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Donald McClintock Posted on Feb 09, 2019
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New oven control board for Kenmore oven, model 790.90152300.the board it says is #318185832.When everything is hooked up I get 240 volts on line 2 to ground,Line 1 gets 10.4 volts to ground.

1 Answer

Tony Marley

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  • Expert 87 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 12, 2019
Tony Marley
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From the information you have given, line 1 is shorted to ground or you have a wiring issue from the power source. You will want to be very careful as this sounds like a situation where you could easily get a shock. I would start by checking my power source with a volt meter test line 1 to line 2 = 240V, line 1 to ground = 120V, line 2 to ground = 120V. If this is all correct a good visual inspection of the oven wiring and circuit boards, if it is not correct contact an electrician. If nothing is found on the visual inspection it is time to start testing and with what you are describing the problem is probably in the main board though it could be in any of the components.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 68 Answers
  • Posted on May 03, 2008

SOURCE: Hobart HEC40 208V to a 240V source

The only difference should be the elements. Consider installing a buck-boost transformer. It may be cheaper.

The Hobart part number for the 240 volt element assembly is --
# 342170-00002. Your local Hobart can get you a price.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Apr 30, 2010

SOURCE: Kenmore stove oven does not shut off

Please contact to [email protected]
or www.paltronics.eu
I have access to tools and technology and I can usually fix those boards for 30%-60% market price Sincerely Chris

Anonymous

  • 15935 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 01, 2010

SOURCE: Kenmore oven Model 911.30169792 Control panel lights are on

It appears your ERC/CLOCK has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.





Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
^%$

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Nov 16, 2010

SOURCE: my start button on my kenmore built-in oven w/microwave won't wor

my kenmore model number 911-47699100 oven doesn't work. Everything except the oven and broil works--cleaning, all timers, start button, etc. All that happens when you push start is about every 30 seconds, two relays can be heard making and breaking kind of like a click then immediately a clack. No error codes appear. Replaced sensor but that didn't work. Any help would be appreciated.

Anonymous

  • 2605 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 15, 2011

SOURCE: ge double oven jtp56 bottom

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

It sounds like the hi-limit safety thermostat may be tripped, I haven't seen anywhere in the post dialog where this has been mentioned or that you've checked it though, have you checked ?

Unfortunately it is the non-reset type hi-limit on these ovens, though it may sub to the reset-able type when a replacement is purchased ( if the oven is indeed a JTP56 model ) It is shown here and is behind the grill between the two ovens...


macmarkus_298.jpg


It is located between the two ovens behind the grill where the lock is for the lower oven, so it is a challenge to get to, but the part #WB24K5142, It is available at "repairclinic.com" or "searspartsdirect.com" on-line parts vendor for approx. $10USD. but if you jump it out to test it and then replace it, we can get you back up and cooking.


** Please turn off the breaker before attempting any service please...safety first **


Let me know how you make out or if indeed you've already checked the hi-limit thermostat. I'll watch for your reply. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

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No stove wires hooked up to neutral

The older electric hookups for ranges used only the 2 hot wires and a ground. Somewhere on the range the neutral and the ground should be connected together. This connection is no longer accepted by the National Electrical Code, but no one is going to force you to change the wiring unless you change the range.
Where is the ground wire attached? Some ranges had a metal jumper to connect the neutral to the ground. Your oven element is 240 volt only. It does not need a neutral. The ground/neutral wire is for some of the controls and the clock.
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Not 100% sure but my guess. Most electric ovens usually bake with both elements on. The bake element(bottom) is usually on at full power with 240 volts to it. The broil element(top) is usually on at 1/2 power 120 volts to help even out the temperature. My guess is your bottom element is not coming on at all either because it is burned out or something in the control system. So what is happening is the oven is trying to heat to the set temp with only the top element keeping it on much longer than it normally should be on and burning everything. Now if you set the oven for bake and the top is on red hot, you have a control system problem something like a bad selector switch or main control board if the oven has a electronic control.
Apr 10, 2015 • Ovens
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Moved Kenmore electric oven (2 yrs old) and now neither the oven or stovetop heat up. The clock is set.

This may sound silly, but go check your circuit breaker and flip it completely off and then back on. Sometimes it does not completely trip and your clock only needs 120 volts to work which you have, but the heating coils need 240 volts. If you have an older house that has a fuse panel instead of circuit breakers you could have a blown fuse.
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the reason its not heating is because you will always have 120 volts on this red wire due to its being connected directly to one side of the in coming power source,its either that you lost the other 120 volts of power coming into the unit,a tripped breaker/fuse/etc. or the control board relay that supplies the other 120 volts to the element for a combined 240 volts needed to heat the element,if you have 240 volts to the connection to the unit then you either a bad control board or the Neutral incoming power wire could be burned off which you need to get 120 volts to operate the control board which operate the relay to supply the element with the required 240 volts to operate
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An oven uses both 120 & 220 -- actually it would be 120 volts and 240 volts or nominally, 110 volt and 220 volt.

The 120 is used for the lights. The 240 is used for the heating elements.

A 240 volt breaker (nominally 220 volt) -- supplies both 120 and 240 volts depending on how the supply is connected to the appliance.

There will be a 240 volt (nominally 220 volt) breaker in the main panel for the oven. This is two 120 volt breakers side-by-side with their toggle switches connected together with a strap across the top of the toggles.

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Kenmore Elite Gas range, model # 790.79363401 The range works but the oven does not seem to heat up. It appears to ignite, just not get hot.

Hello,

the problem should be from the heating element of your Kenmore Elite Gas range. The heating element is either defective or may have loosed contact as a result of heat coming out of the Oven. The heat coming from the oven may have melted the wire connected to the heating element which might not make it heat up.

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All the lights, display, etc. work on the oven but no heat

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if you test Bake (Yellow Wire) to L2 (Red Wire if your oven has it) and you read 240 volts while the oven is on and baking you need a new element. If you take the bake wire off and test the tab coming off the board to ground if you read 0v while the bake is on then you need a new control board
Dec 18, 2008 • Ovens
0helpful
1answer

Hobart HEC40 208V to a 240V source

The only difference should be the elements. Consider installing a buck-boost transformer. It may be cheaper.

The Hobart part number for the 240 volt element assembly is --
# 342170-00002. Your local Hobart can get you a price.
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