F&p 3door rs610a refrigerator fault code won't reset. The resistance of the flap heater is 144 ohms.

The F2 code on the active smart model relates to an EVAP SENSOR RESISTANCE FAULT which means the resistance of the Evaporator Sensor is outside of the normal range (> 45k ohms).
In the first instance
- Check sensor connection at the controller
but if that does not resolve the problem then the sensor would need replacing.

21.3 ohms is just fine for a defrost heater. this heater is low wattage since it is an adaptive defrost. you could have problem with temperature sensor since you have replaced the board already.

tnx for using fixya,

drcool

It's the flapper heater on the door - the flap on the right side door has a low voltage heater inside it, and E20 indicates the flapper heater current is low.

You will to seek a technician to perform the following:

1. Check the connections for the flapper heater.
2. Check the resistance of the heater. If open circuit, replace
   the heater.

The N611 will flash 3 times as an AC heater fault. If your AC heaters are ohming out properly (48 ohms of resistance), then you have a bad power board. If the AC heaters are not showing around 48 ohms of resistance, replace the AC heater. It's going to be one of the two. Here is an article on it:

Norcold Fault Codes AC HE or On light flashing 3 times What to do

How to Test the Ice Mold HeaterA modular unit will have several holes in the module, each marked with a letter (similar to the one pictured below). These holes are for test probes. If there are no holes then the ice maker is a component model and the components can be tested individually.Conduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the control module heater for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "H" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multimeter should read in the range of 60 to 90 ohms.
If the heater does not pass this test, replace the ice mold heater.
How To Test the MotorConduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the control module motor for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "M" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multimeter should show continuity, with resistance possibly as high as 10,000 ohms.

The HVAC mode selections on these are controlled by an electric stepper motor that receives commands from the BCM (body control module). The BCM decides where the air door should be by looking at where the dash control input is.
Each mode selected has a different resistance level. From low resistance to high resistance: Panel, Bi-Level, Floor, Mix and Defrost, with Defrost as the highest resistance (~100K ohms). A high resistance or open circuit would probably default the system to defrost no matter what position the mode control was set to.
If the control is dirty or there is a connection issue, this could cause this problem. Does playing with the control make any difference?
The BCM can store fault codes with HVAC releated information. The system can be reset and recalibrated with a battery disconnect, this will also erase any fault codes.
I would start by looking at the dash mode control.

Good luck, i hope this helps.

check your defrost timer manually rotate it possible stock up or replace if damage check the resistance of your defrost heater if good the freezing is normal try to adjust it to the next level of adjustment then conduct observation. check also the thermodisc it is connected to sense the ice vulging of your unit that trigger the defrost heater and defrost timer observe unit.

Normally, the defrost heater can be checked for continuity rather than ohms of resistance. If the heater is o.k., then your problem may be the defrost thermostat or defrost timer. Contact an appliance service company.

yes, should be 165

Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.

Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.

The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.

A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.

The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.

There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.

The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.

If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..