Question about GE Dryers

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I have GE Dryer (DBVH512EF4WW) that intermittently will not engage the tumble motor -- usually after a few loads have been run. It appears to be some kind of overheating

When this last occurred, I entered diagnostic mode and ran all diagnostics as per the service manual The results were as follows: t01 = 02, t02 = E00, t03 = 045, t04 = EPP, t05 = all LEDs light, t06 = beep, t07 = Drum does not rotate, 073 temperature displayed, t08 = Drum does not rotate, 123 temperature displayed, t09 = 2.00, t10 = HI. I have replaced the thermostat, but this did not resolve the problem

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2 Answers

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  • Master
  • 475 Answers

T7 outlet temp lower than T8 inlet... clerical error? Does interior light remain on when this happens? If yes, then bad door switch. Check belt switch is not intermittent. Then there's the start/pause function of the control board which means replace the control board. Suggest you rig in a bypass switch for the door switch and temporarily bypass the belt switch to isolate these and address the in/out temperature disparity before $$$ control board replacement.

Posted on Feb 12, 2019

  • 14 more comments 
  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 13, 2019

    Thanks, I don't think I made a clerical error, but I can try again and will check the interior door light. Is the control board even still available?

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 14, 2019

    Yes, search indicates new and used ctrl brds. More likely the door switch and I would expect an error code for the belt switch but not sure.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 14, 2019

    I ran the dryer for 15 minutes tonight and that was enough to trigger the overheating. Then I power cycled and ran through the diagnostics. Here's a video of each test:https://photos.app.goo.gl/ArLH4t3JhgZHMo...

    No error codes, no interior door light

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 14, 2019

    Your photo looks like an E1 error (7 segment A missing in display)

    This COULD explain inlet/outlet temp disparity I noted.

    Following is def of E1, E3 error from sears website for GE dryer.


    """""""""""""""""""
    Condition: The inlet thermistor (temperature sensor) is defective

    Check/Repair: The inlet thermistor on the side of the inlet air duct inside the dryer measures the temperature of heated air entering the dryer drum. Unplug the dryer and reconnect any loose wires on the inlet thermistor. Replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wires are okay, replace the inlet thermistor.
    """"""""""""""""""

    Suggest you inspect the terminal connections of the inlet thermister at both the sensor and the control board. I suspect you'll find loose connection(s). It could also be failing poor solder joints on the control board itself where thermister cable connects or further into circuitry.

    If you find no issues with connects, suggest replace thermister.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 14, 2019

    Were you able to watch the whole video? The second diagnostic test (t02) read E00 -- no error codes.

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 14, 2019

    No it didn't seem to be a vid just pic. Tried to go back through comments and fixya link not working.

    But it was an E1?

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 14, 2019

    Now I got it. Its not E1 its t1. let me review Ill get back.

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 14, 2019

    Big clue here is drum light not ON when failed.

    Drum light works when unit cold... correct? If true, then likely high limit switch (or HL circuit) is open causing unit to shut down. It won't restart till cool down... correct?

    So need to verify unit is NOT overheating and determine if high limit is really open (failing) or some other odd high limit circuit failure.

    I believe the first thing to try is diagnostic tests when unit is cold (I don't recall if you did diags when cold?). With unit cold I expect drum light, motor, and heaters will all work as described in tests.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 14, 2019

    Thanks, Carl. I ran the diagnostics this morning when the dryer was cold (see videos below). Then I realized the bulb was out in the drum. I changed the bulb and ran the diagnostics again. Note that t08 is still much higher than t07. It got up to 208 degrees. It only takes about 3-5 minutes for the dryer to overheat and lock up.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/jSZasjZhporRWb...
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/oZkwN4mVn2SFow...

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 14, 2019

    Videos help tremendous. I have to rethink because cold tests were as expected, but hot tests not sure as I expected light to not work, but temp was already down to 200 so not sure if just cooled enough.

    Try running timed cycle 30 minutes with temp set to "air only" (no heat). I expect it to not fail but need to see (sanity check for me).

    Then back to whatever cycle you choose, operate till fail, then run tests 7 and 8 with door closed to see if drum spins.

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 14, 2019

    Doh! Thermal cutout in motor run winding. So 30 minute no heat test may fail.

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 14, 2019

    Double Doh! you replace motor.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 14, 2019

    Thanks Carl. I'll try this when I get home. Is the air inlet on the back of the unit? I'd like to confirm that 200+ degree temperature reading with a separate thermometer.

  • Anonymous Feb 14, 2019

    https://www.appliancepartspros.com/drum-...

    The INLET THERMISTER, INLET SAFETY, and HI LIMT are located on top of heater housing (top rear), not sure you can get access behind drum.

    The OUTLET THERMISTER and OUTLET CONTROL BACKUP are located in the exhaust duct in bottom near motor.

    HI LIMIT (315F) interrupts motor which interrupts heater L1 feed. All the others interrupt heater L2 and not the motor.

    The 200 to 400F readings shown by t7 test are likely the residual heat inside the heater housing after a fault shutdown.

    The 30 minute "air only" operational test will isolate the door switch from other suspects. If it fails to run non-stop, then door switch is intermittent.

    If it passes, you're left with, in descending likelyhood; HITEMP or cabling, IDLER SWT (belt) or cabling, twin HEATER RELAYS(control board), then finally CONTROL BOARD.

    The other sensors and limits don't directly interrupt the motor making others less suspect.

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 14, 2019

    HI Carl, I tried to run the dryer for 30 minutes on "air fluff/no heat" but it did not run continuously. It shut off and on. So I guess its the door switch?

  • Carl Rock
    Carl Rock Feb 15, 2019

    Most likely its the door switch. If it were mine I'd just replace the door switch. Its a high use component, relative inexpensive and not too difficult to replace.

    Let me know if it doesn't work.

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  • GE Master
  • 6,067 Answers

Probably a bad motor

Posted on Jan 25, 2019

  • 2 more comments 
  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Jan 25, 2019

    I wouldn't think a bad motor would fail intermittently in a temperature dependent way.

  • Chris Huff
    Chris Huff Jan 25, 2019

    Yes it runs a while , overheats, then shuts down

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 11, 2019

    OK, we replaced the motor but the problem persist.

    We carefully inspect the hot air exhaust vent and it was totally clear.

    Any other ideas on what the problem might be?

  • Adam Thomas
    Adam Thomas Feb 11, 2019

    Also note, that I edited the original post to correct the model number. I was missing a digit. The correct model number is DBVH512EF4WW. See attached pic

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Posted on Sep 22, 2014

  • 209 Answers

SOURCE: Loud Knocking

this is a collapsed drum bearing, one of the most costly of the repairs apart from the timer and motor, not normally a job for the diy man unless has an engineering background, sorry, the cost of repair depends on the age and replacement cost of a machine, a bit like a car, would you buy an engine for a 20 year old car, if you have a machine thats expensive then the repair could be worth it? stop running it you will cause more damage both to the clothes and the machine sorry (ps i am a retired appliance engineer of 20 years service)

Posted on Sep 19, 2007

SOURCE: How do you enter into the diagnostic mode

It's called "Field Service Mode"
1. Press the POWER key to turn the dryer on.
2. Press HELP. The main help screen is displayed.
3. Press and hold MY CYCLES and BACK simultaneously for 3 seconds. Press EXIT to return to the HOME screen.

Posted on Jan 04, 2008

arashid
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Maytag MAH21 - main motor won't run

Please check microswitch block door/ Best result change this microswitch on the new. If terminal is shot - longered on wire.

Rashid Moscow (arashid@yandex.ru)

Posted on Jan 25, 2008

  • 530 Answers

SOURCE: HE4T will not enter diagnostic mode

usually if it's you motor controller it should stil go into diagnostic mode. so that is probably not your problem. can you post a picture of the inside ccu board and of the door lock this would be helpful.

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Dell 8400 steady amber light, no diagnostic LEDs, high turbo fan

I have this problem with my 8400 also. After lengthly research, it appears that bad capacitors on the motherboard is the overall consensus to the cause of the problem. If you look for caps that have swelled and in some cases leaked electrolyte (a brown/tan color) you might fine your problem. You can replace the bad capacitors if you are comfortable with doing it or replace the motherboard.

Posted on May 01, 2009

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