Vintage Skilsaw model 67 worm drives, were made from 1947 to 1956. They used a 5 1/2 inch blade. The problem is with the arbor. It is a diamond shape. One can fine larger blades with the diamond arbor but I don't think anyone make an exact one for your model any longer. Two possible solutions. Buy a 5 1/2 blade with a round arbor and file out the center hole to the diamond shape. Or see if the diamond shaped saw arbor could be removed and a later model round collar be used instead. But my best advise is to get a new saw. Your old worm-drive saw is potential very dangerous. Mainly because of the old style safety guard. It is not worth losing a finger or hand. Maybe someone else know of a blade source. Good Luck. J
SOURCE: I need to know how much oil goes into a skilsaw worm drive resvr.
Haven't heard anything so I checked the Milwaukee worm drive saw and they recomment about 1/2 oz. Make sure you use an oil for a worm drive that is not foaming. Hope this helps. Also when checking oir level have the shoe set for max depth and on a flat surface remove the oil plug, when filling tip the saw on its side and fill, turn back over and allow excess oil to run out if overfilled.
SOURCE: Solution for "changing blades on a milwaukee miter saw
Have you removed the old blade yet?
The blade lock my be broken off -- it should be a button on top of the motor.
This saw has left hand threads -- turn clockwise to loosen the bolt/nut.
If you can't find the blade lock, lower the saw onto a piece of wood llike a 2x4 to keep the blade from turning.
SOURCE: I have a very old Skil circular saw Model #586.
measure from the center of the shaft to the inside of the guard, double that distance. subtract about 3/4 of an inch and this will be real close to the blade diameter that you need
SOURCE: I need the outer flange/blade clamp for my skil model 77 type 16
The replacement part is 1619X02969. And you can get it from directly from boschtoolservice.com ($3.75).
SOURCE: My Skil Worm Drive Skilsaw Blade stops when cutting
If the blade stops it could be from a loose hex bolt, flanges missing or you have a gear problem. UNPLUG tool and check the blade first. I would remove the fill screw on the gearcase and see if the oil has metal shavings in it, if it does the gears are worn allowing the blade to slip. If not I would recheck the blade. Did this suddenly happen and if so what did you do prior to your problem
Testimonial: "Yes,,David you pointed to the right part , to the Worm Drive Sleeve , which slides over the Drive Shaft , apparently it was not pusht in far enough, into the grooves ,and the lock Nut not tighten properly, and sliding out of the Grooves. It works fine now , thanks to your help. I also found out , that the lock Washer that broke in my Saw, was for the purpose , for locking the Shaft , to remove the Saw Blade, so, I cleaned it up , from the little damage it did to the Drive Wheel , and put it in the other Saw , which I used to replace in my Saw , and it is working fine too, except , I get alot of Sparks , from the Brush Rotor , will that stop, after the brushes will grind in the right position , or does that need to be replaced ? Thanks again . Hans "
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