammed. And -or battery replaced.
Otherwise the wall button connects directly to circuit board on opener, and cannot be repaired without ... parts, schematic, electronic knowledge.
Replace garage door opener.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Liftmaster-garage-door-manual.pdf
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Perhaps the wall opener control needs to be accepted by the opener, press the button on the opener head unit and then press the wall switch. Consider new batteries before you do so.

Make sure the green light in the wall control is not flashing. That locks out the remote. If it is press and hold for 3 seconds the lock button on the wall control. It could just be that your remote has failed.

Look at the LED light next to the SMART/LEARN button on rear of the motor unit. You may need to remove a light lens cover in order to see it. If the light is flashing rapidly this means you have a stuck button on one of your remote controls. Take the batteries out of each remote control. When you remove the batteries from the bad remote, the light will stop flashing. This remote needs to be replaced.


If one of your neighbors remote controls is inadvertently programmed into your receiver, you door will open when their remote is activated. If this happens you will need to clear out your receiver and reprogram your remote controls. Press and hold the smart/learn button for 6 seconds or until you see the small LED light near the button turn itself off. If the above steps have been followed and the symptoms continue, there may be an electronic short in either the wall control button or the receiver logic board. In this case, remove the wall control wires from terminals 1 and 2 on the motor unit. Should the symptoms persist after the wires are removed, replace the receiver logic board. If the symptoms stop with the wall control wires removed from the motor unit, replace the wall control button, and the wires leading to the wall control button.

Here are some things to check.

Look at the LED light next to the SMART/LEARN button on rear of the motor unit. You may need to remove a light lens cover in order to see it. If the light is flashing rapidly this means you have a stuck button on one of your remote controls. Take the batteries out of each remote control. When you remove the batteries from the bad remote, the light will stop flashing. This remote needs to be replaced.


If one of your neighbors remote controls is inadvertently programmed into your receiver, you door will open when their remote is activated. If this happens you will need to clear out your receiver and reprogram your remote controls. Press and hold the smart/learn button for 6 seconds or until you see the small LED light near the button turn itself off. If the above steps have been followed and the symptoms continue, there may be an electronic short in either the wall control button or the receiver logic board. In this case, remove the wall control wires from terminals 1 and 2 on the motor unit. Should the symptoms persist after the wires are removed, replace the receiver logic board. If the symptoms stop with the wall control wires removed from the motor unit, replace the wall control button, and the wires leading to the wall control button.

In most cases, when a garage door opens or closes by itself, or when you find your door open, upon returning home, the problem is due to a short somewhere. This short is most likely to be in one of two places: either in one of your transmitters or in the wall button or its wiring.
When there is a short in your garage door transmitter, you will often find the garage door is up upon returning home, even though you know you closed the door when you left the house. A short in your transmitter causes a continues signal to be sent. As you are pulling out of the driveway the garage door closes fully and appears to stop, but as the carriage and arm run past the down limit and hits the header bracket it reverses, and the door begins to open, just as you start driving off down the road. You come home to find the garage door is up, as if someone else had opened your door. The best thing to do to troubleshoot the garage door problem is remove the batteries from your transmitters and try operating the door from the wall button. If the problem is intermittent, you may want to do this for a day or two to eliminate the transmitters as the culprit.
If the problem persists, try removing the wall button wire at the motor head to ensure it is not a short in the wire to the button, then try operating the garage door with the transmitters only. If it stops the problem, replace the wires and test the wall button. It is a process of elimination.

Press and hold for 3 seconds the button on the wall control with the lock icon. There you go.

Press and hold for 3 seconds the button on the wall control with the lock icon.

look for a smashed wire between the motor unit and the wall button.

If the wire is smashed the insulation becomes so thin that power will leak thru the insulation.

Loosen the staples with a small screwdriver and slide the wire about ½ inch to move any areas of thin insulation away from the staples.

The second thing would be a bad wall button or a remote with a sticking button.
Or a remote in someone’s purse that gets the button pushed by other stuff in the purse.

The test is to disconnect the push button wires at the power unit. If the interference stops you have located the problem. If you reconnect the wires and disconnect the wire at the wall button this will tell you if the problem is the wire or the button.

HOPE THIS HELPS