Behind the timer knob if you pull it out you will see a plastic horse shoe shaped pin clip that holds the knob on the shaft. could be a very cheap fix if it has broken or worn so that it does not let the shaft all the way out.
SOURCE: Washing machne problem
The help that you gave me was completely wrong. The support ring was okay. I solved my problem by buying a new timer and control knobs. The teflong 'gears' were worn out so the knobs rotated freely.
Ronald Nelson
SOURCE: My Ge wssh300gww will
It is probably a clogged pump (don't look in owners manual for info - curiously it isn't in there - just says call tech - bolocks!)
Remove 2 screw on front bottom panel.
Remove cover.
Plastic boot and pump are on right had side. Clean out - and use the change to buy a drink - celebrating the fact you didn't have to spend hundreds on a tech!
SOURCE: The start button only buzzes
start button energise a relay that latches open and provdes the current path for the very heavy draw of heaters, and motor.
the relay is dead, or dying and instead of locking open is fluttering like a doorbell (buzz buzz).
Not a repairable item, it is replaceable and not very expensive, much less than a new dryer, last one purchased was $29.99
Relays are common to many dryers, the local parts guy will have one to match if you take the dead one.
typical relay looks something like this, not all are transparent
SOURCE: My GE WDSR2080D washer won't spin or drain.
The crappy designed mexicanical lid switch device has faile, jump it out. Remove the front panel and then you can get the top off to access this problematic lid switch.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
SOURCE: My Ge wssh300gww will
As the other posters mentioned, the problem with draining is most likely caused by a clogged filter. Mine had 14 cents, 2 zip ties, and a bra wire stuck in it. Here is the process (after many hours of swearing and bleeding) so that it should be pretty easy.
The first step is to tilt the washer back so the front is 3-5 inches off the ground. Prop it up with something. To remove the front lower panel, there is 2 phillips screws under the bottom edge. Remove the screws and the panel should drop down off the pegs holding the top edge in.
Inside, attached to the drum you will see a rubber boot with an accordion sleeve which contains the filter. There is 2 green spring hose clamps (the source of many expletives) and a silver phillips screw on hose clamp. To get at the filter, you should not need to, nor do you want to, remove the green spring clamps. You will spend hours trying to get them back on.
I have attached a picture for reference. Unscrew the silver clamp (large one, closest to drum) and pull down the sleeve to get access to the filter. If you are full of water, you can slide a pan inside the machine and just pull down the edge closest to the pan to drain until the water is gone. Reach down into the accordion (gross) and grab the filter. It has a lip on it so you will need to work it out through the accordion thing, but it likely has some really gross stuff in it. Clean it out, wad it back into the boot, and reattach to the drum. Dump about 2 gallons of water into your drum to make sure you are not leaking. Switch the knob to spin cycle and hit start 2 times. It should drain the water out within a couple seconds.
Good luck!
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