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steve t Posted on Feb 10, 2019
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Roper RED4440VQ1 dryer won't dry well anymore in auto sense dry, timer moves but takes multiple attempts, when still a little damp there is no heat at all. Timed high heat works fine

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John Norton

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  • Expert 105 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 10, 2019
John Norton
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There is a humidity sensor that is going bad.

4 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1028 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 01, 2008

SOURCE: dryer shuts off properly on

ck thermal fuse top of element housing part #279816 could be timer but doubtful

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Anonymous

  • 1776 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 11, 2009

SOURCE: Roper electric dryer. Clothes not drying. Temp ok/timer not?

I would supect a faulty high limit thermostat. This small round device is mounted to a metal plate and attached to the internal ductwork. It can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Test for continuity. It should have none. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Anonymous

  • 64 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 28, 2009

SOURCE: My dryer, Roper REX5634KQ0 will only heat in the

SOUNDS LIKE ONE OF YOUR HEAT SENSERS

johnflopr

  • 33 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 18, 2014

SOURCE: My roper dryer works fine, it heats and the timer advances, it just wont shut off at the the end of a timed dry or auto dry. What do you think?

A timed drying cycle uses the timer alone to stop the drying cycle. Once it times out like an egg timer a set of contacts open up shutting off the dryer. Or a set of contacts closes to activate a relay which in turn shuts off the power.
Auto dry usually uses a moisture sensor which would do the same thing as the timer. Once it doesnt sense moisture in the load for a predetermined time it in turn triggers a relay which shuts the power off. Some auto dry cycles just use the timer alone and guess-timate the drying time by the selection.
If yours does not use a moisture sensor then most likely it is your timer/cycle switch. There may or may not be a relay involved.
Most dryers have a basic wiring diagram on the inside somewhere on one of the panels which will help.
Since yours is acting up on both cycles Im guessing you have a bad relay or connection to that relay somewhere IF it uses a moisture sensor.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/john_32f4b76dad4781c4

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Model RED4440VQ1. Why doesn't it heat in auto mode?

if works in other mode then bad board
0helpful
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Roper dryer red4440vq1 not drying after changing internal fuse, internal bias, high limit thermostat and thermal cut off and cleaning vent, element heats up to temp and cycles

If heater is heating and not drying clothes, you have a blockage in ventilation system somewhere either internally in dryer or going out from dryer to outside. Take vent off back of dryer and turn on. Is air flow strong and hot?
1helpful
1answer

My roper dryer works fine, it heats and the timer advances, it just wont shut off at the the end of a timed dry or auto dry. What do you think?

A timed drying cycle uses the timer alone to stop the drying cycle. Once it times out like an egg timer a set of contacts open up shutting off the dryer. Or a set of contacts closes to activate a relay which in turn shuts off the power.
Auto dry usually uses a moisture sensor which would do the same thing as the timer. Once it doesnt sense moisture in the load for a predetermined time it in turn triggers a relay which shuts the power off. Some auto dry cycles just use the timer alone and guess-timate the drying time by the selection.
If yours does not use a moisture sensor then most likely it is your timer/cycle switch. There may or may not be a relay involved.
Most dryers have a basic wiring diagram on the inside somewhere on one of the panels which will help.
Since yours is acting up on both cycles Im guessing you have a bad relay or connection to that relay somewhere IF it uses a moisture sensor.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/john_32f4b76dad4781c4

2helpful
1answer

Kenmore dryer 110.86864100 - Where is the moisture sensor?

Ain't no moisture sensor. This is is not an electronic sensing machine. It uses another method to determine dryness. An orange wire connects to the base of the heating element. The timer motor is driven by power from it in auto dry. The timer motor is VERY slow. Slower than most dryer timer motors.As the clothes get dryer the heat is not needed so the element is turned off by the control thermostat which is mounted next to the skinny white fuse on the blower housing. This allows for the turtle like motor on the timer to advance. Once the clothes get to the point of dryness the heater stays off way longer and the timer motor advances on over to the cool down and carry on over to the end of cycle. So the clothes won't always be dry due to factors like lint buildup in the blower housing, venting to outside and so forth. having said that my mom bought a brand new Kenmore dryer and I set it on 55 minutes timed drying. At the end of that them clothes is still damp. I then set it to auto dry high heat and that usually gets em dry. I think the main probo with this dryer is the thermostat ain't set as high as older models to keep the heat at a moderate temp so that the limits won't blow on models in apts and such. Just a theory.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

0helpful
1answer

I have a Roper Dryer mod# Red4440VQ1 ser# my3678178 My prob is the dyer will not start unless it is in no heat mode. I think it's the timer Robert

sounds like the safty is keeping the unit from working check dryer vent for lint from outside to back of unit
0helpful
1answer

I have a roper RES7646KQ2 and it will dry in the timed setting although sometimes not very well but not at all in the auto sense mode setting. Whats the most likely spot to start? I've never done this...

clean out the vent line and the dryer,unplug it,remove the two screws in front of the lint filter on top,then remove the vent line,remove the back panel,on the left side you'll see the metal duct that the lint filter slides down into,take out the four screws that hold it in if you didn't take out the two screws on top do it that holds the filter duct in from the top.clean the duct out,you should do this once a year if it's gas and once every 18 months if it's electric,put it back together and see how it runs,if you have a long vent line you can stick a leaf blower into the vent line and blow it out to the outside,after you have the dryer running go outside and make sure it's blowing air outside and the flapper is opening,if it still doesn't run in auto you could have a bad timer but clean it out first and go from there.if it's blocked with lint the dryer heat won't stay on long so the timer might not advance in the auto cycle,on timed dry it counts down like a clock but on auto the heat comes on,when it reaches temp. the heat shuts down and then the timer starts to advance a little at a time then when it calls for heat the heat comes on and the timer stops advancing,it will do this until the clothes are dry so if it's blocked the heat doesn't stay on long enough to reach temp. to advance the timer.
0helpful
1answer

I have a Whirlpool Estate dryer Model TGDS840PQ0. During auto sense, the timer will not move. But during a "time dry" session, the timer seemse to work just fine. Any ideas?

in auto the timer will not move if there is no heat,when the heat stops the timer moves,heat comes on timer doesn't move,when it's on auto make sure power is going down to the heating system,next time send model number and if it's gas or electric,good luck
3helpful
1answer

Dryer Timer dial will not move but dryer works

Will the dryer move forward in timed dry? if it does not then you need a new timer. If if will advance in timed dry but does not advance in auto mode then the high limit needs to be replaced on the heater.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

0helpful
1answer

Re: no heat and timer not moving

  If the timer is set for a auto dry cycle,  the timer won't advance if not heating.  You need to check for 220 volts at outlet.  It's possible to have only 1 110 volt circuit.  May be a bad breaker. or outlet.  If you have 220 volts at outlet,  you need to have an ohm meter to check continuity of the thermal fuses and the heater.   Access by removing rear panel.  UNPLUG FIRST!!!!!
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