I have a Samsung RF28HMEDBWW. The water supply line was stretched/pulled thin where it goes into the unit at the black access cover & now leaks down the back of the unit from underneath that cover.

Heavy Light flashing indicates leakage error.
The leakage sensor on the bottom cover of the unit is detecting water in the bottom of the dishwasher. Possible parts that could be the issue are as follows: Hose Connections, sump and tub assembly, drain pump or just simply the main PCB.

tip the unit in its back and remove the bottom cover. disconnect the leakage sensor and inspect the inside of the unit carefully for ANY water leaks. Most of the time its a mouse chewing holes in the tubing for water. Otherwise check carefully and you will see the leak.

Hello, You would have to pull the unit out away from the wall and remove the rear panel down the bottom that gives you access to the compressor area. You can see if the leak is coming from either one of the water lines or if the leak is coming from the compressor drain pan. The compressor drain pan is where the water that is defrosted off the evaporator coil goes down a hole with a tube attached to it into this drain pan in which the compressor fan in the unit is supposed to evaporate the water. Try removeing the rear panel on the inside back wall of the freezer couple 1/4" screws. This will give you access to the evaporator coil. If you see any ice build up on the evaporator or under the evaporator blocking the drain then your unit would be having a defrost issue. Message me back after you check for the defrost issue and also the compressor drain pan if these are clear then you would have to diagnose if your unit had water or ice going to the door both of these water lines. I await your reply Thanks Rick
p.s if your unit does have water going to the door also assure the connection that goes into the bottom of the door is not broken or cut as well I will look up your schematic when you respond if you need me to point out any areas of this repair

could be a cap on one of the x or y sustain boards

This sound like problem with your drum unit(Open the printer and pull it out).The drum unit should be near the toner cartridges.When you pull it out the color of the drum(Big metal roller)should be all the same.If there`s a brown line around the drum you need to buy a new one.Please replay if you need any futher help!!!!

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I wasted a lot of time following the expert advice to repair my unit by taking the cover off of the main unit and using compressed air to blow out the lines. The problem turned out to be in the lower panel of the handle (4 screws to remove). The heater is a large block of aluminum with a stainless cover held on by screws. The lower nozzle of the heater was blocked by water/soap reacting with the aluminum while in storage. Blowing out the lines as recommended with air compressor just warped the stainless cover resulting in time spent flattening this back into shape.

I would recommend the following steps:
1. Make sure that fluid levels are up in both the supply water bladder and the soap dispenser.
2. Pry off the left side access cover and ensure the pump drive belt is still in position. Switch the unit on and see that the pump is spinning.
3. With the unit plugged in and the handle laying flat on the floor (using the foot release lever) , remove the clear bezzel over the red impeller, switch the unit on, and pull the trigger for soap. Liquid stream should shoot straight up past the impeller. If not the lines are plugged somewhere.
4. Unplug the electric power. Remove the four screws and remove the lower handle access cover (with the red light in it).
5. All the fluid lines are clear plastic so you can identify which have fluid movement.
6. Disconnect the line from the soap activation switch (pliers on the squeeze hose clamp) feeding the heater (large aluminum block). Blow air (with your mouth NOT the air compressor) into this line and see if fluid movement is observed in the clear plastic lines. A little tentative about soap in your mouth, use a turkey baster filled with water). I saw no movement of liquid. Nozzle exiting the heater blocked.
7. Remove this hose and use a small drill bit to twist the debris loose. You may elect to remove the heater shinny cover for better access. Gaskets are reusable. Blow thru the hoses again to assure blockage cleared.
8. Button unit up.
9. With the clear bezel off and the red rotor exposed, plug unit in, soap and water supplies in place, switch on power and pull soap trigger. Should see vertical stream. Mine was about 5 inches initially then jumped to about 10 inches high. Knew blockage was cleared.
10. During shampoo operation if soap stops (red impeller stops spinning) first check fluid levels and fill. That doesn't work, I unscrewed the clear bezel and pulled the soap trigger with the unit switched on. Less than a second vertical stream appeared every time.
11. Now you know how to fix and achieve continuous operation.
12. The unit must be thorougly cleaned before putting it away for storage to prevent the reoccurance of the blockage in the heater. After following the manufacturer's instructions, by flushing (operating the unit) with clear water in the bladder and the soap dispenser, I did one final thing. By removing the fresh water storage/collection plastic container, a black round fitting is exposed that channels the water from the bladder into the spray system. I used a length of automotive heater hose that was the same diameter as the seal on this fitting (turkey baster with bulb off will work) and blew hard while the unit was switched on and the clear bezel was off. One last big blast of water spewed from the unit. This cleared all the lines from the bladder through the pump, switch, and heater and blows it out just prior to the spray nozzles.

This is long but specific.

Not so technical, take each step as presented.

Good luck.
Plano Tx

float could be stuck . pull the float inside the dishwasher up and down then try it. could be a bad pump, or angle stop is closed or clogged. if float doesn`t work. turn the water supply line off located under the kitchen sink. make sure it`s off by turning the hot water knob on your kitchen faucet. unplug the unit also under the sink. take the bottom cover off and look for the supply line that goes into the water pump. unscrew the supply line. get a bucket and turn the water supply back on just alittle to see if tou get water coming out. if you do it`s not clogged. so it`s either the pump or it`s the timer switch 9 out of ten times it`s the timer switch. good luck.

No you will have disconnect the copper line. I would suggest that while you have it out that you replace the copper line with a braided stainless steel hose (also known as a dishwasher connector hose) If possible get a 60" or 72" hose so you can hook up the dishwasher when it is out and then push it back in with the water supply already hooked up.

Remove the cover then the access cover, then you can see inside,
the pilot light is probably out.

If out turn the gas off, then get a long match, grill lighter,or piece of paper ready to light, you should be able to see the little thin
gas line that runs inside the tank and see where it connects to,that is where you need to light, now that you see where to light, turn gas knob to pilot, and press down and at the same time light the pilot.
( blow into the pilot area before putting match inside to make sure no gas has built up inside) Hold down the knob for a minute then release, if pilot goes out try again and hold down longer, if you hold it for 3mins and it does not stay lite, the thermocouple is bad and you will have to replace it.

Yes. There will be an access cover / lid where the document goes in.

Open the cover, and you will see a thin glass, called the 'scan glass'.

Look in the middle of the glass. You will most likely find a glob of white-out, or ink on it.

Use rubbing alcohol to clean off the culprit.

Welcome to scanner / fax / copier troubleshooting 101!

This is an issue brought about by the defrost cycle. Usually, the condensate goes into a small pan under the unit where it evaporates. You will likely find that the tubes coming down from the unit to the pan underneath the box are clogged with dust. While you're there, clean the condenser coils.