Is hot hose connected to hot faucet and cold to cold? When you had hoses off did you make sure water was coming out when cut on at faucet? If all is well with hoses and water supply, then your water valve may be bad. It also could be a control board issue
SOURCE: G.E front load washer Mo# wbvh6240fww
The door interlock may be faulty. Try closing the door firmly or hit the door handle when the door is closed.
SOURCE: GE Washing machine cold water barely dribbles in
well the first thing i would do is take the cold line loose from the washer get a large bucket and open the cold line with the hose off and see what kind of pressure there is if very little need a plumber or in crese your well pump pressure check your screen while you have the hose off if all of this is ok id replace the washer water valves
SOURCE: Ge front load washer model WSXH208A Will not spin
Mine kept stopping mid cycle also, pouring water on the floor, then the start/pause button flashed and the door unlocked. I found the solution to clean the lint filter on the GE Adora. Go to
http://www.instructables.com/id/GE-Adora-Lint-Filter-Cleanout/?download=pdf
I just did this and my washer is now running instead of the flashing
start/pause and door unlocking. It was fairly easy. Make sure you
have towels and a flat pan to catch the water if you don't have the
machine on a riser. There may be water inside so a wet vac may be
helpful too. Once my washer finishes what was in it, I have these
funky towels to clean. You'll be very surprised what you find in the
filter! Best of luck!
SOURCE: GE washer won't fill with cold water
Cold water pipe had become frozen. FYI this model of washer has a nice feature whereas you can test each component i.e. valves, by setting the timer and reading the LED's on the front panel. Instructions are in the schematic.
SOURCE: ge front loading washer door won't unlock
I had the same problem. I didn't want to spend the money or go to the trouble of replacing the whole latch assembly with the GE latch repair kit.
I found that the plastic latch piece screwed to the door had broken and one of the two latch "fingers" was stuck in one of the latch openings on the washer. I fixed the problem by removing the broken part from the washer and drilling and countersinking very small holes (1/16" I think) in the plastic latch piece on either side of the "latch finger". I then put the broken off piece back in place and drillled pilot holes for #4 sheet metal screws in the door where the latch is located. The door liner is plastic and I think I used a 1/32 inch drill bit. I reattached the broken latch piece with two 1/2 inch stainles steel #4 flat head phillips screws from Home Depot. The screws hold the broken latch piece in place as orinilally positioned.
The repair is working fine and the door now latches like it did before the latch part broke
Or: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?image=0&part_id=2045520&pn_=WH10X10002
Same part cost $200 direct from GE
Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/8379-ge-washer-front-loader-door-wont-stay-latched.html#ixzz1LmNUKfTN
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com
Hi
If the washer won't fill you'll need to check for the water
inlet hose, the water inlet valve and the pressure/water level switch assembly.
Inspect the inlet hose coming to the washer for any blockages. If the hose is
not clogged then check the water inlet valve for any clogs, if the water will
not even fill for few seconds then certainly the water inlet valve is bad and
should be replaced. You can also use a multimeter to check continuity on inlet
valve. If you don't get any value on the multimeter then you'll need to replace
the water inlet valve assembly. However, if the valve is fine then the
pressure/water level switch assembly should be replaced. Hope this helps...
Please post back if you need more information.
Daniel
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