Adjustment Adjust cutting blade on HMR 1200

A riding lawn mower typically has a lever that adjust about 5 different heights. The manual to the mower should indicate how to adjust the ride height.

As you have not identified brand and model, useful also in finding a manual online, it is a bit challenging to describe the process, although it is actually too difficult to perform. Below the deck where the blade is attached is likely a cotter pin. If that is extracted, the blade height may be adjust with the adjustment wheel. Subsequetly, the pin is replaced. It may be necessary to adjust the "level" of the blade as if tilted, an uneven cut may result. Removal of the cotter pin may require pliers.

the maximum cutting depth of a circular saw is the distance from the teeth to the drive washer hub of the saw blade
so on a 7 1/2 saw the effective cut would be less than 3"
if your base board is thicker than that get a bigger saw
it the board is a lot less adjust the cut depth adjustment for the saw base

I am afraid that there is no adjustment for that problem. The cutting cylinders get worn down over time and are unable to cut cleanly . The head assembly can be replaced but it is cheaper to get a new shredder.

Thicker metal shows greater blade / saw adjustment errors. A simple 1/64 or 1/32 wont show much on an 1/8 thick piece of metal when cut.
Those numbers will double quickly as the cutting blade travels through thick metal.
Metal band saws seem to be trickier to adjust and fine tune because the blade seems to be twisted into the roller guides.
The downloaded manual for the saw that looked most like mine at grizzly.com helped my adjustments a lot.
The saw quality is also a factor.

If tires are the correct inflation, check the angle of the deck. The blades may need to be sharpened. There is a blade balancer you can purchase. If one blade is not as sharp as the other, it will have a little more weight on one side than the other.

Wahl has two type of blades for this AC trimmer, some come with a fix blade no adjustment,the other type of blade has adjustable blade. Wahl dose market the blade as adjustable or non adjustable. But mannyssharpening.com has the adjustable blade type were they can adjust the blade for a close cut.

Hi,
It sounds as though you may be cutting too quickly. Try decreasing the pressure you are applying to the wood.
You could also try tightening the blade more, until it PINGS when you flick it with your finger.(When it's stationary of course)
I'm assuming your guides are adjusted correctly.
JR

some of them has a key that helps both tires spin but alot of riding mowers have only one tire spin but not all it could be in the gears it's self

YOU HAVE TO OPEN DEM UP. TAKE OUT THE SCREWS ON THE TOP DEN TAKE OFF THE BLADE. ONCE YOU HAVE THE BLADE OUT THERE ARE TWO MORE LIL SCREWS UNSCREW THOSE (NOT ALL THE WAY OFF, JUST ENOUGH SO THAT THE BLADE WILL MOVE) ADJUST THE BLADE HOWEVER YOU WANT. IF YOU WANT IT CLOSE FOR A MORE DETAILED CLOSE LINE (NOT TO CLOSE AS DEY WILL CUT YOUR OR THE CLIENTS SKIN). YOU MUST TRY THEM OUT ON YOURSELF SEE IF THEY ARE TOO SHARP, IF THEY ARE TAKE THEM OFF AND ADJUST THEM AGAIN. EASIEST THING TOO DO IS USE A MIRROR, HOLD THE BLADE AGAINST THE MIRROR DEN MOVE IT AT AN 45 ANGLE DEN TIGHTEN THE SCREWS DER (BARBER TRICK).

blades has to be set precisely,only then will you get a crisp cut.