Question about GE Dryers

2 Answers

I have GE Dryer (DBVH512EF4WW) that intermittently will not engage the tumble motor -- usually after a few loads have been run. It appears to be some kind of overheating

When this last occurred, I entered diagnostic mode and ran all diagnostics as per the service manual The results were as follows: t01 = 02, t02 = E00, t03 = 045, t04 = EPP, t05 = all LEDs light, t06 = beep, t07 = Drum does not rotate, 073 temperature displayed, t08 = Drum does not rotate, 123 temperature displayed, t09 = 2.00, t10 = HI. I have replaced the thermostat, but this did not resolve the problem

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  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Apr 20, 2019

    Hi Carl, Just wanted to let you know that the dryer is now working after we replace the Dryer Control Board (Part # WE4M331). I bought the replacement board of Ebay using the link you provided. Thanks so much for your help and patience! Took a while but we got there!

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  • Master
  • 1,039 Answers

T7 outlet temp lower than T8 inlet... clerical error? Does interior light remain on when this happens? If yes, then bad door switch. Check belt switch is not intermittent. Then there's the start/pause function of the control board which means replace the control board. Suggest you rig in a bypass switch for the door switch and temporarily bypass the belt switch to isolate these and address the in/out temperature disparity before $$$ control board replacement.

Posted on Feb 12, 2019

Testimonial: "Hi Carl, Just wanted to let you know that the dryer is now working after we replace the Dryer Control Board (Part # WE4M331). I bought the replacement board of Ebay using the link you provided. Thanks so much for your help and patience! Took a while but we got there!"

  • 39 more comments 
  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 13, 2019

    Thanks, I don't think I made a clerical error, but I can try again and will check the interior door light. Is the control board even still available?

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 14, 2019

    Yes, search indicates new and used ctrl brds. More likely the door switch and I would expect an error code for the belt switch but not sure.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 14, 2019

    I ran the dryer for 15 minutes tonight and that was enough to trigger the overheating. Then I power cycled and ran through the diagnostics. Here's a video of each test:https://photos.app.goo.gl/ArLH4t3JhgZHMo...

    No error codes, no interior door light

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 14, 2019

    Your photo looks like an E1 error (7 segment A missing in display)

    This COULD explain inlet/outlet temp disparity I noted.

    Following is def of E1, E3 error from sears website for GE dryer.


    """""""""""""""""""
    Condition: The inlet thermistor (temperature sensor) is defective

    Check/Repair: The inlet thermistor on the side of the inlet air duct inside the dryer measures the temperature of heated air entering the dryer drum. Unplug the dryer and reconnect any loose wires on the inlet thermistor. Replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wires are okay, replace the inlet thermistor.
    """"""""""""""""""

    Suggest you inspect the terminal connections of the inlet thermister at both the sensor and the control board. I suspect you'll find loose connection(s). It could also be failing poor solder joints on the control board itself where thermister cable connects or further into circuitry.

    If you find no issues with connects, suggest replace thermister.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 14, 2019

    Were you able to watch the whole video? The second diagnostic test (t02) read E00 -- no error codes.

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 14, 2019

    No it didn't seem to be a vid just pic. Tried to go back through comments and fixya link not working.

    But it was an E1?

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 14, 2019

    Now I got it. Its not E1 its t1. let me review Ill get back.

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 14, 2019

    Big clue here is drum light not ON when failed.

    Drum light works when unit cold... correct? If true, then likely high limit switch (or HL circuit) is open causing unit to shut down. It won't restart till cool down... correct?

    So need to verify unit is NOT overheating and determine if high limit is really open (failing) or some other odd high limit circuit failure.

    I believe the first thing to try is diagnostic tests when unit is cold (I don't recall if you did diags when cold?). With unit cold I expect drum light, motor, and heaters will all work as described in tests.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 14, 2019

    Thanks, Carl. I ran the diagnostics this morning when the dryer was cold (see videos below). Then I realized the bulb was out in the drum. I changed the bulb and ran the diagnostics again. Note that t08 is still much higher than t07. It got up to 208 degrees. It only takes about 3-5 minutes for the dryer to overheat and lock up.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/jSZasjZhporRWb...
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/oZkwN4mVn2SFow...

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 14, 2019

    Videos help tremendous. I have to rethink because cold tests were as expected, but hot tests not sure as I expected light to not work, but temp was already down to 200 so not sure if just cooled enough.

    Try running timed cycle 30 minutes with temp set to "air only" (no heat). I expect it to not fail but need to see (sanity check for me).

    Then back to whatever cycle you choose, operate till fail, then run tests 7 and 8 with door closed to see if drum spins.

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 14, 2019

    Doh! Thermal cutout in motor run winding. So 30 minute no heat test may fail.

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 14, 2019

    Double Doh! you replace motor.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 14, 2019

    Thanks Carl. I'll try this when I get home. Is the air inlet on the back of the unit? I'd like to confirm that 200+ degree temperature reading with a separate thermometer.

  • Anonymous Feb 14, 2019

    https://www.appliancepartspros.com/drum-...

    The INLET THERMISTER, INLET SAFETY, and HI LIMT are located on top of heater housing (top rear), not sure you can get access behind drum.

    The OUTLET THERMISTER and OUTLET CONTROL BACKUP are located in the exhaust duct in bottom near motor.

    HI LIMIT (315F) interrupts motor which interrupts heater L1 feed. All the others interrupt heater L2 and not the motor.

    The 200 to 400F readings shown by t7 test are likely the residual heat inside the heater housing after a fault shutdown.

    The 30 minute "air only" operational test will isolate the door switch from other suspects. If it fails to run non-stop, then door switch is intermittent.

    If it passes, you're left with, in descending likelyhood; HITEMP or cabling, IDLER SWT (belt) or cabling, twin HEATER RELAYS(control board), then finally CONTROL BOARD.

    The other sensors and limits don't directly interrupt the motor making others less suspect.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 14, 2019

    HI Carl, I tried to run the dryer for 30 minutes on "air fluff/no heat" but it did not run continuously. It shut off and on. So I guess its the door switch?

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 15, 2019

    Most likely its the door switch. If it were mine I'd just replace the door switch. Its a high use component, relative inexpensive and not too difficult to replace.

    Let me know if it doesn't work.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 18, 2019

    We bypassed the door switch as you suggested and the dryer seems to work normally now. Will install a new door switch next week. Thanks for your help.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 20, 2019

    I spoke too soon. It seemed to work OK all weekend, but today it is stopping and not restarting when run with any of the heat settings. On the no heat setting, is still seems to stop, but can be restarted fairly quickly. Note the door switch is still bypassed, we haven't installed the new switch yet.


    Any suggestions?

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 20, 2019

    There's a possibility more than one component is failing, but seems its something common in the same series circuit. The other common seems to be temperature, which leads to the HI-LIMIT switch. You can bypass, but its the last safety, so don't leave unattended while bypassed.

    Or if easy to remove, its just a heat sensitive switch and likely will fail (open) with heat from a hair dryer. Else, bypass and repeat the cold test and if it passes, try with heat... just don't leave unattended.

    The drawing shows HI-LIMIT is mounted to heater housing top right with orange wires. Top left heater housing has thermostat and thermistor next to each other with a single orange wire between them. Just fyi.

    If still fails there's cabling or interconnects, idler switch, motor relay.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 21, 2019

    It seems like the main question is either the dryer is generating too much heat or the sensor is not reading the heat levels correctly. We can check that with an external heat measurement. But I don't know what typical/normal temperatures are for this dryer.

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 21, 2019

    HI-LIMIT 315F +-10F

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 23, 2019

    Thanks for that, Carl. I just read the whole service manual to try to understand how the dryer works.

    Could it be that the dryer is not cycling the heating element properly to maintain the desired temperature? Then this causes the temperature to get too high, triggering one of the safety thermostats to disable the motor?

    Do you know how the dryer decides when to cycle (power down) the heating element? The service manual doesn't describe this in detail. You were initially surprised that the outlet temperature (t07) was much lower than the inlet temperature (t08). That is still the case. Could this be a clue?

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 23, 2019

    The inlet temp higher than outlet temp is likely due to residual heat from the heating element when the drier shuts down. If it were overheating, likely you would notice as they get extremely hot inside the drum while running. As of now I don't believe it is overheating but I'm not there to observe.

    I thought you were going to test the high limit 315F +-10F? If high limit checks ok and the dryer is not exceeding hi-limit (less than 305F), on a TIMED cycle with or without heat the drum should run nonstop for the selected time period.

    Temperature is regulated by control board and thermistor input which in turn cycles on/off the heating element relays. I don't know the exact regulated temperature, but inlet safety is 210F +-5F so something less than that.

    The drum/fan motor has a separate relay that is interrupted by door switch, hi limit, motor thermal, belt idler pulley, or a control board cycle complete... and all interconnects thereof.

    My technique is predicated on an assumption it is not an overheat condition and is a failure of one of the previous listed components that interrupt the motor relay including the relay itself. If it is a true overheat condition, then the problem is
    not within the motor run circuit.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 24, 2019

    Thanks, Carl. I think you're right. Temperatures inside the drum don't get over 140 or so. I also just discovered that a whack to the side of the dryer will make it start again (see video). That suggest a loose connection somewhere I'm guessing?
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/8E7p2SmgX7tgnp...


  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 24, 2019

    Just the magic touch and it runs... sooooo that means the motor relay control circuit is activated and uninterrupted. If it were interrupted, by say the door switch, I expect it would not restart without press/hold the START button.

    I believe you can focus your search for poor connection(s) to the cable that runs from the motor up to the control board. If no success there, then onto the control board itself.

    On the control board, look for fractures in the solder that holds the motor cable connector and motor relay thru-hole pins on to the control board. The control board uses heavy copper traces and heavy through hole component pins. To re-flow the solder will require (preferably) a 1500 Watt inductive soldering gun and moderate amounts of solder flux and patience to get each connection hot enough to reflow the solder.

    And if you find poor connections on the motor relay, suggest you carefully inspect the heater element relays.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 24, 2019

    Thanks, Carl. Will take it apart tomorrow and report back.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Mar 02, 2019

    Hi Carl, We finally got around to taking apart the dryer again yesterday. There were no obvious loose connections or fractures. I've attached some pictures. There are some very subtle rust marks on the control board. Note the control board is encased in some kind of silicone.

    Not sure where to go from here. Open to suggestions.








  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Mar 03, 2019

    Been trying to upload two images... fixya taking forever... The motor relay is on the left edge of pictures you posted. Look for fractures (cracks) in solder connections of the motor relay and wires that go to motor. Try to get a clear close up image of solder side motor relay (minimize glare best you can).

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Mar 03, 2019

    The left side of which pic?

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Mar 03, 2019

    I said wrong. Not sure which relay is which.

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Mar 03, 2019

    right side near orange,white,black.

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Mar 03, 2019

    Try wiggle wires on component side while observing stub end on solder side. There should be zero movement of the stub. Any movement of the stub end means the solder joint has fractured.

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Mar 03, 2019

    I mean the connector stub, not the wire.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Mar 03, 2019

    Here's a google photo album with several pictures and a few videos.https://photos.app.goo.gl/FFV8tSaTgYfvfF...

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Mar 03, 2019

    I wiggled the wire and didn't see any movement on the green side.

    Perhaps we could try to replace the power board? I can't seem to find the part on any of the appliance parts websites that I typically use. Do you have any idea where I could buy one? Usually the return policies are pretty reasonable in case that isn't the problem.

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Mar 04, 2019

    Believe you need a WE4M331.https://www.geapplianceparts.com/store/p...

    New are $250...non-returnable. Not worth it IMO, and there is a small chance problem is not the control board.

    My whirlpool duet (virtually same machine) needed heater relay (stuck closed), then about a year later heater element (likely from stuck relay) and then a couple years or so, the drum rollers, and a year or so after that front/back seal and belt. Still under $150 parts, and working great.

    Don't know how many hours on your machine, but likely the above will happen. I'd go with $90 guaranteed used part e.g.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/GE-Dryer-Contro...

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Mar 04, 2019

    Before you order a new part, put it back together and see. Could be make/break the connections has solved problem. I look over pics later.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Mar 04, 2019

    Thanks, Carl. I've already re-assembled it and the problem persist. I'll order the ebay part after you've looked over the pics. Any other parts you'd recommend I order for the next round of testing? It'd be good to have everything on hand so we can get a positive diagnosis next time we take it apart.

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Mar 04, 2019

    Hard to tell, but I don't like the looks of the joint identified with arrow. If you have a 1000+ watt iron suggest you reflow all through hole leads circled. Else order replacement. The only other parts would be HI-LIMIT and door switch.

    One last test before order. If its the solder joint on the 3 position connector (arrow) if you carefully apply and maintain a lateral force to the connector while testing, if its at that connection, it likely will pass test. Safely pull the wires to one side. Or if you start dyer and tug the wires sideways and it start/stops then you have the culprit.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Apr 20, 2019

    Hi Carl, Just wanted to let you know that the dryer is now working after we replaced the Dryer Control Board (Part # WE4M331). I bought the replacement board off Ebay using the link you provided. Thanks so much for your help and patience! Took a while but we got there!

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Apr 20, 2019

    Hey, that's great... I was glad to help because you stuck it out and willing to learn.

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  • GE Master
  • 6,289 Answers

Probably a bad motor

Posted on Jan 25, 2019

  • 2 more comments 
  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Jan 25, 2019

    I wouldn't think a bad motor would fail intermittently in a temperature dependent way.

  • Chris Huff
    Chris Huff Jan 25, 2019

    Yes it runs a while , overheats, then shuts down

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 11, 2019

    OK, we replaced the motor but the problem persist.

    We carefully inspect the hot air exhaust vent and it was totally clear.

    Any other ideas on what the problem might be?

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 11, 2019

    Also note, that I edited the original post to correct the model number. I was missing a digit. The correct model number is DBVH512EF4WW. See attached pic

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 209 Answers

SOURCE: Loud Knocking

this is a collapsed drum bearing, one of the most costly of the repairs apart from the timer and motor, not normally a job for the diy man unless has an engineering background, sorry, the cost of repair depends on the age and replacement cost of a machine, a bit like a car, would you buy an engine for a 20 year old car, if you have a machine thats expensive then the repair could be worth it? stop running it you will cause more damage both to the clothes and the machine sorry (ps i am a retired appliance engineer of 20 years service)

Posted on Sep 19, 2007

SOURCE: How do you enter into the diagnostic mode

It's called "Field Service Mode"
1. Press the POWER key to turn the dryer on.
2. Press HELP. The main help screen is displayed.
3. Press and hold MY CYCLES and BACK simultaneously for 3 seconds. Press EXIT to return to the HOME screen.

Posted on Jan 04, 2008

arashid
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Maytag MAH21 - main motor won't run

Please check microswitch block door/ Best result change this microswitch on the new. If terminal is shot - longered on wire.

Rashid Moscow (arashid@yandex.ru)

Posted on Jan 25, 2008

  • 530 Answers

SOURCE: HE4T will not enter diagnostic mode

usually if it's you motor controller it should stil go into diagnostic mode. so that is probably not your problem. can you post a picture of the inside ccu board and of the door lock this would be helpful.

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Dell 8400 steady amber light, no diagnostic LEDs, high turbo fan

I have this problem with my 8400 also. After lengthly research, it appears that bad capacitors on the motherboard is the overall consensus to the cause of the problem. If you look for caps that have swelled and in some cases leaked electrolyte (a brown/tan color) you might fine your problem. You can replace the bad capacitors if you are comfortable with doing it or replace the motherboard.

Posted on May 01, 2009

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