Question about Washing Machines
Balance of washing machine is not proper , Adjust front leg for balance of washing machine
Posted on Feb 12, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You could have a bad lid switch or the hinge may need to be bent to make better contact with the switch. If your washer has a oval cut out on the right side and an actuator on the rt side of the lid... the next time it acts up don't open the lid and turn the tub, simply push down on the rt side of the lid, if it starts to work replace the lid switch. If there is no hole or actuator on the rt side, then the lid switch is on the back left corner, when you open and close the lid you should hear a click. If you don't hear a click or if you hear it when the lid is almost closed you need to adjust the hinge. There are 2 screws on the back of the endcaps on the control panel remove them and flip up the control panel, use a screwdirver to pop out the spring clamps on the rt and lt sides of the top panel. approx 3-4 inches from the sides. just insert the tip into the front most part of the clamp and pry back. unclip the lid switch, and pull the cabinet forward. You should be able to bend the hinge a little so it makes better contact with the lid switch. hope this helps.
Posted on Aug 22, 2008
I would replace the belt part # 21352320 which cost about 20 bucks. Tilt the machine back when off and empty and look for a glazed belt with maybe some cracking and wear.
Posted on Oct 04, 2008
its possible the ears on the top of the drive tube have worn alowing the basket drive block to slip and not turn the clothes basket with authority, or the basket drive block has just worn from overloading and needs replacing.. is easy to verify by looking..
best of luck,
Posted on Oct 25, 2009
SOURCE: GE WSSH300 front load washing
Welcome to FixYa
It sounds like (based on your initial description) the unit is detecting an incomplete drain or an unlocked door, hence the control will not initiate a hi-speed spin. Since you've checked the drain already you can likely rule the incomplete drain a non-factor.
I know most folks will rule out the lock initially because the unit does indeed "lock", however, the lock on these machines are a two part device, a set of contacts to lock and a secondary contact to activate hi-speed spin, i.e.
If it does indeed drain fine, then here's the next place I'd direct you to investigate.
**Unplug the unit from the wall first...safety first**
It will require you to visually inspect the control board, thus needing to remove the top panel by way of taking out the screws at the back and sliding the panel back and up.
What to look for specifically is the wires with the green connector fastened to the board securely...I've seen a few vibrate loose thus preventing the unit from spinning, i.e.
If loose push it all the way in until it cannot be pulled out with a slight tug ( there are clasp's on the connector but I suspect sometimes they aren't secure when leaving the factory...just my suspicion )
If these things can be ruled out, then it is quite likely the door switch, so here's how to change/access the latch assembly...
**The door latch is likely the single most common fault (which prevent's any spin, and consequently drenching wet clothing at the end of the cycle) with the frigidaire/electrolux built washer's, ASIDE FROM PUMPS BEING OBSTRUCTED.**
You should be able to purchase one at most local brick & mortar stores or on-line part's depot's such as "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclininc.com" to name a couple. They usually sell for about $50 or so, part # 1531974 ( # at repairclinic.com ) and are relatively easy to replace. It should resemble the image here...
As for replacing said switch, There are a couple ways to access it, through the top and squeezing your arm down the front or the way I prefer, remove the front bellows spring/retainer.
1) **UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE WALL OR TURN OFF THE BREAKER.**
2) Remove the spring, get it started where the spring is located with a small screwdriver. Once you`ve got the spring/retainer off ( it comes off and on pretty easy by hand ) pull the gasket/bellows back away from the cabinet.
3) Undo the two screws holding the switch to the cabinet, pull the switch out ( there is just enough slack in the wires so don`t pull too hard ) and swap the wires from the old assembly to the new one and you`re in business.
4) To put it back together, just reverse the removal procedure. The trickiest part is the retainer. Rap the retainer around the boot leaving the spring for the last...and make sure the spring is located at the 6 o`clock position...usually. Just wherever it was initially.
Let me know if you need further assistance going forward or if my instructions are not clear.
Thank's again for visiting FixYa today. Good luck.
Posted on Mar 02, 2011
Testimonial: "thanks we tried everything else and am now ordering a door lock"
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